Analog to Digital

[Mysticcal]

Since I've fallen in love of appreciation of my 87 GL after finding this forum, I was curious if it would be possible to upgrade the old analog dash to a digital dash (If i can even find one) I mean, with the wiring headers it seems like it wouldn't be that difficult of a task?

[Flowmastered87GL]

Yes you COULD do it. Often people switch FROM digital, but hey get 2 wiring diagrams, change afew senders (oil pressure I know for sure has to be changed) and hack afew wires... it can be done.

 

The easier method may just be to find a GL-10 with a bad engine or tranny and swap your running gear over to it. (thats how I'd do it personally)

[nkx]

my car came with the digital dash, and im not terribly impressed by it. the speedo never can decide exactly how fast im going. it likes to flip flop between 2 numbers... like 58 and 61, when im crusing. the straight line tach doesnt really do it for me either. i dont plan on swapping it out. i dont drive the car everyday, so its not that big of a deal.

[DerFahrer]

There is a rarity in a junkyard near me, a GL-10 nonturbo with the digidash. If it wasn't FWD, I'd go so far as to have them pick the DL wagon off its roof and buy it from them. But I might be able to yank the digidash out of it

[85Sub4WD]

There is a rarity in a junkyard near me, a GL-10 nonturbo with the digidash.

what year is it? the 1985 FWD GL-10 was the only soob wagon/sedan to come with an MPFI N/A engine - they are very rare - may be worth going after anyway (for the drivetrain)

 

Mystical:

this might interest you:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7973456235&category=33675

 

that said, I would recommend you stick with the analog gagues, they are MUCH more reliable, and you have a oil pressure gague (not critical) and a volt meter (VERY USEFUL IF THE ALTERNATOR FAILS!!) - you would loose both with a digital dash

[calebz]

what year is it? the 1985 FWD GL-10 was the only soob wagon/sedan to come with an MPFI N/A engine - they are very rare - may be worth going after anyway

 

True, but the 85 wasn't the only NA digidash GL-10.. The later ones came as SPFI

[JWX]

True, but the 85 wasn't the only NA digidash GL-10.. The later ones came as SPFI

yep I have one

[Vanislru]

This is good advice, I cooked my turbo sedan's engine cause the digi dash has no oil pressure gauge and the only warning I had was when I needed more throttle to maintain speed on a flat section of highway. Cooked the motor. Stick a fork in cause it's done. I would've tossed the digi dash if I thought the car was a keeper. After market oil gauges are cheap tho.

[le-wardy]

Mysticcal, g'day from down under,

 

I own a '83 Touring Wagon Auto (TWA) which came from the factory with a digi-dash. (My first Subie, and I love it to bits)

 

I'm now on my 3rd digi-dash replacement. The original got fried at the second-hand car yard when I went to buy it two years ago. The car dealer said that the battery installed in the car was a bit low on voltage, but would be fine to drive away once the car started. So he hooks up a battery charger which has a 'jump start' feature. I told him that it wasn't necessary, as I had brought another charged battery with me. Well the dealer couldn't get the car started quick enough, before I got a chance to swap over the batteries. The end result, speedo readout display fried. Had my first experience about electronic devices needing special care when 'jump starting'. A perfect working digi-dash now slightly stuffed, before driving it out of the yard. One week later, the dash is completely dead when all displays go black. (Insert your favourite swear words here) !!

 

Frantic phone calls to wrecking yards around the near vincinity to home, helps me find another digi-dash. $250 is coughed up for the replacement. It expires after 2 months.

 

2nd replacement dash (another $250 coughed up) is put in, trip computer and fuel gauge displays go black after 3 months. :-\

 

3rd replacement dash is put in (that's right another $250), and the speedo display readout changes itself from kilometres per hour to miles per hour while driving along the highway ,and has remained that way for the past year and a half. Fuel readout display is also affected, showing a constant full tank. Rely now on the trip computer to tell me of fuel quantity left in the tank.

 

I'm not anymore going to give the Subaru wrecking yard I go to, another $250 for another dash. Subaru never released to my knowledge a circuitry diagram for the digi-dash. So trying to work out where the problem is in the dash, is pretty much a 'needle in the haystack' scenario. Keep in mind that the electronic components used in the dash are now over 20 years old. Some of those components may not exist nowadays.

