Skip Posted April 16, 2005 Share Posted April 16, 2005 Lebn, One part of your post bothers me you said and I quote " Rotated everything 180 and yep, both pointing up with the lines lined up." If you have both cams with their circles pointing up this is not correct, one should point up the other point down or 180 deg from the other. Hope this helps and congrats on the work in progress, welcome to THE Subaru board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 16, 2005 Share Posted April 16, 2005 i know of 2 guys who bought perfectly good soobs because of improperly installed belts one was an xt6 that was abandonned at a shop, the guy got it and checjked the belts, it ran like a scalded dog and then he parted it out(no title) the other guy bought an 88 dl for 85 bucks, after the previous owner paid 400 bucks to have the belts done. i took a look at it and sure enough the belts were on wrong. re aligned the belts and now the car has seen many miles with nmo problems i wrote the timing belt article, the original article is on my website http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/subaruframe.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lebnjay Posted April 16, 2005 Author Share Posted April 16, 2005 Skip, If you have both cams with their circles pointing upthis is not correct I realize that that it is not correct to have both marks pointing up at the same time. This is why I am saying that the mechanic installed the belts wrong! Now I just need to find a 22mm socket, the 22mm just had to be missing from my set. thanks again guys lebnjay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lebnjay Posted April 17, 2005 Author Share Posted April 17, 2005 Thanks for that link 85Sub4WD, I had actually already found it from another one of your posts. Is the Factory Service Manual worth the extra money over one of the other service manuals like chiltons? Any other ideas on where to find one other than ebay, or are they not generally sold commercially? I think I might go down on Monday and see what he says, hopefully get my money back, but don't have much hope. Maybe I'll fix the timing belt beforehand. I may wait to go down to talk to him until after I fix it though, hopefully that receipt shows up, but I am not too hopeful . hmm, what to do thanks guys lebnjay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Sub4WD Posted April 17, 2005 Share Posted April 17, 2005 Is the Factory Service Manual worth the extra money over one of the other service manuals like chiltons? Any other ideas on where to find one other than ebay, or are they not generally sold commercially? I prefer the FSM (factory service manual) because it has MUCH more information and design specifications than any aftermarket manual. Three books (section 1&2 plus suppliment) about 2 1/4'' thick, they are about your car and are specific to your model year, vs. one book that covers a range of years, that is probably less than an inch thick. I still ocasionally use my Haynes/Chilton's manual, but pretty rarely now - they are sometimes useful for interchangeability information and some more elementary level troubleshooting (like funky tire wear), but realize they are based on the FSM anyway, so you don't really gain much. The FSM also has many more diagrams if you are a visual person. That said, the Haynes manual (1980-1994 NOT 1980-1989) is decent for simpler repairs, like the timing belt, but the FSM is a very good book to have if you want to do anything more extensive (like modifications or overhauls). The FSM's troubleshooting information alone is excellent. - I think mine has served me at least 4x as well as the Haynes manual, and I picked that up for $16. But I have modded my car, and have really needed the extra information. - The best way to decide if you want the FSM is to look at the one I have given you a link to, and decide if you want the whole thing in paperback. If your car is fuel injected, the 1989 FSM should be fairly accurate, but if it is carbed, you will need the FSM for your car for it to be useful to you. I would also consiter an SPFI conversion - I did it myself, and have never looked back - it is a very intense and demanding process though, and is not for the faint of heart, however there is a manual on how to do it here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=61 on how to do it - I have not used it as I did mine before it was written I have (and despise) the Chilton's manual for the car. I found it very unhelpful - the best chance is the one that covers 1985-1992, the newer one which streaches through '96 is far too inaccurate to be useful. They are (I think) still available from Subaru - I do not know the price, and you have to contact them directly to get a special sort of order in - I can't remember when the cutoff is, but they don't make manuals available via their online store if the car was made before a given year. Your best non-ebay chance would be to post a wanted thread in the marketplace section of this website - there are a fair number of people who have manuals for older soobs, and I am sure they would give you a fair price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLCraig Posted April 17, 2005 Share Posted April 17, 2005 Skip, I realize that that it is not correct to have both marks pointing up at the same time. This is why I am saying that the mechanic installed the belts wrong! Now I just need to find a 22mm socket, the 22mm just had to be missing from my set. thanks again guys lebnjay If you have a 7/8" it will work too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lebnjay Posted April 18, 2005 Author Share Posted April 18, 2005 I just borrowed a 22mm from a friend as my set does not go up to 7/8th in standard. Now I just need to find time to get out there, it's too tempting to work on the car instead of getting all this ************ done and, well, graduating. lebnjay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted April 18, 2005 Share Posted April 18, 2005 "bent valves"... I hate it when people try to rip you off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted April 18, 2005 Share Posted April 18, 2005 I am willing to bet it is set to TDC instead of the reference marks as well. Ignorance does not make someone a con artist. Trying to cover your tracks by not doing the work that you charge for is a crime. If you can find the receipt you will have a leg to stand on. Especially if you, yourself get it back together and running by just realigning the belts. The only bad thing is it sat for so long. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
habib99 Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 I am willing to bet it is set to TDC instead of the reference marks as well. Ignorance does not make someone a con artist. Trying to cover your tracks by not doing the work that you charge for is a crime. If you can find the receipt you will have a leg to stand on. Especially if you, yourself get it back together and running by just realigning the belts. The only bad thing is it sat for so long. Good luck. I agree that ignorance is not ideal but not a crime (find a better mechanic or do it yourself) but this guy sounds much more suspect. What's people's views on changing pullies when the bolts are done?? Can you get away with just the belts or do the pullies need renewing too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 Hi legnjay, Welcome and see that you are from Walla Walla! Almost neighbors! I am in the same boat as you, just learning on these things. I currently have an 84 Brat and just got a 1988 wagon (200,000miles) over in Seattle as Sube's are hard to come by in this area... (that are in good condition) I wanted one for me as Brat was for my son. this is what I have learned so far.. don't be scared of the amount of miles on the car or engine... means nothing to these cars... (bullet proof) has been used many times when discussing these cars, a good clean well maintained Subaru (no wires dangling down, rust, beat up etc... ) has value too those who love a cheap, dependable car that a person can still work on, or like us learn to work on and important most mechanics don't ever work on these engines of this era and or they know they can get a car for $100, $100 parts and have good running cheap car. If you like your car, what more harm can you do then to learn from the posts how to fix it? I have been buying parts on e-bay and on parts page, got two repair manuals off ebay and putter on the car learning how it works and keeping it rolling, actually in the year I have owned it I have done very little, that's why I got me one, dependable things. I did have to find a new engine for the Wagon. In our neck of the woods there is a die hard Subaru guy in Prosser, think web name is (SubaruR-us) or something like that, got his number here somewhere... he know's these things in and out, I am too knew to be of much good to you. These guys on this group are excellent for info.... and if you didn't catch it there is a Subaru gathering in Shelton WA, the weekend of July 15th. Enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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