EYE_WHY Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 I have 14" pugs on my sedan and it is not lifted yet. There is no rubbage. What size you runnin'?? Any idea of tire diameter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueRidgeSE Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 according to the BFG website 215-75-15 has a diameter of 27.8 inches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 Ok, got 15x6 pugs today since I was able to score a set of four in good shape locally. If I run a 4 inch AA lift kit on my EA82 can I run 215-75-15 BFG A/T's without cutting or pounding. that's the size I'm running....you'll definately need some pounding...but not to much....and you'll need to remove your front mud flaps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrap487 Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 ok I've been reading a lot, and most of the good write ups I've come across were specifically labeled for 82-87 ea81 brats/wagons or ea82s I have an 1981 ea81 wagon and I'm doing a lot of research bout body lifts, I was originally thinking about going 6" my question is: what year/models have the same suspension/body when it comes to lifting, IE are all ea81s the same? what are the differances between ea81s and ea82s? are the body lifting processes the same? more questions to come as I come up with them... oh yeah I can probably find this by searching(which I will shortly), but if I wanted to go higher than 6", say 8-10", because it doesnt seem like there is much differance between 4" of body lift and 10" of body lift other than the length of the blocks, would I need any other serious modifications other than brake lines steering linkages etc...? who out there has WAGONS(not BRATS) that are lifted 8"-12" and have any sort of pictures? I have a hard time searching the photo gallery for some reason. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88HatchMonster Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 EA81 Wagons, Brats, Hatches, and Coupes are all the same when it comes to putting in a lift kit. The only difference is in the overall length of the body. It would be cool to see some pics of some wagons with 6"+ lifts... don't know if there are any out there. Anyway the process WILL be the same as on a brat or a hatch, so you can check out Subarubrat's excellent website: subarubrat.com for tips on building a monster size lift. Here's a direct link to the page with the original how-to on building a 6" lift: http://www.subarubrat.com/hasseylift.htm I suggest going with a 12" lift and 33" Swampers, for no other reason than because I just want to see that on a wagon Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrap487 Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 EA81 Wagons, Brats, Hatches, and Coupes are all the same when it comes to putting in a lift kit. The only difference is in the overall length of the body. It would be cool to see some pics of some wagons with 6"+ lifts... don't know if there are any out there. Anyway the process WILL be the same as on a brat or a hatch, so you can check out Subarubrat's excellent website: subarubrat.com for tips on building a monster size lift. Here's a direct link to the page with the original how-to on building a 6" lift: http://www.subarubrat.com/hasseylift.htm I suggest going with a 12" lift and 33" Swampers, for no other reason than because I just want to see that on a wagon Good Luck me too, I found subarubrats site and some others, but after seeing that there really isnt much differance between 6" and 10"-12" I'm considering going all out if I can find the money and maybe someone with a warm place to work lol. I know after I go 6" I'm gonna wanna go bigger. I'm only gonna have around $1000 initially to work w/ tho for material and tires and rims and if I go 33s I think I'll wanna do a tcase conversion and some brake work... anyone got good info on how the tcase conversion works? I've seen a whole bunch on the forums of people that do it, but I dont quite understand it because isnt the front differantial on a soob inside of the transmission, and isnt the gear reduction in before the transmission or something? I'm curious as to how that works and so far bout that my searches have come up with jack. I know I could make 6" w/ 29s work for less than 1000, 12" w/ 33s might be a bit tough, I could probably come up with another $500-1000 for this project in a month if I tried hard enough. the killer is the 33" swampers, those things get expensive QUICKLY as you get bigger. oh yeah I'd have to get my half shafts with a warranty... I'd be going through them a couple every week .... I toasted one in the rear this weekend with the stock tire size when I was messing around, whenever i put it in 4wd I get this really loud "clang clang clang" coming from the right rear untill i get up to 30mph and am going absolutly straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P K Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 ok I've been reading a lot, and ... and you need to read alot more {said respectfully}. There are several kit builders that will get you a "bolt-in" kit up to 4". SJR can get you 6" with some light fab work. Beyond that, it become$ cu$tom. oh yeah I can probably find this by searching(which I will shortly), but if I wanted to go higher than 6", say 8-10", because it doesnt seem like there is much differance between 4" of body lift and 10" of body lift other than the length of the blocks, would I need any other serious modifications other than brake lines steering linkages etc...? who out there has WAGONS(not BRATS) that are lifted 8"-12" and have any sort of pictures? I have a hard time searching the photo gallery for some reason. thanks Beyond 6", you need to consider going with front diff and divorced transfer case conversion, otherwise the lift gets