subaru overheating

[bk2]

I have read what I consider to be a lot of dubious advice on this thread. So pardon me if I offend anyone, but that is not my intention.

 

It sounds like you have a serious overheating issue, not a minor "its not quite where it should be" issue. So... a 180deg F t-stat will not work any better than a 192-195deg F t-stat. In a normally functioning cooling system, all the 180degF one will do is cause your car to run cooler (and at the wrong times) than it was designed to do. Under load, all it will buy you is maybe one extra minute before the temperature climbs into the hot zone. It will NOT make your car run cooler under a load that would make the car overheat with a 195degF t-stat.

 

However, T-stats do fail to function properly, even when relatively new, so a new t-stat is something to consider.

 

Antifreeze/water ratios will NOT make a significant difference in the cooling ability of your car. If your cooling system is in perfect working order you could run 100% glycol and still not raise the temp above "normal". In a marginal system it might make a 10-15% difference.

 

Don't sweat the small things right now.

 

Weight of oil will NOT turn your car into an instant mosquito fogger. If it wasn't putting out oil smoke before the oil was changed than the viscosity of the new oil should not make a noticeable difference.

 

It sounds like you were not sure if the "smoke" was oil-smoke or steam. If this is correct, figure it out. Oil smoke is slightly bluish and does not dissipate except by dilution with air/wind, while steam will dissipate "into thin air". Oil smoke smells oily, steam smells... well, steamy, maybe sweet with antifreeze.

 

Back to your original problem: I think that you typed that you had only one fan? If so, what type (electric or engine driven), and which side (driver's passenger's) of radiator? If this is so, then bring your car up to operating temperature, and with the car running use the palm of your hand (or whatever is good for feeling temp... maybe a friends hand ) feel from top to bottom of the radiator; the tubes are horizontal and they seem to plug in groups either in the top, bottom, middle, or some combination.

 

If you have 2 fans and if your car does NOT have A/C, you should be able to feel the front surface of the radiator. While the car is at operating temperature and running check the radiator top to bottom.

 

If you have 2 fans and if your car has A/C, then I would recommend removing the (an?) electric fan, bringing the car up to operating temperature, and with the car running check the radiator top to bottom.

 

My original guess from afar is that your radiator is plugged. Plugging is a very common problem; I just replaced my wife's radiator, and will need to do the same with an XT I recently bought. But the recent mention of smoke/steam might indicate something worse. I do think that if you haven't already done so that you check the water pump belt for proper adjustment, and check the hoses for general condition.

 

When looking at a major problem, concentrate on major things. The likelyhood that 4 little problems came together to cause a big problem is small compared to one big problem happening. ("Occam's Razor" comes to mind...)

 

***************************************

 

I am not losing any antifreeze.....but now I am worried.....so first thing I do before I put a new rad in is get the vehicle checked for HG. Tomorrow, I will have time to flush this old girl all day if I have too.....back forward...etc.....today I ran it and checked in the front of the rad....and yes there are some inconsistencies which lead to your question....is the rad plugged....so tomorrow will see if the problem can be solved.

 

I appreciate the help. As I requested in my first message I was trying to obtain a list.....1, 2, 3, ....etc on the procedures to take.

 

Also today....I checked out the rad thermostat for controling the fan.....when the fan turned on....the fan was running slower than when I bypassed the sensor......so for the time being I have hooked it up as recommended by one great subaru lover here....... turns on with the key.... this will help until I nip this prob in the but... it is definetely not over heating when iddling anymore.

 

Q: What is the best way to flush a subaru. I do have a flush system hooked up on one of the heatercore lines. I imagine take therostat out....and completely drain everything???? a step by step instruction would be appreciated or a site where I can follow the proper steps....do get hard to clean stuff out of the rad....thanks.

 

If the car passes the HG test......and compression test....then a rad will be in order.....

 

And NorthWet, what you say is exactly correct!!!!

 

ps -if I can get one more year out of this subaru -I will be the happiest man alive....)) thanks again everyone.

[bk2]

If it's just burning alot of oil, that sounds like worn rings and/or valve guides. You might try runniing half 10w-40 and half 20w-50. I did that to my Suby B4 it died and dropped from 2 qts a fillup to 1 qt a fillup. Justa way to help decreace your oil consumsion.

