First trip for my new old '88 SPFI GL report

[Hank Roberts]

Let's see --

 

I got 198 miles from the mechanic who replaced the EGR solenoid before I refueled, and when I got back onto the freeway the Check Engine light came back on. Same code 3-4.

 

4wd worked fine, got to my back country meeting with the Forest Service prescribed burning expert and walked the whole site that needs a good planned fire. Aiming for late December after the rains are coming again. Should be fun.

 

Tried going back down the mountain using engine braking in 1st gear and it popped out several times on the first 10 percent (4wd-required-going-up) grade. I see now the manual says use 4th, 3rd or 2nd gear for engine braking. I used 2nd gear plus real brakes til I got to the less steep slope. I wonder about this.

 

Going home on the freeway I noticed the turbo light hasn't been coming on at all, since the last mechanic worked on the car (it did come on and I could feel the extra boost, before this last mechanic worked on it). I bet that's going to be fun.

 

Looking in the little glove box manual, I find the warning not to use the little rectangular storage compartment under the floor just inside the back hatch for anything large and solid (like the scissors jack) because it's there to serve as more crushable space for a rear-end collision. Hmmm. Where am I supposed to find space for the scissors jack?

 

Not too bad for owning a Subaru for two weeks now -- at least I've gotten to where I forget how many days exactly.

 

So my current issues are, did I lose the turbo when the mechanic replaced and rerouted and reconnected the vacuum tubes he said were put in wrong, and why does the EGR Solenoid code come back with a new EGR valve, new EGR solenoid, and new ECU computer all in place.

 

I'm starting to understand why people beat Subarus up, I think -- it's because you can't keep them working in a plain boring normal way, eh?

[Flowmastered87GL]

Most likely... the mechanic accidentally unplugged something that kicks on the turbo light when he was doing the EGR solenoid. I belive they are near the same area of the intake.

 

Regarding where the scissors jack goes...

 

It goes to the LEFT of the smugglers box under the little wooden cover.

 

The jack handle goes in there too if you can believe it. The should be little black clips to hold the handle from moving around.

 

I believe that the feet of the jack point toward the outside of the car, and the little loop that you turn to raise it points towards the rear of the car. I would have to look at my GL to be sure, but I am pretty confident thats how it fits.

[Hank Roberts]

Thanks! The glove box manual doesn't give a clue about that placement.

 

Hmmm, looks like I ought to get a couple of wheel chocks, too, and the other tools the manual lists as standard. I had the wheel lug wrench and nothing else, but my old Toyota jack seems to be standard for these era cars.

 

But reading the manuals helps. Ah, switch from normal to low one while moving in gear, but put the clutch in AND no faster than 20 mph to switchbetween low 1 and low 2 range and don't hesitate in between them, it says. No mention of what happens but elsewhere it says shift from low 1 to low 2 briskly or firmly or the like. Before the gremlins leak out I guess.

 

Elsewhere (NASIOC) I found the note that it can help to be moving in reverse to make the transition out of low range, too.

 

Hmmm, the carpet's shrunk in the back too, the little plastic plugs don't quite reach their sockets Carpet stretcher (sigh), not something I"ve got handy. Oh well.

 

I also need to replace the radio (it's been beaten up and the am/fm button is replaced by a bent paper clip, distracting in traffic when trying to switch bands!). And the radio antenna, which is just a half ihch stub of wire. Looks like that'll be fun to dig out.

 

I'm going to want to try to mount a 2-meter ham radio in the console as well if I can, if that's really a blank space under the current radio where one can fit. More antenna considerations, hmmm.

 

Is there any easy way to bring 12v into the passenger area through the firewall (or tapping off something) while the key's not in the ignition, or, to mount a second battery in a wagon safely?

 

Here's another one -- the past owner had removed the outside gasket around the hatch window, and put it back, and it appears a bit shrunk, the upper left corner is not quite fitting all the way into the angle, I can push it into place but it eoesn't stay. Should it be glued in? I started looking and poking and can't see if it's supposed to be a pressure fit or stuck on.

 

One other observation, no real surprise -- this is definitely a peppier car than my old Toyota Tercel 4x4 -- a bit easier to have the rear end swing wide on soft dirt/gravel bumpy roads and need to pull the car through the turn by speeding up, which was disconcerting -- new struts in the rear, maybe the back wheels stay off the ground more on washboard than I expect.

 

One last one tonight -- the gas 'shocks' that hold up the back hatch are tired -- I notice they stay up just fine til the temperature gets down to about 60 degrees then they slowly fade and the hatch comes down.

Clearly I have to replace them -- do they come off wityh the mounts they're attached to (ttwo Phillips screws on each end)? And what's a good bet to replace them? Here, I won't be able to tell if second hand ones are good unless I have someone hunt in a junkyard in Alaska! And I want them to stay UP even in below freezing weather, I camp a whole lot in the cold these days.

[Flowmastered87GL]

Ok starting with the transmission.

 

On my car I can run in and out of low range all day. Generally I dont shift from high range to low range unless I am going 10 MPH or less. I shift out of it at up to like 45 or so though.

 

While keeping the car IN low range I can slam through all 5 gears just as easy as being in front wheel drive mode.

 

If you are having issues getting in and out of 4WD... make sure your tires are all inflated equally, worn equally and sized and typed equally.

 

Regaring the carpet, probably easier just to replace it. Just pull the plugs out of the back (sounds like they have already popped out) then take off the little metal strips on the backs of the folding seats. The carpet should come out just like that... maybe you could also elongate the holes up in front and use that slack to make the carpet fit right. Or just get a replacement piece from the junkyard for like a buck or 2.

 

My mom used to have an old tercel... the 3AC engine or something like that had around 64HP I think... you should have about 90, though the car IS heavier I think (the suby)

 

My hatch struts suck on cold days... but hold ok on warm days... to change em ya its easiest just to unbolt them all from the hatch and car and swap a good set from a junked car. They cost an arm and a leg from a parts store! (like over $100 each I think)

 

You can sometimes find em on here for $5 each plus shipping.

 

I dont have an answer on teh rear window

 

Regarding 12 volt power I ran the wires for my CB through a hole in the firewall where the AC drip tube goes (had to yank carpet to get to it) and ran them straight to the battery with an inline fuse for safety.