CyclopsFolkLore Posted June 26, 2005 Share Posted June 26, 2005 I replaced the water pump, and about 3 weeks later i was constantly running hot, very quickly, within about 4-5 miles down the road. I replaced the thermostat, fan clutch, and radioator trying to eliminate the problem, with no help. I also noticed the other day that my oil pressure is at around 0 at idle, then goes up to about 45 when rev'ing the engine. I was thinking about replacing the oil pump to see if that helps, but after that, i cant think of anything it might be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted June 26, 2005 Share Posted June 26, 2005 That's normal for oil pressure at full operating temp. If you dont hear the lifters clicking or lower end knocking then you got enough oil pressure Was the radiator, water pump, and thermostat replaced with new parts or used parts? Did you put the thermostat in upside down? Have you replaced the radiator cap with a new one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CyclopsFolkLore Posted June 26, 2005 Author Share Posted June 26, 2005 The radiator and fan clutch was out of the junk yard, thermostat and water pump brand new. I can check on the thermostat right now, which way does the spring face? i belive i put it in facing down. didnt put a new radiator cap on. The problem started after the water pump, and the rest of the stuff was replaced to try and solve the problem, with the exception of the thermostat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 The spring end of the T-Stat goes down into the intake manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 subarus are tricky to fill coolant and get the air out, wait till it warms up to operating temp and the thermostat opens(feel the radiator to see when its warm, or upper hose) and top off any coolant she will take. sometimes it takes a fill 10 or 15 minutes to wait for air to escape when filling. try this first since other problems are basically eliminated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 when i fill my radiator i fill as much coolant as possible in first, then drive to the nearest hill, with at least a 30 degree angle and park. with the car running i fill the radiator, i found that raising the front of the car 16'' isnt enough so that is what i do. this way the heater core gets filled first and radiator last, and make sure to let car run for a bit on hill after you think all the air is out, chances are there will be more. if you still have overheating issues, it might be something else, such as head gaskets. ~Josh~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 I would be somewhat concerned about that JY radiator. Assuming the t-stat is OK, it would be where I would start checking to see if it is flowing. If you have a mechanical fan, can I assume that you have Air Conditioning? What you would need to do with the radiator is feel across the radiator core, top to bottom, feeling for cold regions which indicate plugged tubes. If you have A/C you will need to pull the electric fan (BTW, does this work???) in order to touch the core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 Hopefully the problem is not due to bad head gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my toy Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 the best way i found for bleeding air out is to put one of them flush valves in the heater hose. just take cap off and fill to fluid comes out . just top off later it wont need much. it sounds like the radiator you put in isnt cooling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 My best guess are the radiator or the water pump. Junkyard radiators are questionable at best. I only grab them if they look brand new. I mean no discoloration and the stickers still on it. I've been given a really crappy re-maned pump before; the thing barely spun over by hand. Make sure the pump they gave you is good. Should turn freely by hand and have no fore to aft play. Slip the belt off, grab the pully, and check it out. As noted above make sure your thermostat is in properly and all air is bled out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 I have had a similar problem...found that it was grounding. when I lifted the car, a couple of the ground wires that go from the engine to the body were pulled off. I have the mechanical fan removed, and electric fan manually switched, and it doesn't seem to make much difference whether it's on, I'm moving or anything, only how hard the car works. this led me to beleive that there wasn't enough electical 'flow' to allow the t-stat to open, so one day when it was doing this, I let it warm up, and squeezed my rad hoses. and found that there was no pressure to the radiator. found that wire (the one right next to the battery), touched it to the alternator bracket, and spark, and the thing cooled off pretty quickly. maybe you pulled off that wire putting in the radiator....it's worth a try! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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