On your cooling system, have you tried doing a full coolant flush? Might pick up one of those cooling flush kits from wal-mart or your favorite autoparts store. Easy to install. That might loosen up any junk on the cooling system. Also would swap out the t-stat with a Subaru t-stat. Do you notice any bubbles comming up from the radiator while the engine is running? THat could indicate a toast Head gasket. Other signs are oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil.

Just some other ideas 4 ya.

 

 

________________________

 

Will try the big flush tomorrow morning....had to cancel weekend with my kids.....X sort of hopping over that....so have to get the old girl hopping soon.

 

There were no bubbles comming up from the rad while the rad cap was off and the engine running...... only a few pieces of scaley stuff.....yep need a flush... What is the best way to thoroughly flush the system??? I have a flush kit attached to the heatercore hose.

 

I have checked the oil and there is no water in the oil.....it just looks like oil to me...is there a site where I can see pics..?

 

Great ideas thank you very much.

 

[bk2]

um... sounds like your head gasket blew from overheating or you have crappy oil in it - I am thinking poor oil, b/c it started doing it after the oil change (makes sense) - Castrol GTX is a good economy oil, Purolator, Wix and OEM are preferable filters - Frams have a nasty habbit of disintigrating and destroying your engine - if you have under 200k miles on it, I would be surprized if you had blown the head gasket - a compression test will tell all - don't chuck it yet!!

 

what antifreeze mixture were you running? - I assume 50/50? - don't go more than about 60% antifreeze or else the engine will not cool properly (antifreeze does not transfer heat well) - the thermoswitch can be bypassed with a small piece of wire and two male blade connectors - makes fan run all the time the ignition is in on/acc - I did that a while back w/ no cooling probs since - replace the thermostat (if you haven't already) with an OEM one - aftermarket ones are literally garbage - they WILL cause your engine to overheat - had a nasty time with a CarQuest one ...

 

generally speaking, OEM parts are WORTH THE MONEY, even if they can be expensive, because aftermarket ones do not last nearly as long, and can damage your car

 

 

I by passed my fan thermosensor on the rad -even runs faster this way too. I does run cooler.....It might just do the job for the time being but when summertime comes with those 40+ I do not know......

 

thankyou very much for your help

[bk2]

I have read what I consider to be a lot of dubious advice on this thread. So pardon me if I offend anyone, but that is not my intention.

 

It sounds like you have a serious overheating issue, not a minor "its not quite where it should be" issue. So... a 180deg F t-stat will not work any better than a 192-195deg F t-stat. In a normally functioning cooling system, all the 180degF one will do is cause your car to run cooler (and at the wrong times) than it was designed to do. Under load, all it will buy you is maybe one extra minute before the temperature climbs into the hot zone. It will NOT make your car run cooler under a load that would make the car overheat with a 195degF t-stat.

 

However, T-stats do fail to function properly, even when relatively new, so a new t-stat is something to consider.

 

Antifreeze/water ratios will NOT make a significant difference in the cooling ability of your car. If your cooling system is in perfect working order you could run 100% glycol and still not raise the temp above "normal". In a marginal system it might make a 10-15% difference.

 

Don't sweat the small things right now.

 

Weight of oil will NOT turn your car into an instant mosquito fogger. If it wasn't putting out oil smoke before the oil was changed than the viscosity of the new oil should not make a noticeable difference.

 

It sounds like you were not sure if the "smoke" was oil-smoke or steam. If this is correct, figure it out. Oil smoke is slightly bluish and does not dissipate except by dilution with air/wind, while steam will dissipate "into thin air". Oil smoke smells oily, steam smells... well, steamy, maybe sweet with antifreeze.

 

Back to your original problem: I think that you typed that you had only one fan? If so, what type (electric or engine driven), and which side (driver's passenger's) of radiator? If this is so, then bring your car up to operating temperature, and with the car running use the palm of your hand (or whatever is good for feeling temp... maybe a friends hand ) feel from top to bottom of the radiator; the tubes are horizontal and they seem to plug in groups either in the top, bottom, middle, or some combination.

 

If you have 2 fans and if your car does NOT have A/C, you should be able to feel the front surface of the radiator. While the car is at operating temperature and running check the radiator top to bottom.

 

If you have 2 fans and if your car has A/C, then I would recommend removing the (an?) electric fan, bringing the car up to operating temperature, and with the car running check the radiator top to bottom.

 

My original guess from afar is that your radiator is plugged. Plugging is a very common problem; I just replaced my wife's radiator, and will need to do the same with an XT I recently bought. But the recent mention of smoke/steam might indicate something worse. I do think that if you haven't already done so that you check the water pump belt for proper adjustment, and check the hoses for general condition.

