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Loyal ignition lock problems


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This maybe more of a question for a locksmith than a mechanic.

 

Our '90 Loyal has developed an annoying problem with the ignition key not coming out of the switch when turned off. Two keys behave the same way. It doesn't do this all of the time but does seem to be hanging more frequently. I've shot penetrating oil into the tumbler a number of times but I can't say it has helped or lessened the frequency. I've found no real pattern to this problem other than MAYBE it hangs more if I turn sharp into a parking space. But I can't be sure about this 'cause it doesn't do it consistantly.

 

Is there any electrical system tied into this switch that could be causing this problem; or does it sound like the switch needs to be retired? If there IS a locksmith out there does it sound like a key needs to be made for the lock rather than shadowed from another key?

 

ANY INPUT WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

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I would do a visual inspection of the lock mechanism/steering wheel before jumping to any conclusions.

To do this, you will need to remove the plastic trim around the steering column. With everything in plain view, you should be able to quickly identify what is binding. It may be as simple as making some adjustments, to actually removing the lock cylinder.

You'll have to peel the steering column anyway, so no extra work. In the meantime, don't let your imagination get carried away. You can safely rule out the "electrical system" as the cause. This is purely mechanical.

good luck, John

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I would do a visual inspection of the lock mechanism/steering wheel before jumping to any conclusions.

 

To do this, you will need to remove the plastic trim around the steering column. With everything in plain view, you should be able to quickly identify what is binding. It may be as simple as making some adjustments, to actually removing the lock cylinder.

 

You'll have to peel the steering column anyway, so no extra work. In the meantime, don't let your imagination get carried away. You can safely rule out the "electrical system" as the cause. This is purely mechanical.

 

good luck, John

 

My concern is for the release button at the far throw of the auto-shifter. The one thing I've noticed is when the switch malfunctions the shift feels....different.....when put back into park. Sorry, "different" is the only way I can describe it. Is there something tying the shift linkage to the ignition switch?

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Is there something tying the shift linkage to the ignition switch?

not that I know of - I KNOW there is no connection on the non-turbo cars, and I am 99% certain that there is not a mechanical connection on the turbo cars - Subarus simply use an inhibitor switch to prevent starting while in gear - no sepecial interlocks on the tranny like ford and GM have - more reliable design because of its simplicity

 

I would go to a dealer, and give him your VIN and ask for a key - should not cost much, but it would be a "factory" key almost exactally like the one that came with it originally

 

depending on how bold you are feeling, WD40 or graphite lubricant in the switch may also be a good idea

 

this is a problem specifically with the lock cylinder, and not in any way electrical, as the problem is pulling the key out of the switch

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My 90 Legacy Automatic has an interlock solenoid that prevents the key from being removed unless the gear selector is in PARK. There is an override button on the quadrant, and there is also supposed to be something on the solenoid attached to the lock mechanism.

 

That being said, my 90 Turbo Loyale Auto does not seem to have any such interlock.

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not that I know of - I KNOW there is no connection on the non-turbo cars, and I am 99% certain that there is not a mechanical connection on the turbo cars - Subarus simply use an inhibitor switch to prevent starting while in gear - no sepecial interlocks on the tranny like ford and GM have - more reliable design because of its simplicity

 

I would go to a dealer, and give him your VIN and ask for a key - should not cost much, but it would be a "factory" key almost exactally like the one that came with it originally

 

depending on how bold you are feeling, WD40 or graphite lubricant in the switch may also be a good idea

 

this is a problem specifically with the lock cylinder, and not in any way electrical, as the problem is pulling the key out of the switch

 

The simpicity of the older Subarus is what I like. It a shame they're all "All Wheel Drives" now. That'll probably keep me from buying a newer one.

Thanks All for the input

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If you have an original master key with the key code on it (4-digit number), you can go to a reputable locksmith and have a key cut from the number. Last time I needed keys cut, I bought some blanks from the dealership and then took them to the locksmith shop and had them cut the keys. It was amazing how much easier it was to use a key that was in good shape.

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A dealer can cut a new key from your vin. The key code is in their database.

 

My Subaru Dealer will cut "courtesy" keys for free. Give a new key a shot!

 

If it still won't play, I'd look to a Junk yard for a new switch. If you want to get fancy then collect all the locks out of the JY car and "rekey your whole car". Look for a JY car with a good key. The key codes for the lock are inside the door on the lock if you can't find a perfect JY key.

 

Good Luck,

Glenn

82 SubaruHummer

01 Forester

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it probably is the keys .. when they were copied the burrs may not have been removed well enough.. do they feel or look sharper? or do the ramps look steeper especially on the back side(towards the bow-or handle)? if so the problem is the copied keys.

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it probably is the keys .. when they were copied the burrs may not have been removed well enough.. do they feel or look sharper? or do the ramps look steeper especially on the back side(towards the bow-or handle)? if so the problem is the copied keys.

 

I'm going to make the drive to Gastonia and get the dealership to cut a key and see if that solves the problem.

Thanks for the advice

Hayne

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