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Hey, i have a 2000 OBW and my Check Engine light has been coming on more frequently as of late (last 6000K). It will turn on and be on for a couple hundred miles and then turn off. I haven't noticed anything wrong with the performance of my car. In fact it drives perfectly. The only little nuance that i have noticed in the last couple days is that it's starting a bit strange. When you turn the key the starter starts spinning but instead of the engine firing right away it just keeps spinning. Sometimes i let off the key and then turn it over again and it fires right up like nothing happened. Othertimes if you kind of stay on the starter for a second or two longer it will fire.

 

My questions are...

 

1) could this be something to do with my fuel pump, injectors, or O2 Sensors? I know Check engine lights commonly come on for the sensors.

 

2) could the check engine light be related to this nuance? Im guessing possibly.

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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Have the codes read at autozone. That will probably tell you what the problem may be.

I know, I don't have an Autozone around for 150 Miles is the problem. I had the codes pulled about a month ago and they said it came back clean with no codes read... Can the check engine light come on and not create a code? Can the computer in your car clear out the old codes after a certain amount of time?

 

Thanks for the input though...

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I had a similar problem, and it kept getting worse to the point where sometimes it would be very difficult to get the car to start.

 

 

It turned out to be a faulty crankshaft position sensor.

 

Pretty Cheap and easy to fix.

 

You can get a code reader at Walmart for 99 bucks. It comes in real handy.

 

Matt D

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good way to check the pump is listen for open the gas cap and have someone turn the key to "on" the pump should run for 1-3 seconds. if this works tehn pump is at least turning on when asked. also check plugs as fouled plugs can cause this type fo problem with that CEL.

 

only 3 things make a motor run: fuel + air + spark = flame. if you have all three than you should be good.

 

Joe

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I believe the check engine light was intermittent. I had it replaced under warranty, I didn't do it myself, but I don't think it's too hard.

 

 

I'll look for some info for you.

 

Check out these threads. The 1st link gives you a pic of the area of the crankshaft. I believe the crankshaft position sensor is the black object just above the crankshaft pulley with the single bolt and the wire attached to it. It sits underneath the alternator.

 

 

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/DCP_2703.JPG

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29756

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12947

 

Matt

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Exactly how long does the engine crank before firing?

 

The colder the engine, the longer the crank time. I believe Subaru have done this on purpose since it builds oil pressure before starting.

 

 

Building oil pressure makes sense, but it's never done this before, even in -20 Degree weather! It cranks for about 4-5 seconds when it does this otherwise it will crank right over under normal conditions.

 

Ill check the plugs to see if they are dirty. That could be the issue too. That would make sense, if the plug isn't igniting the mixture completely it could cause the CEL to pop on.

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Leave the car standing overnight. In the morning turn the key to the "ON" position and listen for the sound of your fuel pump. It'll only be present for a short while and is a kind of whirring noise that rises in pitch.

That's the pump pumping pressure into the fuel rails.

 

It's a good idea to pause the key here whenever you start the engine, lets the fuel pressure rise and the electronics wake up :)

 

 

Of course, something must be up if your car has started acting different.

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Ill try that. Ill let you know what happens. Thanks guys. It's nice to know there are people who actually know what they are talking about as opposed to getting fed some line by some mechanic!

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