Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

EA82 Dizzy re-curve a success


Recommended Posts

I had my EA82 dizzy re-curved seeing if there would be any possitive results or if it could be done. WOW, what a difference. Not in hug amounts, but pretty noticable. I have no more piston ping at all and lots more power in the lower and mid range RPMs. It also runs a heck of allot smoother. I had him set it up to have the major part of the power band run inbetween 1350 - 3000RPM, so now there is 17 degrees mech advance and 16 degrees vac advance. I wasn't looking for any raceable results just better, smoother, lower power driving. I think I got it, I am pretty happy with the outcome. I knew these Ea82 weber wagons had more power somewhere. :grin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You had the dizzy what? Re-curved?

 

 

 

Ok, tell us who have no idea what you are talking about (am I the only one?) what that is please.

 

Sure sounds very much like a proceedure many of us EA82 owners might be interested in, no?

 

Thanks,

 

Pyro

Link to comment
Share on other sites

EDITED: to correct what I ment by when the advanced spark is fired.

 

Dizzy = distributor :brow: The old kind with the rotor under the cap. :rolleyes:

 

Picture the distributor curve as a graph. The horsepower starts out low and as you increase in RPMs (gas peddle) the horsepower increases. At a certian point the horse power peaks and starts to drop off even though you are still giving it gas. You can change how the curve climbs and peaks at different RPMs by changing some parts in the dizzy.

 

All stock dizzies whether OEM or after market are set up with more advance then what is really needed. Ford the Subaru are the worst from what I gather. My Subaru dizzy had 30 degrees of just vac advance stock. This allows for the spark to be thrown way before the piston has reached TDC. By bringing the advance back closer to TDC where the compression is really at gives the car more power. This is done by adjusting the movement in the vac can and using different weighted springs. You tell the guy what your car has, how it is running now and what you want it to run like. Then they build it.

 

 

 

I am not sure what spi is. I am a carburetor guy all the way (oldschool). If the dizzy has springs and a vac can (vac advance dizzies) it can be modified. Some dizzies only have the advance springs and no vac cans(mechanical dizzies). They are also candidates.

 

They guy has done many of my 460 Ford dizzies over the years. He has always amazed me with his work. Note: as I said above, the results were pretty noticeable. I did not ask for whip lash results and did not get them. You tell him what you want and he will get it as close as he can. You can only do so much with a stock dizzy and these Subaru dizzies are a bit tough being there isn't any after market parta available.

 

 

 

G&M Honest Performance, Steve "The Shoe" Grove

Federal Way, Wa Phone253-927-8653

Link to comment
Share on other sites

$60 for mine and that has been what I was charged for all the other ones he has done.

 

This was his first Subaru distributor he has done. My car was down so I told him to keep it for a few days to see what all ways he could modify these distributor for future purposes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did a Google search, "Distributor Re-curve". Some (not a great lot, but some) interesting reading.

 

 

Apparently, there are kits availiable for for some cars. Toyota R-22 for example.

 

This whole thing sounds worth looking into further.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can get spring kits, but as far as limiting the vac adv is the hard part. The vac cans are not adjustable. Steve had to put a stop pin in it to stop the movemnet at a certian point. He did mention that these distributors are much like a Toyota.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HHHmmmm, When you advance the timing you advancing the spark to fire farther after TDC. That would move the spark forward. Crap, now I am confused :-\ .

 

When you advance the timing, you bring the spark forward, so that it fires further before top dead centre. This is to allow time for the fuel to combust.

 

Hence BTDC - before top dead centre.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you think this would help me get more power down low on the RPM range for my Brat? I know a place here in South Australia that should be able to help me.. There called SubaModz, so I'm hoping they mean it. I'm going to also look into high comp pistons, I've heard they can help with the low end power too. Can you give us more info on what was done to the dizzy? And what parts were worked on? Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you think this would help me get more power down low on the RPM range for my Brat? I know a place here in South Australia that should be able to help me.. There called SubaModz, so I'm hoping they mean it. I'm going to also look into high comp pistons, I've heard they can help with the low end power too. Can you give us more info on what was done to the dizzy? And what parts were worked on? Thanks

 

The mechanical advance springs were changed and he had to put a stop pin on the vac can to stop it from advancing so much. I was not there when he did the work and I don't know what springs he used. That is all determind by the guy and what his machine tells him and also how you want it set up.

 

I am sure it will help you out, but keep in mind that things might change when you do the pistons. You might end up having it re-curved again. Just something to keep in mind.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17+16=33deg. plus the initial setting??? for total advance..any idea as to what the initial timing is set at....when useing my "back to 0" timing light I get about 54deg when all is in..since my power range is most of the time within the 3200rpm bracket..a change in the curve (10deg less)will definitely take care of the pinging etc....

I had my EA82 dizzy re-curved seeing if there would be any possitive results or if it could be done. WOW, what a difference. Not in hug amounts, but pretty noticable. I have no more piston ping at all and lots more power in the lower and mid range RPMs. It also runs a heck of allot smoother. I had him set it up to have the major part of the power band run inbetween 1350 - 3000RPM, so now there is 17 degrees mech advance and 16 degrees vac advance. I wasn't looking for any raceable results just better, smoother, lower power driving. I think I got it, I am pretty happy with the outcome. I knew these Ea82 weber wagons had more power somewhere. :grin:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was running a 9 degrees before, now I can run a 12 degrees easy.

 

Before the work was done ALONE the vac adv was 30 degrees at full open.

 

I just did a run to the Portalnd swap and back. Man, that car runs nice now even with a 2,500 watt Onan and cart in the back. I lost a bit in MPG but I think I might had been enjoying the throttle a little.:brow:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Anyone else done this yet? I am wondering what your results are and what you went for (performance wise) when you had it done.

 

 

I really like my results. Shes not a rocket, but she runs really smooth now with better throttle responses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...