Steveman09 Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 Well its been a long 6 months of saving up money and rebuilding the EA82-T in the GL-10 and I'm happy to finally have the engine in and runing! I have allot of knowlege on the EA82's now and if anyone has any questions regarding them I bet I can help you based on my expierences. The rebuild was long and special care was taken while I rebuilt it from the bottom up. Here's what I've done to the GL-10 : All New Tires and Alignment Exide Orbital Xtreme Deep Cycle Dry Cell Battery Pioneer AVH-P6600DVD DVD Player Headunit Pioneer 6 Disc CD Changer (2) Alpine TypeR 10-inch DVC Subwoofers in a Sealed Box JBL BP600.1 Amplifier Alumapro 15farad Power Cap with Custom Relay/Solenoid Autometer 2-gadge Piller Pod Autometer Boost/VAC and Oil Pressure Gadges (Mech.) Mcculloch 5300k HID Headlight Conversion with Custom Relay Harnesses 3AT 4WD Transmission PR Valve Shift Kit Rebuilt Entire Motor including: Honed Cylinders NEW OEM Pistons & Retainer Clips NEW OEM Piston Rings NEW OEM Main and Rod Bearings NEW OEM Wristpins and Rod Bushings NEW OEM Gaskets/Seals Custom Porting and Polishing on the Cylinder Heads and Pressure Checked@50psi Entire Rotating Assembly Balanced (Crank,Pistons,Pins,Rods,Crank Pulley, Flexplate) Complete 3-angle Valve Job on Valves and Seats Micropolished Crankshaft Journals NEW OEM Valve Locks NEW OEM Valve Seals NEW OEM Fuel Injector Seals NEW OEM Water Pump NEW OEM Oil Pump (Rev. NEW OEM Timing Belts, Tensioners/Springs, and Idler NEW NGK Spark Plugs, Wires, Cap, and Rotor NEW 180F Thermostat NEW OEM Fuel Filter Custom Painted Intake Manifold and Valve Covers Custom Painted Oil Pan NEW Knock Sensor ALL NEW Vacuum Hoses and Coolant Hoses PICTURES AT WEBSITE : http://subaru.purehardware.com As you can see I have done ALLOT of work to the beast to say the least, so far I have 220miles on the new motor and its running better and better everyday I drive it. I do however need a new TPS as mine is on the way out, but thats no big deal. I did have an issue with the TD04 and WRX Intercooler Conversion that made me hold off on the conversion until I get some more money/information. When trying to mount the TD04 Turbo to the stock Headerpipe with the bolt pattern modified to accept the TD04 Flange I ran into a clearance problem with the AIR Inlet and AIR Outlet of the TD04! The Inlet was right up against the Intake Manifold and the Outlet was blocked by the transmission. This made hose plumbing impossible, my question to all you TD04 EA82-T Guys out there is this, how did you overcome these clearance issues? Using the stock header pipe is not an option as the turbo needs to be about 3-4inches back towards the firewall and about 3-4inches up to take care of all the clearance issues. Then what about the Oil and Water lines? I figure these will no longer reach and need to be custom made? I really would like some detailed facts on this conversion from people who have done it. Well thats enough for now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru_styles Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 ooh looks like i have some competition here in portland:brow: good job, lets see some pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveman09 Posted May 1, 2005 Author Share Posted May 1, 2005 Posted some pics up for ya, I'll have a bunch more up tomarrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 basically what I've done/doing on my RX with the TD04 as far as inlet/outlet problems is... I got on ebay, figured out how big the inlet was (2.25") and got a 90 degree silicone hose in black that I cut down (had 6" legs on it) and it fits finr. Comes straight up now like on the stock IHI RHB5 turbo. I'm also modifying a Samco y-pipe hose to connect from the turbo to the IC but thats my little secret until its done. Basically go to ebay and start searching for silicone hoses or try http://www.vertexnow.com/car.html. I actually went through ebay and got the hoses for cheaper plus combined shipping then directly through them BUT it was well worth it IMO especially after researching silicone hoses from other companies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik litchy Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 you touched up your heads in the same place i did on the exhaust bowl area. im stuck in looking for pistons now. i see theres Total Seal gapless rings available. those are so mutch better than OEM its not funny and with no turbo I need all the power i can get. I dont need to rebore mine, but as the machine shop as long as it needs new pistons (one was worn 0.002 more than the others) I may as well get the smallest overbore and do it right. how mutch were OEM pistons by the way? what size did you overbore to? was your rod, main and wristpin bushings really worn? mine arent. but there is a worn area at the rear main seal and front crank seal where the crank has been scored that worries me. I tried to polish it out but it was too deep. Im thinking of getting a ready sleeve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveman09 Posted May 1, 2005 Author Share Posted May 1, 2005 basically what I've done/doing on my RX with the TD04 as far as inlet/outlet problems is... I got on ebay, figured out how big the inlet was (2.25") and got a 90 degree silicone hose in black that I cut down (had 6" legs on it) and it fits finr. Comes straight up now like on the stock IHI RHB5 turbo. I'm also modifying a Samco y-pipe hose to connect from the turbo to the IC but thats my little secret until its done. Basically go to ebay and start searching for silicone hoses or try http://www.vertexnow.com/car.html. I actually went through ebay and got the hoses for cheaper plus combined