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Problems with EA81T


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This sounds like its the Mass Air Flow Meter/Sensor to me.

 

 

Try unplugging it, then start it and see if it idles.

 

 

I'm willing to bet this is your problem.

 

When MAF's go haywire they cause the exact symptoms your having.

 

Ok, changed the MAF sensor...............................The subaru Demon still resides within my caricon9.gif

 

Any other idea's?

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It might be the Throttle Position Sensor. Its on the side of the Throttle Body and you will see a wiring connector to it. Remove it and see if the contacts are corroded. Clean them if they are. To adjust one is a beotch, you will need the FSM.

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Plug in the green connerctor under the dash, take it for a drive and see if it will put out any codes - read them as soon as the ecs light comes on 'cos they will disappear.

If there is no error that the computer can find, the check engine light will start flashing after driving for 5-10 mins.

 

My ea81t has had its share of problems, in fact its in a million pieces in the garage at the moment - previous owner changed piston rings but left very bad bearings in it. After you have sorted teething problems out and start taking resonable care of it, it shoud be just as reliable as any other ea81 IMO.

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I agree with the other posters about the MAF and TPS being possibilities now that we know this engine is injected. I would also include the injector as a suspect. You changed the MAF and that was no help. There may be a wiring problem to the MAF but you would think that would generate a code. If the TPS is ok I would check the injector next. It would be interesting to look at the injector signal with a scope to see what the signal looks like.

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I agree with the other posters about the MAF and TPS being possibilities now that we know this engine is injected. I would also include the injector as a suspect. You changed the MAF and that was no help. There may be a wiring problem to the MAF but you would think that would generate a code. If the TPS is ok I would check the injector next. It would be interesting to look at the injector signal with a scope to see what the signal looks like.

 

My motor is a multi port FI, I ruled out the possibiltie of injectors since i have 4, i don't really see all 4 having problrms all at once, Now for wireing, like i said before it was running PERFECT, shut it down...........fired it up and boom, instant problems.

 

The more i drive it the worse it gets now, I have a task just getting it out of my driveway.

 

ross

Plug in the green connerctor under the dash, take it for a drive and see if it will put out any codes - read them as soon as the ecs light comes on 'cos they will disappear.

If there is no error that the computer can find, the check engine light will start flashing after driving for 5-10 mins.

 

What green connector?, i know of 1 under my dash and i do belive it's just a single wire, And where might i be plugging it into?

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What green connector?, i know of 1 under my dash and i do belive it's just a single wire, And where might i be plugging it into?

 

There should be both a male and femal single wire green connector poking out of the wiring loom near where it connects to the computer.

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Gee Glen, I didnt think you were serious :grin: His thread subject states its a EA81T ;)

 

I am pretty lame when it comes to knowing the different engine designations sorry to say but I am slowly learning.

 

CHIM, since the problem happened all of a sudden after you started it up, it could be a problem with the wiring to the MAF or TPS. Before you check the wiring, another thing it may be is the coolant temperature sensor that tells the ECU how warm the engine is. The sensor is different from the dash gauge sensor. The sensor for the ECU may have 2 wires going to it instead of one. I'm not sure what the resistance table of the sensor should be but that would be worth looking at. I have heard of these sensors failing and causing the engine to run rich.

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Try cleaning all your common engine grounds.

 

It was a damn gorund wire the whole time, The day my problems started the alternator munched the main ground from the battery to the block.:banghead: I didn't think about it at all.:banghead:

 

I feel so sheepish couse iv been a bahahad boy, I feel like an rump roast now.

 

Thank you guys so much for your help, YOU GUYS ROCK!:banana:

 

~CHIM~

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Yeah Subaru's stock grounding system is simply crap.

 

 

I broke down and regrounded and added a bunch more engine grounds to my car since I was having a bunch of wierd problems.

 

After looking at the design I was left laughing.

 

I advise everyone to add more engine grounds to your subaru, it benifits allot of things in the car in more ways than 1.

 

Glad I could help you with your problem.

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There should be both a male and femal single wire green connector poking out of the wiring loom near where it connects to the computer.

 

Ok, all proeblems fixed sept a bad trubo wich should be easy to fix, am wondering what the green plugs under the dash do., Explain thier purpose, what happens if there hoocked up all the time?

 

Just wondering

 

~CHIM~

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Ok, all proeblems fixed sept a bad trubo wich should be easy to fix, am wondering what the green plugs under the dash do., Explain thier purpose, what happens if there hoocked up all the time?

 

Just wondering

 

~CHIM~

 

There are 2 sets of connectors, the GREEN set and the BLACK set.

 

 

Green = Test Connectors

Black = Read Connectors

 

When you connect the GREEN ones together this is for setting ignition timing.

 

Connecting just the BLACK ones is how you read CODES at your ECM using the O2 Monitor LED.

 

Connecting Both GREEN and BLACK connectors is how you reset your ECM stored CODES.

 

You dont want to allways drive with the green ones connected as it will not allow the timing to funtion properly, and you will prolly not have much power.

 

Also make sure all your INTAKE and Turbo Hoses are tight and have NO LEAKS, the noise your hearing could be a small boost leak, use some BRAKE Cleaner and spray it all around the Intake hoses and see if the idle changes, if it does then you found a leak.

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I had a situation like that when I first got my GL-10 running. It would idle fine, but it would miss very badly when under load. So I played with the ignition timing and Voila!!! It did the trick. You might try that. Let me ask a stupid question, have you by chance installed an intercooler? If not, you might try that because it makes the advanced timing thing a little more flexible, considering that the air charge will be much cooler. Just a little extra food for thought.

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