deuce Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 Okay, 89 GL wagon spfi. I had the check engine light coming on this week, so I checked the code, and it flashed 35 (purge control solenoid or cicuit). Okay fine, I button things back up and put two new acc. belts on while I was working on things. I have not done anything about the purge solenoid at this point. I went to start the car, and NOTHING. It just makes a slight clicking sound from what seems to be the ECM. I check codes again, and I am getting a 11 and a 13. Both are Crank Angle Sensor codes. I have a distributor. What's wrong? It started fine before all of this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 clean up the battery cables, it sounds like a loose or corroded connection, either coke or baking soda+ water, (the arm and hammer stuff) on your battery towers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deuce Posted June 20, 2005 Author Share Posted June 20, 2005 I actually did that, but it's not that kind of clicking. It is a slower click coming from what seems like the ecm. Like I said, it started fine before all of this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 Make sure the small wire on the positive battery post is ok. Also check the fusible links in the box mounted on the coolant reservoir for a bad connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deuce Posted June 20, 2005 Author Share Posted June 20, 2005 I checked the fusible links next to the resevoir. Nothing was messed with except swapping v-belts. It was after I pulled the codes that the clicking noise became apparent and the starting problem began. Is the ECM acting up? And, why the crank angle codes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 you are getting the crank angle code because you pulled the code when the car is not running. is your clicking at regular intervals? if the green plugs are connected this will cycle the fuel pump, the clicking you hear should be the fuel pump relay or is this click when you turn the key. have you tried jumping the starter solenoid? maybe your problem is a bad ignition switch, a common problem especially with automatics but if your problem arises from working on the car, double check and make surte you didnt leave something disconnected or knocked loose check to see if the coil wire is connected. also check to see if the starter solenoid is connected toes the car turn over but not fire or not turn over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deuce Posted June 20, 2005 Author Share Posted June 20, 2005 The clicking is at regular intervals about a second or slightly less apart. It is present while in the start position with the key and the on position. No diagnostic wires are connected. The clicking sounds and feels like it comes from the ECM (if I put my hand on it). It also sounds as if it is going through all sensors, solenoids, relays and checking them. Is there a way to check the ECM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deuce Posted June 20, 2005 Author Share Posted June 20, 2005 Getting away from the starting problem for a second. The original problem was the purge control solenoid. Parts stores don't have it and the dealer wants $158. I thought about going to the local junkyard and pulling a few. Is there a way to test them? Second, am I taking a chance at getting a spare ECM from a junkyard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 The ECM has no control of the starter motor. You need to check for power getting to the starter solenoid. This is the small wire to the solenoid. If you have an automatic and no power to the solenoid then the inhibit switch in the shifter area may be the problem. You could see if the starter will work with the shifter in neutral. If it does then the inhibit switch is the problem. If there is power getting to the solenoid wire and the solenoid doesn't work then there is a problem with the solenoid. As far as testing the valves, you should be able to supply them with 12 volts and see if they work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deuce Posted June 20, 2005 Author Share Posted June 20, 2005 Okay, I did some removal and cleaning, and replaced the purge solenoid. I can now get it started, but there seems to be a very slight delay from when I turn the key to start, and it actually starting. Ignition switch? And if so would it be the whole tumbler unit or just the switch itself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 I would use a test light probe to check the voltage with to see what is causing this. It may be the solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KStretch55 Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 Solenoid rebuild kit is 13.99 at Schucks. I just did one. Make sure if you do that you put the side terminals in so they are level and make full contact with the center terminal. I rebuilt mine last week, but my starter is still intermittant. I think the brush assys on the motor may be shot or the bearings need lube/replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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