counter-productive - IMHO. Few items: steering extensions get complicated, shift linkage gets real complicated (or cut the tunnel), brake line extensions, camber issues, need for subframe versus just using blocks. I don't think $1k will cover this ($600-800 in tires/wheels alone). Whoa Baby!! - My 1000th Post!!!! at least it was a productive one. r/ PK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88HatchMonster Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 Forget the tires for now. Use the budget to build it up and throw some used tires on it until you get the money for swampers. As for basic theory on the t-case conversion: It's basically a work around the limitations of the subie tranny. The subie tranny will always stay in 4 hi or 4 low so power goes to the rear driveshaft and from there into the transfer case (divorced case from a Nissan or Samurai). The front axle stubs in your tranny are left to spin. If you put the subie range lever into front wheel drive you go nowhere. The transfercase now sends power to your rear diff, and in the front you mount another rear diff on your engine crossmember to drive the front wheels. The engine is mounted higher up on custom brackets. Also note that you will have a rear wheel drive vehicle now when you do not have the T-Case in 4WD mode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrap487 Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 yeah... i know I do thats why I'm here. I'm not gonna do a bolt on kit I'm gonna go totally custom. ok so with a divorced tcase you have to have a differant front differantial, that answers a whole lot. I might just stick to 6" but 8" doesnt seem far away, and once I get there 10-12 doesnt seem far away but it adds up i guess. anyways my initial question was answered, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrap487 Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 Forget the tires for now. Use the budget to build it up and throw some used tires on it until you get the money for swampers. As for basic theory on the t-case conversion: It's basically a work around the limitations of the subie tranny. The subie tranny will always stay in 4 hi or 4 low so power goes to the rear driveshaft and from there into the transfer case (divorced case from a Nissan or Samurai). The front axle stubs in your tranny are left to spin. If you put the subie range lever into front wheel drive you go nowhere. The transfercase now sends power to your rear diff, and in the front you mount another rear diff on your engine crossmember to drive the front wheels. The engine is mounted higher up on custom brackets. Also note that you will have a rear wheel drive vehicle now when you do not have the T-Case in 4WD mode. cool thanks... me gonna go think for a while and search Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 also keep in mind that tires are expensive, and get more expensive at an alarming rate as the size get's bigger....if you're including wheels and tires, $1000 will barely get you 4" You'd be suprised how fast expenses rack up when building up a car also....in my experience....reman'd axles aren't worth the warranty.....junkyard OEM ones are worth the money 2000 times over! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrap487 Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 also keep in mind that tires are expensive, and get more expensive at an alarming rate as the size get's bigger....if you're including wheels and tires, $1000 will barely get you 4" You'd be suprised how fast expenses rack up when building up a car also....in my experience....reman'd axles aren't worth the warranty.....junkyard OEM ones are worth the money 2000 times over! oh yeah I already know.. I had a cheap cherokee, that was a mistake. are you sure junkyard axles are any good? especially in anything thats been sitting for quite a while, seems like most of them would be pretty bad even if I could get 10 junkyard axles for the price of 1 reman, least everyone after the first reman would be free. 33s and 12" is not possible for less than 1000 unless I can get all the parts and materials other than tires given to me virtually for free. i figure if I can get the major stuff taken care of first, the little smaller things I can peice together individually. first I need to make my lift and get tires and wheels out of the way, then get a tcase and diff if I choose, and then do rear disc conv, drill hubs, trimming, brake lines, shift linkages, so on and so forth... harder to get big chunks of money later down the road than smaller chunks of money, considering I get $10/hr and little work this time of year. anyways... am I allowed to hijack my own thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 agreed with junkyard axles. the OEM axles are very resilient, i've never broken one in 100,000's of miles of driving. but i've had reman'ed axles blow into bits. i've driven the stock OEM axles 50,000 miles with broken boots and clicking like hell...and still never broke. i retire them once they start clicking while i'm driving straight....i figure that's a good time to get new ones on there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 ooohhh the process...........1000 bucks huh?stick to your list....you do have a list right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroadbryan Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 ok i should be able to buy a lift next month. but im not sure whos lift to buy? what are the pro and cons? i want a 4inch lift on my 83 wagon. i have heard BYB are great and been making them the longest. i have looked at AA webpage and saw them compairing for their lift to the BYB lift and im a little confused on which might be better. are there any other people/companies that make the lift kits? greatful for all info you may have