Vibration and Noise Turning Left

[Equalizer]

Since I got this car, 98 Leg OB, its had a strong vibration in the front left side, especially at HW speeds. Its far worse when turning left than into a right hand curve. Its smooth when going straight. I'm seeing no grooving in the rotors, or more wear in the front right than in the left, but I do believe that one, or both are warped. Why, because it pulses when using the brake under heavy load. I changed out the tires, front to back, then replaced the whole set w/another set of tires and wheels. I just wanted to get other opinions to consider any other possibilities before replacing the rotors and brakes.

 

BTW, Speaking of brakes/ rotors, do you guys have opinions on which brand. The OEMs are almost twice what the Silvers are at Advanced Auto, when it comes to rotors, if memory is correct. I'll probably go w/semi-metalic since I do mixed driving, mostly hwy. No need to warm them up to grab well.

 

Thanks

[northguy]

DOJ or axle.

[Equalizer]

DOJ or axle.

 

Northguy,

 

What is a DOJ?

BTW, my boots are in good shape, and there is no clicking while pulling into a sharp turn. Do I diagnose these by shaking them to see if there is excessive play?

 

Thanks!

[Subaru X]

check out your lower balljoint. I just fixed almost the same problem on my legacy. Bad balljoint on the right side. Jack up the car one side at a time. and see if you can move the tire up and down, or back and forth etc. etc. etc. The balljoint should be immobile. so if it twists or moves it's bad.

[Equalizer]

check out your lower balljoint. I just fixed almost the same problem on my legacy. Bad balljoint on the right side. Jack up the car one side at a time. and see if you can move the tire up and down, or back and forth etc. etc. etc. The balljoint should be immobile. so if it twists or moves it's bad.

 

Subaru X,

 

Did you also have the clicking noise when pulling under load, ie. out of a driveway, in a tight corner? Mine doesn't have this, which is one reason I'm puzzled.

I've replaced axles on my old GL a number of times in the past, because it was easier and nearly the same price as replacing the joints. If it is the balljoint(s), do you recommend replacing the whole axle, or is there enough room, and easy enough to just replace the joints?

 

Thanks!

[Subaru X]

If you do replace them you don't need to replace the whole axle. Just the joint. The clicking...or clunking in my case would vary from time to time. The wheel would rattle like hell whenever I would be at a decent speed and turning. I would of course check them before buying new ones. They only run about 30 bux though. So not an expensive fix.

[Equalizer]

If you do replace them you don't need to replace the whole axle. Just the joint. The clicking...or clunking in my case would vary from time to time. The wheel would rattle like hell whenever I would be at a decent speed and turning. I would of course check them before buying new ones. They only run about 30 bux though. So not an expensive fix.

 

Thanks Subaru X

 

I plan to change it/them this week. Will post back here when the job is done.

[Equalizer]

I checked a place that I got some parts from a long time ago, not too far from a crooked Subi dealership. Found out that this place not only sells aftermarket parts, but also does service. Neat thing is that they only work on Subarus! After talking to the owner about a couple of posibilities, I could tell that he knew his stuff, and seemed reasonable as far as prices too.

 

One of his mechanics, a guy who USED to work in the sorry excuse for a dealership across the road, told me what it was as soon as we pulled into traffic......a front wheel bearing. JFYI, I learned that the one piece bearings on the legacies don't always have the play of the old 2 piece GL bearings. That's why it had no play when I raised it and shook the wheel. I've replaced plenty of wheel bearings on the older cars, but had them do this job. Get this. It only cost me $100. I would have paid that much just for the bearing at the stealership. It wasn't OEM, but the owner guarantees it and said that the've never had one go bad. Time will tell, but the car now runs like new! I'm really happy that I've found a shop that speciallizes in subies w/out having to fratinize w/the couple of bad dealerships that bend rocker panels w/their lifts and tell you to live with it. I passeth noxious exhaust fumes in their general direction.

 

Thanks guys