 

When looking at a major problem, concentrate on major things. The likelyhood that 4 little problems came together to cause a big problem is small compared to one big problem happening. ("Occam's Razor" comes to mind...)

 

just wanted to clear up the color thing..... when I changed the oil.....I noticed when I first started it up in the morning....it would make tiny ticking noises....???lifters...????I would stop the motor and restart and it would be quiet. This is actually when I first noticed the exhaust.....inside the car it smelled just like oil....as for the color you were right....I never knew how blue was blue.....Frank who has done some mechanical stuff said it was blue smoke....buring oil....I thought it was whitish blue....and with the wind it would be pretty heavy....swirly...lol....

 

I hope that helps.... thanks for the help.

[NorthWet]

Please don't expect any miracles from flushing your radiator. Usually, most of the plugging comes from material that has accreted onto the tubes rather than just casually floating into the tubes. In the old days of copper-and-brass radiators (I am assuming that yours is original equipment plastic tank) a radiator shop would take off a tank and "rod" the core. Now days we just toss it and buy a new one. Also, in the old days radiator flushes were made with oxalic acid which could dissolve some of the mineral deposits, but at least in the USA these are no longer available, with their replacements just being a detergent.

 

If you are getting oil smoke just on startup, and not getting excessive oil consumption (1L/1300Km???), I would not worry much about it. It might just be a PCV system that could use some cleaning/replacing.

 

Good to hear that the electric fan is working better.

[bk2]

Please don't expect any miracles from flushing your radiator. Usually, most of the plugging comes from material that has accreted onto the tubes rather than just casually floating into the tubes. In the old days of copper-and-brass radiators (I am assuming that yours is original equipment plastic tank) a radiator shop would take off a tank and "rod" the core. Now days we just toss it and buy a new one. Also, in the old days radiator flushes were made with oxalic acid which could dissolve some of the mineral deposits, but at least in the USA these are no longer available, with their replacements just being a detergent.

 

If you are getting oil smoke just on startup, and not getting excessive oil consumption (1L/1300Km???), I would not worry much about it. It might just be a PCV system that could use some cleaning/replacing.

 

Good to hear that the electric fan is working better.

 

___________________

 

Thanks for the info.... you are definitely right about the rad.......)) I flushed and flushed all the way to toronto ontario....and backflushed.....she is as clean as she will ever get.....and yes some junk came out...

 

As for the hot and warm spots I do have some of those.... I will look for another rad at the jy....lol.....as I do not feel that replacing the rad is going to solve this problem......

 

Of concern is when the vehicle was up to temp...and going up....the upper rad hose (thermostat one) was fairly easy to pinch.....I do not know if it should be firmer or what.....but I feel a new thermostat is in order....

 

Concerning thermostats...could I use a chevy 350 small block...the 54mm one which I can get here in my home town instead of driving to the city? I have another thermostat in the trunk......could I test it by just putting it on the stove in some water and heating it up...and if it completely opens it is okay???

 

Another question is ........ the previous owner has a longer than normal vacumn hose hooked up to the vacumn advance on the distributor...if anyone has a schematic on the vacumn hoses that would be appreciated -I feel it is the vacumn advance or distributor.....

 

so will continue with the thermostat....rad....

 

thanks for the help....

[bbbs53]

When I bought my '82 Brat in San Diego, I had to drive it back to almost Canada. I started up the Grapevine, it started to overheat. This was just after sun-up. I hot wired both fans, since it has AC, and it helped keep it just under red line. I babied it back to north Idaho by driving all night and not durring the heat of the day. There were several other interesting things that happened like a rear cv going out, but I digress. As soon as I got it home, I looked at the very spot you are looking at. The consenses at the time was the radiator was bad, they are not the best design and for a car that will do 300,000, they don't go that far. I replaced it and it has never gone over a third, or to the lower range line, where it stays. The really good part is, they can be had for under a hundred dollars. A junk yard radiator is just that, junk. I don't know how well your heater works, mine needed a core, another common problem, it was almost the price of the radiator. Now for the part that stinks, the valve for the heater core is a Subaru only part, and they are not to well designed. I have yet to see an older one that wasn't leaking from the back of the valve. They are more than the cost of the radiator. My money is on the radiator being the cause of the heating problem. However, running it hot for all that time is beginning to sound like other damage has occured, the smoking etc. And in my part of the world, there is no such thing as a good 400.00 dollar Subaru. The time to look into problems with an alloy engine is at there first sign, or trouble is waiting around the corner. Best of luck, what part of BC are you in? I am down near Creston. Parts a plenty, just ask.