 

Should any other display readouts go black in the digi-dash, I'm now looking at using electronic automotive kit modules (speed, fuel, tacho, temp) with digital displays from Tandy Electronics or similar electronic supply stores, to take their place.

 

When the digi-dash finally completely dies, I'm going to go to an analogue dash. Hopefully it will cost less than $750 (3 digi-dashes).

 

I love computers and digital displays, but if the technology is so old that it cannot be repaired. I just don't need the hassle that goes with it.

 

Mysticcal, I'm sorry if I sound that I'm dampening your enthusiasm about digi-dashes. But as others have said in this topic, if the electrics or electronics fail, you will be driving blind. And that for me, is my greatest fear about the dash. Not knowing what the car's vitals are doing ?? (speed, fuel, temp, oil)

[wagonist]

The MY Digital dashes & L Series are very differnet in their reliability.

We didn't get the digi dash after 84, but they've shown up in turbo halfcuts (I know I used to have one)

Its very strange that the "top of the line" dash doesn't have the volts & oil pressure though.

[NorthWet]

Mysticcal, g'day from down under,

 

I own a '83 Touring Wagon Auto (TWA) which came from the factory with a digi-dash. ...

... Subaru never released to my knowledge a circuitry diagram for the digi-dash. So trying to work out where the problem is in the dash, is pretty much a 'needle in the haystack' scenario. Keep in mind that the electronic components used in the dash are now over 20 years old. Some of those components may not exist nowadays...

I am currently looking at the dead digidash situation. On first blush, it looks like the problem is burning-out of the standard 5-volt regulator IC (7805), and some other issues with overheated solder joints deteriorating. almost everything in there looks like an off-the-shelf electronic part.

 

According to one of the members local to me, he has an FSM that shows the digidash connections and how to test/troubleshoot it. I hope to borrow it in the next week or so.

 

In other words, it might be possible to resurrect EA81 digidashes for little more than a US$0.50 IC and some time spent touching up solder joints.

[le-wardy]

NorthWet,

 

If you are able to computer scan the digi-dash circuit diagrams and notes from the FSM you mention, I would be keen to get a copy of that. Because of the dramas I've had, I'm now teaching myself about electronics using available books on the subject.

 

I would like to do a complete re-build of one of the dead digi-dashes I have, using current available componentry should the FSM diagrams clearly state the components used. Making you own custom PCB's (printed circuit boards) are easy nowadays also.

 

Look forward to your report about the FSM when you receive it.

 

 

Wagonist,

 

The display readouts on the 'MY' digi-dash are Trip computer (time, range (distance to fuel remaining), tripmeter, timer/stopwatch ; Tacho ; Fuel Gauge ; Speedo ; Temp gauge ; Telltale (Graphic monitor) alerts

 

I've never seen an 'L' series with a digi-dash as yet, so I'm surprised of your mention about it. Always thought the 'MY's were cursed with them.

[wagonist]

The "L" Series digital dash is what the others on this thread started off talking about, the first post was about an 87 GL.

 

There where 2 versions, an early orange lit type which is like a big light at night, & a later more stylish green version which has a tinting on the lens so you can't see what's not lit.

The Vortex was also available with one.

[SkankinPickle]

the testing proceedures in the FSM are rather basic ones for the major read outs. Yet it let's you know exactly what wires power and which ones supply the gauge with information.

 

hey north, i'm sending that baby out monday if you don't end up crossing the sound this weekend.

[DerFahrer]

what year is it? the 1985 FWD GL-10 was the only soob wagon/sedan to come with an MPFI N/A engine - they are very rare - may be worth going after anyway (for the drivetrain)

 

It took me a minute to remember, but yes I believe it is an MPFI.

 

Crap, now you got me thinking Are they really that rare?

[wagonist]

Are you guys serious? That's the only model you got with an N/A MPFI engine?

 

I can see now why you concentrate on the SPFI engines.

We only got carb or MPFI turbo to 87, then MPFI N/A in 89 & 90

[DerFahrer]

Well, we got MPFI N/A's in the XT's but that was about it I think. According to 85Sub4WD, the 85 FWD GL-10 was the only car to get an MPFI N/A engine.

