How to remove the studs on my brat?

[Flowmastered87GL]

Well the rear brakes on my 87 GL bit the dust so I am going to be driving the brat briefly. It has 2 studded tires on it still and until I can find a way to yank the studs out I had to put my Hakki's on it (dont want to leave em on there too long as they are my rally tires)

 

I tried kind of yanking on the studs with vise grips but they just slipped off.

 

So... these are kind of older 13" snow tires... how do I yank the studs? (most of em still have their tips)

 

Do they pull out or unscrew? Or need some special tool?

[edrach]

I use a set of long electrician's diagonal cutters to grab the ends and then a screwdriver laid across the rubber to act as a fulcrum and then lever the stud out. Crude but it works just as well as anything else.

Well the rear brakes on my 87 GL bit the dust so I am going to be driving the brat briefly. It has 2 studded tires on it still and until I can find a way to yank the studs out I had to put my Hakki's on it (dont want to leave em on there too long as they are my rally tires)

 

I tried kind of yanking on the studs with vise grips but they just slipped off.

 

So... these are kind of older 13" snow tires... how do I yank the studs? (most of em still have their tips)

 

Do they pull out or unscrew? Or need some special tool?

[GLCraig]

I just pry them out with a screwdriver that what I did when I destudded the tires I use for rallyX

[Flowmastered87GL]

Hmmm I had both of the tools out there, I just didnt use em together!

 

I tried just pulling on the stud and I tried kind of prying on it, but not both at once...

 

We'll see if I have time tomorrow to try to remove more. Those tires are on the ugly green brat for now.

[Scoobywagon]

THis is easy...

 

Step 1) Remove one axle from the front end and replace the stub in the wheel end for proper torque on the wheel bearings. This will leave you in RWD mode.

 

Step 2) Find a dark parking lot late at night.

 

Step 3) Throw down a nice puddle of water-based degreaser. I can get you a part number from Spurrier chemical if you like.

 

Step 4) Place your rear tires in the puddle you just made and lock your e-brake.

 

Step 5) Rev up the motor to about...oh...say 4k and dump the clutch.

 

The degreaser will soften the rubber compound, so as the tire heats up, it will start to spit out the studs.

 

Wouldn't know anything about this from experience or anything...just a guess...yeah...

[edrach]

Sounds like an easy way to throw a stud through the gas tank or into something else nasty.

THis is easy...

 

Step 1) Remove one axle from the front end and replace the stub in the wheel end for proper torque on the wheel bearings. This will leave you in RWD mode.

 

Step 2) Find a dark parking lot late at night.

 

Step 3) Throw down a nice puddle of water-based degreaser. I can get you a part number from Spurrier chemical if you like.

 

Step 4) Place your rear tires in the puddle you just made and lock your e-brake.

 

Step 5) Rev up the motor to about...oh...say 4k and dump the clutch.

 

The degreaser will soften the rubber compound, so as the tire heats up, it will start to spit out the studs.

 

Wouldn't know anything about this from experience or anything...just a guess...yeah...

[Scoobywagon]

Nah...the studs have neither the mass nor the velocity to penetrate anything. MOstly, they just kinda fall out of the tire, then get pushed out of the way as the tire turns. THen again, I probably should have mentioned that the tires I did this too were at the end of their useful lives, meaning the studs were no longer particularly pointy. Put on a neat light show, though.

[mudduck]

Why do you need to pop the studs out? Is it illeagle to run with studs in the summer time there?

[edrach]

Come April 1st, it's a $400 fine if caught.

Why do you need to pop the studs out? Is it illeagle to run with studs in the summer time there?

[1978brat]

1). buy a cheap, cheezy flat head or phillips screw driver

 

2). grind the tip to a point, not a sharp point, but enough of a point to fit between the rubber and the stud

 

3). the stud makes a shape sorta like a nail, so push the "screw driver" into the gap, and when it stops going in, pry the tool about a quarter to a half of an inch out away from the center of the stud, and push down

 

4). after about an eighth of an inch, pry back in, as well as up. the stud should pop out with not a lot of ease, but a lot easier than using vice grips or electrician's pliers.

 

5). this may take a little getting used to, and may leave a few blisters, but myself having down this three times in the last week, know your pain..........glad i could help you out.

 

 

 

 

Flynt