Clutch or Axle?

[nancyjack]

Hi Folks-- New to the board, 97 Outback Wagon, 5-speed manual.

It does not go. Clutch pedal all the way out and it absolutely won't move,

no noise( rattle, grind, anything). Can shift though the gears without depressing the pedal at all. Any ideas. thanks

nancyjack

[subie94]

you say that the clutch pedal comes all the way out,is the cable moving also?

 

maybe by some chance the cable binded up when it was depressed an the clutch is stuck when it was disengauged.well that's the only thing i can think of that would cause that.but then of course i've never been good at figuring out probs.:-\

 

also maybe the fork or throw out bearing

 

hope you get her fixed/

[TheBigJ]

I would agree that it sounds like your clutch is not engaging. Your car *might* (I am not sure) have a hydraulic activated clutch so there may be no cable to adjust. You might have to add hydraulic fluid, or replace a snapped cable depending on your system.

 

My car has a similar problem - the clutch engages at the very top of the pedal throw and slips if I mash the gas pedal. It's probably not engaging all the way and I need to tighten the cable so the clutch engages lower in the pedal throw (and hence, has engaged fully when my foot is off the clutch, so no more slipping). I haven't had time to adjust it but there is a nut/bolt setup near the pedal to tighten it, or so I hear. Mine is a 90 legacy BTW.

[subie94]

I haven't had time to adjust it but there is a nut/bolt setup near the pedal to tighten it, or so I hear. Mine is a 90 legacy BTW.

 

also in the engine bay.where the cable goes to the clutch.simple undo the two nuts(ones used to lock).

 

that's all i know

[Ninklenoink]

Hi all,newby to this site here.

dont wanna be a smart alec but you clutch will slip more if you tighten your cable,it needs slackening to allow the pressure plate to apply more pressure to the friction plate, but now i could do with some knowledge from any1 who can help....

i am about to pull the lump to replace various gaskets and seals etc and replace my clutch at the same time,upon ordering the blueprint clutch i was informed of an attatchment on the screen saying that the flywheel must be replaced with the clutch.

i have fitted hundreds of clutches in my line of work however i have never come across this,is it correct or are they tryina do me outta my hard earned?

its an impreza turbo on 97 p plate

[frag]

You dont have to replace the flywheel unless you wore the clutch plate to the rivets. You could have it resurfaced though.

[richierich]

97 Outbacks have hydraulic clutches, they have no cable to adjust.

 

Since they system is hydraulic either you have a problem with the hydraulic system or with the clutch assembly itself. For the hydraulic system either the slave cylinder (one that moves the throw-out arm) it sits on top of the transmission is going out, or the clutch master cylinder is going out.

 

We have also seen the throw-out bearing arm crack and not let it go in and out of gear but the pedal usually comes up and goes down, just the clutch does not disengage so it will grind but not go into gear.

[DerFahrer]

dont wanna be a smart alec but you clutch will slip more if you tighten your cable,it needs slackening to allow the pressure plate to apply more pressure to the friction plate

 

You're on the right track, but not quite.

 

The throwout bearing pushes the pressure plate inwards toward the engine when you depress the pedal. So using that, we can deduce what will happen.

 

If the cable is too loose, there will be slack in the cable which will have to be taken up before the clutch is disengaged. So the release point will be much farther down on the pedal than it's supposed to, possibly far enough that the clutch will always be somewhat engaged, making it impossible to start the car in anything other than Neutral, and making it impossible to shift gears.

 

At the other extreme, if the cable is too tight, it will be pulling on the clutch fork at all times and the throwout bearing will never leave the PP. In this case, the release point will be very high on the cable, and it might be possible that the clutch never fully engages (i.e. slipping).

 

I learned all this the hard way after I put my transmission back in and tightened the cable waaay too much, thinking the opposite (that the clutch would release early if the cable was too tight). I was going to adjust it by feel later.

[Ninklenoink]

me thinks it would be prudent that i buy the flywheel with the clutch just incase but only fit it if required.does any1 have any tips for mods i could do for performance without breaking the bank?its already gonna cost me the best part of £1000 for the clutch,full brake re-line and timing belt

[Setright]

Nink, you will need a new flywheel. The clutch design was changed and the replacement parts are all of the new type, and these require the new style flywheel. Unfortunately.

 

Best performance upgrade would be a Scoobysport exhaust. How much of the system you replace depends on the size of your wallet.

 

A K&N panel filter will also sharpen throttle response.

[Ninklenoink]

thanks setright!i have both the clutch and flywheel now,just need to find time to fit them!

 

I have,well at the moment got a pipercross induction kit and HKS dump valve fitted and a prodrive cat backwards stainless system with the prodrive performance package and chip fitted.I have been told that an FSE power boost valve would make a dramatic improvement by boosting the fuel pressure?now this might just be me being fussy but when at low speed in high gear i get a violent pinking which is worse than any other car i've ever had with the timing out of adjustment,now i think the chip thats fitted is over advancing the timing but dont quote me!any thoughts or advice gratefully welcomed!