[bk2]

When I bought my '82 Brat in San Diego, I had to drive it back to almost Canada. I started up the Grapevine, it started to overheat. This was just after sun-up. I hot wired both fans, since it has AC, and it helped keep it just under red line. I babied it back to north Idaho by driving all night and not durring the heat of the day. There were several other interesting things that happened like a rear cv going out, but I digress. As soon as I got it home, I looked at the very spot you are looking at. The consenses at the time was the radiator was bad, they are not the best design and for a car that will do 300,000, they don't go that far. I replaced it and it has never gone over a third, or to the lower range line, where it stays. The really good part is, they can be had for under a hundred dollars. A junk yard radiator is just that, junk. I don't know how well your heater works, mine needed a core, another common problem, it was almost the price of the radiator. Now for the part that stinks, the valve for the heater core is a Subaru only part, and they are not to well designed. I have yet to see an older one that wasn't leaking from the back of the valve. They are more than the cost of the radiator. My money is on the radiator being the cause of the heating problem. However, running it hot for all that time is beginning to sound like other damage has occured, the smoking etc. And in my part of the world, there is no such thing as a good 400.00 dollar Subaru. The time to look into problems with an alloy engine is at there first sign, or trouble is waiting around the corner. Best of luck, what part of BC are you in? I am down near Creston. Parts a plenty, just ask.

 

 

lol....love your story....hot wiring 2 fans....yes that is definitely me too.....loll....actually she is running in the half to 3/4 range until the one hill...then goes almost to the red.....it might be killing it......or starting a hg prob.....every trip in this high range for 30 seconds max......I know even that could blow it up..

 

thanks for the advice on the rad...... 130 bucks from canadian tire on sale....

 

as for the smoking and all......it seemed I put too much hoil in it.....fram filter and cheap formula 1 canadian tire stuff......put some thicker stuff in it and it does not smoke anymore... but for how long eh???lol.....

 

what is the best type of rad to buy..... ?

 

As for this subaru....so far it has been a good little car...I got +70,000km out of it for $400 ......now if one would invest $4000 in a car to reap the same benefits you would have to get +700,000km out of it.....I do believe out of anycar that is not too bad...???

 

I do believe I have to sink some money into it.......or find an alternative vehicle...no suburus around here that are cheap.....lol.....they sort of grow on you you know....

 

again thanks for the help....

[bbbs53]

lol....love your story....hot wiring 2 fans....yes that is definitely me too.....loll....actually she is running in the half to 3/4 range until the one hill...then goes almost to the red.....it might be killing it......or starting a hg prob.....every trip in this high range for 30 seconds max......I know even that could blow it up..

 

thanks for the advice on the rad...... 130 bucks from canadian tire on sale....

 

as for the smoking and all......it seemed I put too much hoil in it.....fram filter and cheap formula 1 canadian tire stuff......put some thicker stuff in it and it does not smoke anymore... but for how long eh???lol.....

 

what is the best type of rad to buy..... ?

Google it and find the cheapest one. I found one for under a hundred delivered. I have put too much oil in a car and had the same results! It was good oil to boot! LOL!!! I Imagine that yours is plugged or if not, and this is what makes the feel test not easy, restricted. It could still feel hot and not be doing its job. My heater core felt hot to the touch, real hot, but wasn't putting out any heat. Then when I changed it using the cut the hole in the side of the box trick, the valve was leaking miserably. I kept it as a souviner. I now have a truck that barely turns on the fan and puts out enough heat to run you out of the cab. There is something about all alloy engines that makes a sludge that plugs cores and radiators. Sooner or later if you keep running these cars, you are going to run into the problem. I have changed cores on 3 Brats and Radiators on 2. The radiator guy here in town won't touch them because they come back mad that it didn't fix them. Best of luck on getting the old girl to fly!