shipping then directly through them BUT it was well worth it IMO especially after researching silicone hoses from other companies. I still dont see how this will work, the stock header uppipe makes the TD04 sit too low and too far forward, the Outlet and Inlets are blocked by the Intake Manifold and the Transmission. There is no way to get any hoses in there with this issue. I would like to see PICS of a TD04 installed on a EA82-T car so I can see. I need a close up pic of the turbo and the piping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveman09 Posted May 1, 2005 Author Share Posted May 1, 2005 you touched up your heads in the same place i did on the exhaust bowl area. im stuck in looking for pistons now. i see theres Total Seal gapless rings available. those are so mutch better than OEM its not funny and with no turbo I need all the power i can get. I dont need to rebore mine, but as the machine shop as long as it needs new pistons (one was worn 0.002 more than the others) I may as well get the smallest overbore and do it right. how mutch were OEM pistons by the way? what size did you overbore to? was your rod, main and wristpin bushings really worn? mine arent. but there is a worn area at the rear main seal and front crank seal where the crank has been scored that worries me. I tried to polish it out but it was too deep. Im thinking of getting a ready sleeve. The OEM pistons weren't cheap they ran me about $60/each dealer cost. I did not bore my motor out since it didn't need it, everything looked really good inside. I just honed the walls to put a pattern back into them for oiling and used STD size internals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik litchy Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 are there any off the shelf aftermarket pistons available? for either turbo or n/a? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanislru Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 Nice, I've done a reseal but nothing close to the level of work you've done. Very nice. You could change the wastegate bracket on your td04 and clock the outlet so it's vertical, it's not all that had to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoorManzImpreza Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 As regards to your TD04 mount I believe most guys use what's been termed an 'up a little further' pipe that shifts the td04 up and angles it back.. I believe Garner has an example of this on his TD04 ea82t powered Brat with pictures.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveman09 Posted May 1, 2005 Author Share Posted May 1, 2005 are there any off the shelf aftermarket pistons available? for either turbo or n/a? I beleave PAECO Industries makes some pistons for the EA82's if your looking to adjust compression and such. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveman09 Posted May 1, 2005 Author Share Posted May 1, 2005 As regards to your TD04 mount I believe most guys use what's been termed an 'up a little further' pipe that shifts the td04 up and angles it back.. I believe Garner has an example of this on his TD04 ea82t powered Brat with pictures.. Ahh that makes sense, now I can see how its possible, where can I find pics of this install? I would really like to use the stock header pipe since its nice and heatshielded but I'm starting to lean towards a whole new custom pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveman09 Posted May 2, 2005 Author Share Posted May 2, 2005 Added more pics for you all, I'm updating my website with more info and pictures of the project. I'll let you guys know when its updated. Should be tonight somtime. The website is : http://subaru.purehardware.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru_styles Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 nice choice on the color of the heads.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 ooooo me like! I like the the contrast between the blue and the aluminum color. Looks nice. Good job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveman09 Posted May 9, 2005 Author Share Posted May 9, 2005 Well its been a long weekend for me, I had to tear the motor back out of the GL on Saturday, I've been having intermentant lifter noise off and on for the past week or so and I finally got tired of it and decided to do somthing, I got a whole set of lifters from a co-worker that only had 500miles on them for FREE I then realized I made a mistake when assembling the CAM towers/covers onto the heads, after talking with a tech about my lifter problems he went off about a old story where he forgot to install 2 small o-rings into the CAM towers and when he siliconed the Towers to the heads some of the silicone got sucked into the lifter oil passages and made the lifters go crazy all because of these o-rings missing. I then realized I too had forgotton to install them into my CAM Covers!!!!! Now if anyone has ever attempted to change out lifters with the engine in the car they know how much of a PITA it can be since the CAM Followers fall out as soon as you take the CAM covers off, and since I had some small hard to reach spots where I had some coolant leaks (bad hoses) and I scored the set of lifters for FREE I decided to just pull the motor out since it is 10 times easier to work on it out of the car. I had the motor out in about 2 hours taking my time, I pulled it completly assembled, just removed bellhousing bolts/nuts, alternator, a/c, ps pump, wiring harness, radiator & fans, and turbo downpipe. Once I got it out of the car I went through and double checked everything on the motor, fixed the coolant leaks (replaced hoses). When I took the CAM covers off I immediatly noticed the missing O-rings! I shook