Steering gear (tie rod) boot torn

[outback_97]

I was checking under the car this weekend, and I noticed that the boot on my tie rod, aka steering gear boot, was torn. No idea how long this has been like that, haven't crawled around under the car for a while.

 

Does this need to be repaired immediately? Will my steering be ruined if not? I have noticed no adverse effects from this. I ask because I'd like to get new rotors (they're getting too warped and have already been turned once IIRC) and I'd like to combine the jobs. Also, is there a replacement boot that one could use that doesn't require removal of the tie rod end? Or is that a bad idea?

 

Thanks for any advice you can give.

 

Steve

[Andyjo]

Well think of it this way, it's most likely been torn for a long time, if you haven't been under that offten, both my boots are torn, and i just haven't gotten around to getting new ones. I would be great to have them changed, just incase, but your stearing system will still work, there isn't any major mechanical use for them.

To replace them you have to disconnect the tir-rod from the knuckle, drop it down, then you can slide it off. I believe Haynes says to take off the end, and take the threads to prevent damaging the new boot when putting it on.

If there's no noticable 'crunchyness' in the stearing you're most likely fine, unless you like to pay in the mud, once that gets in there.. well.. problems may arrise.

[yohy]

outback_97,

 

The boot protects the ball and socket joint on the inner tie rod end. My advice, change the boot before you need to change the inner tie rod end, it’s the old once of prevention. From experience, the inner tie rod end is a bit of a pain to change, while the boot is fairly straightforward. Again, my $.02. Oh, if the ball and socket joint is worn, you will get a clunking sound from that side, if it frozen up, it creates a crunching sound.

[outback_97]

Thanks for the advice!

 

I do need to take care of it pretty soon. No noises yet though. I called a local shop and they suggested pretty much the same thing... they called it a "dust boot" and said that's pretty much what it's there for. $30 part and $80 labor to remove the old one and replace with new. Then of course an alignment.

 

I also need new front rotors as they are pulsing / vibrating pretty noticeably now. I'm considering a DIY on that although I haven't done it before. Doesn't look to complicated, I'm just worried about things being corroded tight.

 

Thanks again for the info.

 

Steve

[Andyjo]

i don't think you need to remove enough stuff to require an allignment...

[yohy]

outback_97,

 

Save the $80 and do it yourself, very basic, the only hard part is breaking loose the outer tie rod end. You can either use the “hit it hard with a hammer” method or rent, borrow or buy a tool made specifically that purpose. Before you separate the outer end, loosen the lock nut on the inner tie end, the one for the alignment adjustment. Here is where you can save yourself the cost of realignment. Mark (with paint or a Sharpie) the point at which the inner tie rod threads into the outer tie rod, this is the adjustment point for toe in/out. You can also count the number of turns when you separate the inner and outer tie rods, then just make certain to recount the turns when you assemble. When you get things back together, as long as this relationship is kept the same, you won’t need to realign.

 

OK, so you separate the outer tie rod end, twist the outer tie rod off of the inner tie rod, slip off the old boot (or just cut it off), put the new boot on (protect the boot from the threads on the inner tie rod end, either by placing electrical tape or put grease on the threads). The inner side of the boot is held by a spring while a clip holds the smaller outer end. I had to fight to get the spring on and found it easier to slide the spring on first, then the boot, then fight to get the spring over the boot rather than putting the spring on the boot first and then trying to get the boot/spring in place. Any how, once the boot is on and secured, screw the outer tie rod into the inner tie rod making certain to get the two back together in the same relationship (total length), if you are careful, you will not need a realignment. Then torque the lock nut and the outer ball joint, don’t forget the cotter pin and you just saved $80.

[outback_97]

Usually I defer things like brakes and steering to a shop, with the reasoning that these are "mission critical" items, whereas things like stereo equipment (which I typically do myself) won't get me or others killed if they fail. But it really does sound pretty simple, I'm considering doing this one, and the rotors, myself. Of course I would check it out in a safe area before blasting down the freeway, and in the case of the rotors follow the "break-in" procedure. Thanks for the detailed info, yohy.