[bk2]

Google it and find the cheapest one. I found one for under a hundred delivered. I have put too much oil in a car and had the same results! It was good oil to boot! LOL!!! I Imagine that yours is plugged or if not, and this is what makes the feel test not easy, restricted. It could still feel hot and not be doing its job. My heater core felt hot to the touch, real hot, but wasn't putting out any heat. Then when I changed it using the cut the hole in the side of the box trick, the valve was leaking miserably. I kept it as a souviner. I now have a truck that barely turns on the fan and puts out enough heat to run you out of the cab. There is something about all alloy engines that makes a sludge that plugs cores and radiators. Sooner or later if you keep running these cars, you are going to run into the problem. I have changed cores on 3 Brats and Radiators on 2. The radiator guy here in town won't touch them because they come back mad that it didn't fix them. Best of luck on getting the old girl to fly!

 

will do that .....I will get a google rad....hehehe..... will do the search.....)

 

see I am at the point -where so many have been......commit to the $100 dollar rad......then the water pump.....oiler, then the wires, timing belts.....distributor, then realize you could have come ahead with a new beater for 1/2 the price......and this body is falling apart too.....chasis....needs a good welding.....lol.... and the old girl screams when you leave the junk yard -her sons and daughters miss her....lol....

 

0:)

[bk2]

will do that .....I will get a google rad....hehehe..... will do the search.....)

 

see I am at the point -where so many have been......commit to the $100 dollar rad......then the water pump.....oiler, then the wires, timing belts.....distributor, then realize you could have come ahead with a new beater for 1/2 the price......and this body is falling apart too.....chasis....needs a good welding.....lol.... and the old girl screams when you leave the junk yard -her sons and daughters miss her....lol....

 

0:)

 

*********************************************

 

Problem solved

Well it must of been the extensive flushing that finally made the symptoms recognizable....... when the rad cap is off...... bubbles..... tiny and big....

 

So I might say the diagnosis is HG.....???

[karinvail]

*********************************************

 

Problem solved

 

Well it must of been the extensive flushing that finally made the symptoms recognizable....... when the rad cap is off...... bubbles..... tiny and big....

 

So I might say the diagnosis is HG.....???

 

Air in the cooling system can also do that - I've been ''burping'' mine because it had air in the heater core (I could hear it gurgling) - I think I almost have all the air out now, and I had to add almost a half gallon to the system (and I don't have a head gasket problem).

[bk2]

Air in the cooling system can also do that - I've been ''burping'' mine because it had air in the heater core (I could hear it gurgling) - I think I almost have all the air out now, and I had to add almost a half gallon to the system (and I don't have a head gasket problem).

 

 

so what your saying is I might have some air in my cooling system and if I burp it.....and get all the air out I might be okay?

 

tink I will take it to a pro to do a HG test......is that the proper course of action?

[85Sub4WD]

so what your saying is I might have some air in my cooling system and if I burp it.....and get all the air out I might be okay?

yep - I agree with her too - if you flushed the radiator out, chances are that it is just air in the system, park it so the nose is as high as possible, and flex the top radiator hose/bounce up and down on the front end with the engine off, add coolant, start it, and let it idle, still bouncing the front bumper up and down (not too violently) - add coolant as the bubbles work their way to the top, try this for a while - if after some time the bubbles do not dimish/cease, I would rev check for steam out the back end, and for wet plugs (from coolant) - if you find them, then you have a blown head gasket

 

a compression test will also tell you a lot

[85Sub4WD]

ahh ... double post

[bk2]

Air in the cooling system can also do that - I've been ''burping'' mine because it had air in the heater core (I could hear it gurgling) - I think I almost have all the air out now, and I had to add almost a half gallon to the system (and I don't have a head gasket problem).

 

seems I am always burping this baby.....lol.....

 

yes I will keep on doing that...thanks.....

[pyromanic]

I don't mean to butt in, but since "overheating" is being dicussed, I have realized that I do not know at what temp range these engines should properly be running at? (no stock guage, just full sweep mechanical)

 

Mine runs between 180 and 190, very little fluctuation. What is proper?

 

Pyro

 

(PS I'm trying to learn what "hyjacking" is, so as to not do it. {I'm new to internet forums somwhat} Is that what I just did? Somebody tell me so I can knock it off

 

PYro

[KStretch55]

lol...yes I did miss your response...

 

I will put some of that 20W-50 in it.... Castrol....as someone said is good...hopefully solves that smoking problem I have never had that before...hope it isn't from parking and running the vehicle on my steep driveway while I was burping the coolant...

 

Also will be checking to make sure of the coolant mix too.

 

Will check out the rad again -one of the experts said to take off the fan and make sure everything is warm/hot with no cold spots. Rads are on sale here for 130 bucks at canadian tire...might not be the best eh???