[nkx]

this is a little OT, but this thread got me thinking... is there a port or something i should tap into to install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge? i would much rather use something from the factory than have to drill a hole somewhere in the engine bay to put a sending unit.

[NorthWet]

...hey north, i'm sending that baby out monday if you don't end up crossing the sound this weekend.

Coming through Sunday... sent you a PM.

[pasco]

Hi

I had ongoing issues with my dash with every possible fault you could come up with happening right down to no dash and a constant piezo alarm sounding. It wasn't much fun. Anyway after finally working out how to remove the dash and working out where to connect the 12v supply I noticed that the 5V regulator voltage was 4.8v.

When you remove the main card from its housing the regulator "17805P" sits at the top left. I regulator only cost $1:50 from Jaycar. I also found a dry joint around the tacho display which I may have been caused while trying to re solder some of the soldered joints.

While I had the dash out I also replaced the dash globes. These globes are 1.7 to 2W and I purchased them from a local auto electrician. Don't try and replace them with the LED type or 5W lamps as the LED colour is all wrong and the 5W is way too bright and could overload the circuit.

The only lamps I couldn't quickly find were those in the trip computer.

Anyway I'm just happy the dash is back.

Now all I have to do is repair the heater and radiator leak. I've taken pictures of where to connect a 12v supply on the bench so please let me know if you would like me to send them in. Also when you connect the main board on the bench the only lights that will come on is the fuel low light and the KPH/mls.

Faults:"these are some of the effects of an incorrect rail voltage"

 

Segments latched on or flickering. "especially the fuel display"

Dash auto switching from KPH to Miles

No dash and alarm sounding

All segments on.

Cheers.

Pasco

Edited July 27, 2012 by pasco

[rdweninger]

Hello Pasco,

I own two '85 digi-dash EA82's. Although they both work... I have often wondered... "how would I get the dash off if I ever need to work on the digi-electronics".

Could you document the steps required to pull the dash. I'm sure there are lot's of 'hidden' fasteners. And I'm sure others would like to see the pics.

If you have time... thanks. Ron W.

[pasco]

Hi Ron

Your right there are three hidden screws that had me stumped for a while and as always and its easy to remove twice the amount of screws required.

Its a quick process now but I hope I wont need to get back in for a while. Its difficult to fault find at the best of times but when you don't have a circuit it's tough. I never got the request for a circuit diagram from Subaru and most auto electricians just told me to scrap it. Anyway I'm new to forums and have not been able to work out how to upload an image so I will try and explain the process.

First of all disconnect the battery

Hidden Screws!!

There are two plastic covers to remove. The first sits to the left of the forward facing vent grill just below and to the left of the vent on/off lever. Pull the vent knob off while your at it. The other triangular cover to remove is on the drivers side right hand side vent, directly above the coin compartment. The next few screws to remove are on the underside of the dash, four in total.

There is one screw next to the light switch and the other near the wiper control to remove and I found it easier to pull of these switched and unscrew them and leave them connected rather than unplugging them.

I also removed the cover around the steering wheal but make sure you wrap some bubble wrap as it too easy to scratch the dash.

You will also have to remove the choke by simply unscrewing the knob screw and releasing the plastic lock nut.

Once the front compartment has been removed the dash is held in by 4 screws. Its a bit of effort to remove the module but you need to slide it out enough to get your hand behind to remove the speedo cable as it's not very long. Once removed there are four plugs to remove all of which are keyed so they will only go in the right way.

The actual main board is easily removed firsly by unscrewing the face plate that the driver sees then unscrewing the clear perspex cover and underlying dark plastic cover.

The main board is held in with half a dozen screws but you will need to unplug the two cables from the other side.

Cheers

Pasco

Edited July 28, 2012 by pasco

[natext6]

Don't know if this helps, but!

I'm swapping an xt digidash into my xt6, I had to pick up the fuel tank sender from the xt , and the engine temp sensor, you probably don't have to worry about this, but I also had to get a tach signal converter as the digidash is designed to receive signals from a 4 cylinder engine, not a 6 cyl.

 

Pulling the unit apart wasn't hard actually, I think there were ~15 small screws throughout. Other than that, everything fits together and sits properly without any direct fixation. TAKE PICTURES OF EVERY STEP. You can easily forget to things, as there are LOTS of small parts.