 

This might be a dumb question, but here goes: should I turn the steering wheel one way or the other to make this job any easier, or should it just be in the center (wheels straight) position when doing the boot replacement? And is there a specific grease or lubricant recommended? Thanks again.

 

Steve

[yohy]

I can appreciate the “mission critical” aspect, but if you were going to replace rotors, the dust boot is no more difficult, really. As for steering wheel placement, just rotate the steering to give you the best shot at whatever you’re working on. If you are going to replace the rotors, you will be removing the caliper support, which means breaking loose two larger bolts. With this, you will rotate the steering wheel to give you the best shot at getting on the heads of the bolts, as you will more than likely need a longer bar to get them loose. Now to your question, “is there a specific grease or lubricant recommended”, nothing needed as the boot is really just a “dust shield”.

[outback_97]

Thanks, looking forward to expanding the short list of things I have fixed on our cars (assuming all goes well).

 

I'm gonna try this out, local dealership will have four boots in stock Thursday (about thirty bucks for the one I need), and I just ordered two Brembo rotors and new brake pads from tirerack.com for about the cost of two OEM rotors. I have the Haynes manual and there's some writeups on Scoobymods, Ravensblade, and Nasioc. Have the book learnin' now just need the real world good stuff.

 

The sad thing is I'm already plotting how to spend the money I will save from doing it myself if this goes smoothly. D'oh!

 

I'll be sure to post how it goes. Once again USMB earns a !

 

Steve

[yohy]

My suggestion (again my $.02) is to invest some of your savings into new tools, like: http://centralonlinesales.com/show_Product.asp?ID=587, go for this style versus the “pickle fork” style as they are much easier on the boots. After that, perhaps a torque wrench as every bolt you will remove will have a spec for re-assembly.

 

Best of luck and if you need any further support pm me.

[outback_97]

Would this work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36861

 

It's a different design, but there's a local HF store.

 

Torque wrench would be a good idea, I do have the option of borrowing that from work though, pretty much anytime I want to. The Haynes manual lists torque specs, hopefully they're accurate.

 

Side note: my order from Tirerack shipped yesterday evening, even though I just ordered it yesterday afternoon. I'm impressed so far with their service.

 

Steve

[Andyjo]

i just tap the top of the tie-rod w/ a hammer... pops right out... i guess you're not 'supposed' to do it that way.. but it worked for me!

i think the hardest part of throwing on a new rotor is getting the brake plate off (the thing the caliper bolts to).

i had to bring my car into the shop to have them break em out of there, drilled & tapped em when they broke. eh.

[yohy]

outback_97, yep that would do, but again, as Andyjo has mentioned, the old hammer method also works. My problem is being a tool junkie, plus I was never good at breaking tapered joints loose with a hammer. Now Andyjo mentions having problems with the caliper support bolts, my suggestion is to soak them good with penetrating fluid (I like PB Penetrating Catalyst) a day or two before you do the job, then a 6 point socket and a long bar. The torque specs on those bolts (at least for my 97 Legacy) is 58+/-7 ft-lb, so if they haven’t been broken loose before, get ready to use some force.

 

Sounds as if you have prepared yourself well. Again if you need torque specs or other info, pm me and I can supply them. I would imaging your OB would have the same specs as my L.

[subie94]

i just tap the top of the tie-rod w/ a hammer... pops right out... i guess you're not 'supposed' to do it that way.. but it worked for me!

.

 

i do it that way also but i leave the castle nut on halfway.(so as to not damage threads by accident)

 

i'm now thinking i'm gonna need tie-rods due to the fact that i'm getting a crunching sound from the 92's front-end when ever i turn or ride over a un-even spot in road...

 

(just noticed the date of last post)

[kriles]

k

Edited November 6, 2015 by kriles