 

Subaru thermostats are 40 bucks here too....wow very expensive as compared to 10 bucks.

 

 

Also a person told me about the flushing kit..... I put one of those on last year for a flush......it was warm last year too but never has overheated or touched the red.....don't know if the previous owner overheated it though.

 

I believe there is another way to test out a HG.... take a plug out and put some pressure in it? and if the coolant bubbles there is a leak....how much pressure is enough??? I was just wondering.

 

thanks again for the help everyone.....it is very depressing when a person is trying to save their lifeline.... This is not a Chevy....it is a Subaru...

 

WOW!! $40 for a thermostat!! That's seems outrageous, even with the Canadian/American $ conversion. I just paid $9.49 US for the premium one at Schucks. Sounds like you're getting the Gold plated Yukon Territory price or something.

[bk2]

WOW!! $40 for a thermostat!! That's seems outrageous, even with the Canadian/American $ conversion. I just paid $9.49 US for the premium one at Schucks. Sounds like you're getting the Gold plated Yukon Territory price or something.

 

you are totally right...... what we do up here in Canada.....at least us subaru nuts...when a thermostat goes we use the gold for our fillings.

 

1 3/8 bit with drill.....a broken thermometer for mercury....one thermostat -good for two fillings and one high temp torch...preferrably the minis.... 1st gargle with gas for 1 minute.....then drill away and fill.... After one rinse with straight antifreeze -all done...

[KStretch55]

Cripes! Any idea what it would cost, or how many laws would be broken if someone was to just mail one North?

[bk2]

Cripes! Any idea what it would cost, or how many laws would be broken if someone was to just mail one North?

 

well to buy a subaru thermostat it is big bucks......37.50 + 15 percent.....

 

my rad .... well I flushed it and back flushed it.....did this over and over....with a white container....each time I got pieces of crusties.....

 

oh and thanks to all for the burping lessons...yes I burped and burped until I got sick.....but it did get rid of the air...

 

for the update......I have put 3 thermostats in my vehicle....all new and the last one finally worked.....go figure....so I am learning I will wait for the vehicle to warm up and see when it opens....I am sure you could do it on a stove but I never had a thermometer....lol

 

I might have to say this brought down the temperature a bit but did not cure the problem completely.....the flushing did help a tad as after every step I checked out the temp.

 

Now....a great mechanic out there said to check for cold spots another said check for hot and warm.....well I do have a rather warm spot on a hot rad.....and guess where it is????????? Right beside the thermosensor which activates the electric fan on the rad.

 

So off I go to the shop to buy a thermosensor for the fan....hmmmmm $40.00.....so I sort of said...now if that area of the rad is not getting up to temp why should I buy another one which would probably not come up to temp to activate the fan...hmmmmmm..lol........

 

Instead I took the advice of one of subaru guys online here and wired the fan to run when the key is turned on......it is running right in the middle -normal operating temperature even after I ran the long steep hill......I never needed to hit the heater fan.....lol.....

 

I know guys a new rad is in order.....but the price is too high at the moment....when the 35+ weather hits I might have to fork out...

 

It is not my intention to run this vehicle too hot as the HG probs will come about......

 

thanks for everything guys.....you were all a help......I was biting my fingers when people were saying HG........and of course the symptoms were there but I feel we do have to start at the beginning and tackle the cheap stuff first.....

 

0:)

[bk2]

Cripes! Any idea what it would cost, or how many laws would be broken if someone was to just mail one North?

 

 

[Hodaka Rider]

WOW!! $40 for a thermostat!! That's seems outrageous, even with the Canadian/American $ conversion. I just paid $9.49 US for the premium one at Schucks. Sounds like you're getting the Gold plated Yukon Territory price or something.

Well, the last t-stat I bought was only $12 up here in Can-uh-duh. But I didn't buy it from the $tealer$hip.

[KStretch55]

I only go to a $tealership if I can't get the part anywhere else. I know most are just running an honest business, but I can't afford to pay for their overhead.

 

BK2, how's your overheating problem been? I had much the same problem in my '91 recently. Finally pulled the radiator and carefully pulled the passenger side tank off then ran the garden hose through the other tank and found that it was mostly plugged. I used a wire to unplug the tubes and carefully reassembled it with just a thin coat of RTV on the gasket. Been working like a charm since then. Some one else recently posted that a strip of metal 33"L x 1/4"W x .032" thick works good too. I found some scrap aluminum and cut two of them, just for future use.