GL10T Digi-Dash Temp Gauge Not Working

[Left_coast*9]

I've searched the forum and found this thread (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34024&highlight=temp+gauge), among others, regarding this topic but **still have questions**. :-\

 

 

Car is an '86 GL10T (EA82T) wagon 4WD 5spd s/r. My temp gauge is intermittently working (mostly NOT), I replaced the coolant sensor located on the inboard side of the thermostat housing, no change. I know at least MOST of the bars on the gauge work, it's just I don't want to risk not having a working temp gauge, for obvious reasons. Right after I replaced this sensor is was working fine at first, the immediately went out...but could have been a coincidence, GD-it . I know these cars have a few coolant sensors. Which one feeds the digidash temp gauge?

 

Thanks!

[NorthWet]

As far as I know, you replaced the appropriate sensor. What you could try is grounding the wire to that sensor and then check the gauge reading. (I can't remember if this is a single wire or two wire, and it is raining too hard for me to go out and look right now.)

 

Anyways, if you ground the wire to the meter it should go full scale.

[Left_coast*9]

Thanks Northwet. Sorry, but can you walk me through that process? I think it's a one-wire sensor...

 

As far as I know, you replaced the appropriate sensor. What you could try is grounding the wire to that sensor and then check the gauge reading. (I can't remember if this is a single wire or two wire, and it is raining too hard for me to go out and look right now.)

 

Anyways, if you ground the wire to the meter it should go full scale.

[calebz]

Personally, I don't trust the digidash temp gauges. I finally broke down and installed an aftermarket gauge. Much more effective IMO, and not terribly expensive. The gauge is a cheap sunpro.. about $15. And I used a CRX pillar pod to mount it.. that also left me room to add a boost gauge. Two nice things to have on a turbo car

[NorthWet]

Thanks Northwet. Sorry, but can you walk me through that process? I think it's a one-wire sensor...

I just looked at my '85 GL10... hopefully they are the same/similar:

 

Remove spade-(flat) connector from the sender, and stick something metallic into the wire's connector; a wire with both ends stripped, or, my personal favorite to have under the hood, a slightly unbent paper clip. Touch/attach the metallic-something to a good ground (e.g. any clean part of the engine, a grounding bolt, the battery negative cable) turn on your ignition and check your gauge.

 

This wire is meant to be "grounded" through the sender, whose resistance is supposed to vary with temperature. If the threads of the sender are not clean or otherwise making good electrical contact with the thermostat housing then the sender may not function correctly.

 

If after grounding the sender's connector and observing the gauge (may need two people) the gauge does not show full scale (or nearly so ), then there is likely a problem with the wiring or the gauge.

 

I hope that this helps.

 

Pat

[Left_coast*9]

Thanks, Northwet, I'll give that a try tonight--long as it doesn't rain . I appreciate the post~! Once again!

 

 

I just looked at my '85 GL10... hopefully they are the same/similar:

 

Remove spade-(flat) connector from the sender, and stick something metallic into the wire's connector; a wire with both ends stripped, or, my personal favorite to have under the hood, a slightly unbent paper clip. Touch/attach the metallic-something to a good ground (e.g. any clean part of the engine, a grounding bolt, the battery negative cable) turn on your ignition and check your gauge.

 

This wire is meant to be "grounded" through the sender, whose resistance is supposed to vary with temperature. If the threads of the sender are not clean or otherwise making good electrical contact with the thermostat housing then the sender may not function correctly.

 

If after grounding the sender's connector and observing the gauge (may need two people) the gauge does not show full scale (or nearly so ), then there is likely a problem with the wiring or the gauge.

 

I hope that this helps.

 

Pat

[Cougar]

These kind of problems can be traced to bad solder connections on the dash circuit a lot of times.

[NorthWet]

These kind of problems can be traced to bad solder connections on the dash circuit a lot of times.

I can certainly believe that! I am looking at some dead EA81 digidashes, and there are some definite problems in the power section.

[Left_coast*9]

Personally, I don't trust the digidash temp gauges. I finally broke down and installed an aftermarket gauge. Much more effective IMO, and not terribly expensive. The gauge is a cheap sunpro.. about $15. And I used a CRX pillar pod to mount it.. that also left me room to add a boost gauge. Two nice things to have on a turbo car

 

I added the gauge too....turns out the car runs nice and cool, runs like a top. Now i just need to do a reseal, belt change (since I have no history on this car), axles, and hell maybe even HGs....AFTER I get it painted. Then this turbo wagon will be a fine daily driver. Hopefully. :-p