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EA 81 Hub Replacement Questions


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'83 4X4 wagon, nearing 300,000 miles:

 

After replacing front axle countless times with no change in remaining noises and performance, I've decided that the hub is the culprit, and have decided to replace it ('83 FSM, page 9-25 "Wheels and axles, Component Parts" fig. 9.65, #11.).

 

Any special tools or parts needed, or is it just axle nut, washers, 4 bolts to the rotor?

 

Is a used hub usually good, or is new the way to go?

 

Am I asking the right questions:lol: ?

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Dave, used knuckles should do the trick. There's nothing special required other than a 36mm socket for the CV Castle nut, and a Prybar or pickle fork for the ball joints. I would recommend replacing the bearings and ball joints with new ones and do both sides.

 

It wont be difficult, but it will be messy :)

 

-Brian

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Dave, used knuckles should do the trick. There's nothing special required other than a 36mm socket for the CV Castle nut, and a Prybar or pickle fork for the ball joints. I would recommend replacing the bearings and ball joints with new ones and do both sides.

 

It wont be difficult, but it will be messy :)

 

-Brian

 

Brian, I don't think the knuckle is the part at fault, but the hub that's (I think) bolted to the brake rotor on the outboard side. It doesn't appear from the diagram in the FSM that the ball joint needs to be separated at all, as if I was removing the axle.

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if you are taking the knuckle off you need to remove the ball joint.if you are doing the hub it is very simple.take off your wheel,put your parking brake on and spray those bolts with pb blaster ,soak and unbolt.take a flathead screwdriver you are not afraid of messing up and stick it in the seem where the hub meets the rotor,pound lightly to seperate,then tap the outer rim of the hub concentrically until it seperates.voile',replace with other hub and gently tap it back on making sure it is lined up with the holes and splines on the axle....

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OH!! Somepeople call the steering knuckle a hub, thats why i thought...

 

The hub that holds your lugs, yeh thats simple. Goto the junkyard and pull a couple, you want to make sure there is no slop in the ones you pull, and that they seat properly.

 

Have you taken your hub apart to make sure theres nothing caught up in there? Maybe some mud from WCSS :lol:

 

I believe there are 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor, and they are all 12mm. You will need to remove the 36mm castle nut as well.

 

-Brian

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I have a question. I'm gonna need to replace the hubs on my 81 Brat soon, and I want to know If I can swap out hubs from any Gen 1 wagon or hatch or anything. Are they different from the 81 Brats? I had them replaced somewhere along the line when I had some work done to it and it seems that the castle nut doesn't want to seat because maybe they're a different size hub or castle nut or cone washer or something. Any help?

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"Have you taken your hub apart to make sure theres nothing caught up in there? Maybe some mud from WCSS"

 

Nah, I don't think it's WCSS mud, heh heh. The sound is almost like a CV axle gone really bad, but replacing them (both) didn't change anything. I've talked to a few other Subaru guys (and repair shops), most agreed that the hub is probably at fault..I'll replace it and see what happens, then report back here.

 

Hey Brian, got a few minutes for some wrenchin'?:lol: :lol:

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Were the axle nuts loose when you chaged either axle? A bad hub will cause the nuts to come loose. Also is there a build-up of rust color dust around the axle nuts now? That's an other sign of a bad hub.

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Get in line Dave :) Jibs already has me booked to do some rear disc brake stuff to his brat.

 

I should be able to find time to help you both out soon... hopefully.

 

-Brian

 

I feel a Wrench Fest coming soon...:banana:

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BTW, the 4 bolts that hold the hub on are 14's. When pulling an old/used part make sure there isn't any slop in the ones you are pulling.

 

 

Good luck Dave. Oh yeah, thanks a bunch. It was a great gesture.

 

Ken

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