for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezapar Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 ok i should be able to buy a lift next month. but im not sure whos lift to buy? what are the pro and cons? i want a 4inch lift on my 83 wagon. i have heard BYB are great and been making them the longest. i have looked at AA webpage and saw them compairing for their lift to the BYB lift and im a little confused on which might be better. are there any other people/companies that make the lift kits? greatful for all info you may have for me DO a search. Or at least read the contents of the front page. ie: the FAQ at the top, or the thread for those of you who missed the FAQ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 oh yeah I already know.. I had a cheap cherokee, that was a mistake. are you sure junkyard axles are any good? especially in anything thats been sitting for quite a while, seems like most of them would be pretty bad even if I could get 10 junkyard axles for the price of 1 reman, least everyone after the first reman would be free yea, but in order to know you're not going to get stuck on the trail (trust me ) you've got to have 4 spare reman'd with you (I wouldn't feel safe, anymore, with any less than 2 front and 2 back), I had a reman'd axle last me 2 hours of wheeling....and I replaced it with an OEM one off a loyale that got parted, it came apart much later the next day....I put it together, and used it for a couple months, replaced the boot, still using it, with hundreds of miles offroad (not exaggerating either). I feel safe on my OEM ones with zero spares. I've been left in the woods on many occasions from reman'd ones the drawback of JY axles....they can be a b*&^# to get off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrap487 Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 aw man, my stuff wasnt in the faq and it got move here anyways, my original question about compatibility between ea81s from differant years and ea82s and such should go into the faq... about suspension/body lifting process Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreedraffs Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 I have a '92 Loyale and and I'd like to make it an offroad car. I looked at the backyard boys lift kit for EA82 and I'm wondering if the car would need any other work (shocks, tie rod, shafts etc.) with a BYB lift kit installed (either 3 or 4 inches). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 I have a '92 Loyale and and I'd like to make it an offroad car. I looked at the backyard boys lift kit for EA82 and I'm wondering if the car would need any other work (shocks, tie rod, shafts etc.) with a BYB lift kit installed (either 3 or 4 inches). nope, you don't need anything else. you should put wheels and tires on it (otherwise the lift is quite pointless). other than that, everything is optional I'd also look into a Dual-Range 4WD tranny, I would have a heck of a time doing what I do in my car if I was in 4Hi all the time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougl4422 Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 Hi everyone Ive been a fan of subarus for a long time and i recently bought an 03 Outback VDC 3.0 H6 sedan. I dont think i want to take it offroad but i was considering selling my old chevy truck and buying an older Subaru to modify. I don't have alot of money to spend and i dont think ready to get into any hardcore offroading. I dont really want to get into any major drivetrain modifications. Does anyone have any suggestions about where i should start? What model should i look for? Should i try to get a manual of automatic? Can i put a small lift on it and get bigger tires without messing up the stock drivetrain? Does anyone know of a shop in southeastern Michigan that has experience working on subarus in this way? Im looking forward to getting some input on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 look at the faq's at the top of the page and that will get you started.....just search around and you will find a plethora of info...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrap487 Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 what he said well I've only had experiance with my ea81 wagon, but from what i've read, an ea81 w/ the manual 4 speed d/r transmission would be ideal, probably a hatch. the ea81 is a very solid engine, and the hatch has a shorter wheelbase, and if you plan on going with oversize tires the 4 speed transmission is a bit tougher and has more friendly gearing. you shouldnt encounter much for drivetrain problems with body lift. but if you try getting a suspension lift and/or going with large tires you may end up eating through axles more often Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dome24 Posted January 11, 2006 Share Posted January 11, 2006 Ok so this is my first post cause ive only had my Sooby for less than two weeks so please be gentle. Ive got a 97 Brighton Coupe and really really want to lift it, ive been driving my lifted Tacoma for the past 5 years and am looking for a new toy. I dont' want anything wild just a few inches. I stumbled accross this site through my Tacoma fourm, and everything looks great, endless possibiltys with older sub's but i have yet to see anything on my car. I have seen a 97 Outback wagon but no impreza coupe. do i have the same suspension set up as the outback or am i better off turning it into a street car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueRidgeSE Posted January 11, 2006 Share Posted January 11, 2006 If you are only looking for a few inches why not look into some Forester suspension. Nice thing about subes is that alot of parts from others will work. That would be a pretty cheap solution for you IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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