my head and proceeded to remove all the lifters, then I noticed there was in fact silicone in the lifter passages! So I took my air attachment to my air compressor and blew all the passages to remove all the packed silicone, After all that I installed the new o-rings, re siliconed everything, assembled it all back together and had the engine back in the car and running by 8pm saturday night. I'm happy to report the engine is running near perfect now, I also adjusted the timing and installed the new TPS sensor, MAN WHAT A DIFFERENCE! This sucker pulls harder than my V6 Acura Legend 5-speed! I can't wait until I get some more miles on this motor so I can install the TD04 and Intercooler, it's going to be a beast. I wish I had my camera when I baked the tires when the turbo kicked in from a stoplight That same night I killed an Integra GSR w/Mods and the guy was completly at Dismae! At the next light he was like "What the hell is in that thing?!?!" I just said "1.8L Turbo" and took off I'll keep you all updated on the progress, next up is 2-row HD Radiator, Dual Electric Fan Conversion, TD04-13g Turbo, Top Mount Intercooler, and Custom 2.5" Exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveman09 Posted May 14, 2005 Author Share Posted May 14, 2005 Just thought I'd give some updates on the motor, I've now got over 550miles on the motor and its running near perfect and plenty strong. I finally got the PCV System Plumb'd up correctly, had to make lots of trips to home depot for hose clamps, fittings, etc. You know the drill I also just found out my Coolant Temp Sensor was way out of range when I OHM'd it out with my meter! This explains my odd drivability when cold and rough idle at times. I replaced it today and all my drivability problems went away along with the rough idle! I do however have another problem I have been trying to figure out since I put the new motor in, I have had low vacuum at idle since day 1. With the engine idling at around 900rpms my vacuum is only 11HG give or take, this also is causing a stumbling idle after the engine is warmed up on initial startup for about 30seconds then clears itself out but the vacuum still remains low. I've searched high and low for vacuum leaks and found none. Then while talking with a few techs today at work it dawned on me what the problem is. When I built the motor I ported the heads and opened the ports up a pretty good ammount, and since the EA82-T is 7.7:1 C/R That coupled with the newly ported heads is causing my poor vacuum at idle Not really a big deal since it still runs great, but just kind of annoying on initial startup for 30seconds until it clears out. It's kind of like when you put a big CAM in a Chevy 350, at idle there is little to no vacuum and it runs like ************, but when you wromp on it, hold on I've got all the bugs worked out and I'm allmost ready to put the TD04 Turbo on, I'm just saving up some more cash to get the custom exhaust fabbed up at this point. I also would like to get some more miles on the engine before I start to push it hard. So far with the stock turbo@7psi I have been able to beat a new Scion TC, Integra GSR w/mods, Ford F150 (LOL), Chevy S10 4.3L V6, and a Civic EX V-TEC w/intake & Exhaust. Not bad for a GL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendrik Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 Looks great ! Quite a number of hours spent..... Question following one of your pictures : The digital dash seems much brighter than the one I have. Driving with sun and sunglasses : nothing more to see ! Any idea how to improve the light output ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveman09 Posted May 17, 2005 Author Share Posted May 17, 2005 Looks great ! Quite a number of hours spent..... Question following one of your pictures : The digital dash seems much brighter than the one I have. Driving with sun and sunglasses : nothing more to see ! Any idea how to improve the light output ? Umm, I'm not sure exactly which car you have but I do know that the older Digidashs were really dim compared to the newer ones and they also used different colors. I noticed a small improvement with interior light brightness adding a bunch of grounds for the chassis under the hood, you might try that, but if you dont have the same dash as me then its not likly to help. Maybe your's is worn out, there is a dimmer switch to the left of the dash that controls the brightness, make sure its all the way up on HIGH, last but no least the switch could be bad. I would have to see a picture of it to tell for sure. Thanks for the comments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendrik Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Umm, I'm not sure exactly which car you have but I do know that the older Digidashs were really dim compared to the newer ones and they also used different colors. I noticed a small improvement with interior light brightness adding a bunch of grounds for the chassis under the hood, you might try that, but if you dont have the same dash as me then its not likly to help. Maybe your's is worn out, there is a dimmer switch to the left of the dash that controls the brightness, make sure its all the way up on HIGH, last but no least the switch could be bad. I would have to see a picture of it to tell for sure. Thanks for the comments. The lights switch and dimmer potentiometer is combined , two knobs on two axes on the same place. It is left of the dash. Worn out ? May-be. It has 19 yers now , but only 60 K miles. The colour is like a neon lamp , not bright red. May be the voltage alltogether is a bit low at the dash , I have to check that as well. Thanks for your input ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now