Outback transmission fluid change

[viceversa]

2000 Outback, 2.5L auto, 89K miles

 

How many times do I need to change it to equal a "flush"?

 

What's the best oil to use? And how many quarts?

 

Do I need a Subaru filter or will an aftermarket suffice?

[Commuter]

Assuming the 2000 is (very) similar to the 95-99 Legacies...

 

Capacity is 10L. A drain will only remove about 4L.

 

So do it once, and you have 60% old ATF left.

 

Do it twice and you have 36% old ATF left.

 

Do it three times and you have 22% old ATF left.

 

Obviously, running the transmission for a while in between drains to thoroughly mix the old and new.

 

Personally, I'd consider that good enough. You'll need 12L of new ATF, or about the same as what a shop would want for a "flush" anyway.

 

There are those that will tell you that a "flush" replaces close to 100% of the old fluid, but I've heard where that may be far from the case.

 

I'm not familiar with the filter on this generation. It is a small screw on one, is it not? Get it from the dealer or online source. I know it is expensive, but you probably won't be replacing it again.

 

Which ATF? Up to you, but I like synthetics myself. Mobil 1 is a good product IMO.

 

Commuter

[hklaine]

I haven't owned an AT since my '90 but that car had an AT drain plug. Is this no longer installed in the Subaru AT's?

 

-Heikki

[cookie]

to the radiator and pick up from one container with the proper amount of fluid?You could run the other container to a recyling can.When I have done this to a car with a no drain plug pan myself I have pulled the pan, welded in a drainplug, and changed the internal filter. I've never actually flushed one as I have usually only done a few transmission services in the life of the car.

[Setright]

I like Cookie's idea. Let the transmission drink the brand new fluid as it purges the old stuff out!

 

You'd need someone on hand to switch off the engine before you empty bottle of new fluid and get air the system.

[Commuter]

Can anyone tell me...

 

Does the Subaru 4EAT pump the ATF thru the cooling lines constantly? Or does a certain temperature have to be reached? Will the return line "suction" in the new fluid, or does it only flow by virtue of the "push" from the outgoing line? (Which you no longer have if you disconnected it to pump out the old fluid.) Further still, is the cooling line a "push" or "pull" set up? (I was obviously thinking push with my comments.)

 

Just wondering. My 97 OB is the first car I've had with an automatic. So far, I've just let the dealer drain and refill the fluid (with synthetic). As a DIY'er, you sure don't want to slip up and have the ATF run low or suck air etc. Makes for a darn expensive fluid change.

 

Commuter

[cookie]

If I recall there is usually pressure going one way on these from the output line. You would have to feed it by an electric fuel pump to do this. Perhaps gravity would do the job if you had the filler higher than the pan. This why these forums are good since other folks think of possible problems with an idea.

[floater]

I used Redline ATF. I drained some of the old non synthetic, added synthetic, drove some and did this twice. I like synthetic mainly for freezing temp driving when the AT seems to shift more stiffly. Most likely when your driving and the non synthetic trans fluid is not warmed up and flowing Im guessing your getting wear. Trans sure seems smoother.

[viceversa]

Does Walmart sell tranny fluid which would work in Outback?

[Edward]

After starting out on a trip in the mountains, we noticed smoke coming from the exhaust system underneath the tranny area. Evidently the silicone seal is leaking. I called the dealer about a gasket and filter and they told me that unless the fluid has been burnt, they don't recommend changing the filter. The filter is pricey, $31.58. Also, they told me that the pan is designed to just use silicone and not a gasket as I've used on other makes of cars. You forum members that have done this, do you just use silicone and do you let it harden before tightening the pan bolts? Is there a torque setting for the pan bolts? I have about 67,000 miles on this car and what would your advice be as far as changing this filter? Do you have any recommendations on what silicone to use? Thank you guys! BTW, this is a 2000 Outback.

 

Ed

[Edward]

deleted post

[Setright]

Torque:

 

I don't know the exact values for the Sube tranny, but what size are the bolts?

 

Generally, 6mm thread diameter goes up to ca. 12Nm

8mm would handle ca. 25Nm - 20Nm in aluminium

 

I reckon that you should apply a thin silicone bead, like 3mm, and let it dry for about 20 minutes. Tighten the pan in steps, and criss cross around the center to get it to load up evenly.

Your main concern is to avoid pressing the silicone bead into the pan getting little bits of it contaminating your transmission.

[Edward]

Thanks Setright, I don't know what size the threads are. I've never seen a pan not have a gasket though. I guess this is some of that newer high tech stuff.

[viceversa]

It sounds like too much trouble doing it 3 times in a row. Silicon.. .gasket... it scares me I will do something wrong one of these times and it will leak all the fluid out.

Is it worth it, or is it better to take it to a shop for a pro flush?