My GL-10 is SICK

[DoughtCom]

Well now that I've had more time to determine it's problems.. I'm now aware of the trouble I'm in.

 

1.) (Valve Clicking) When I start my car.... it clicks for maybe 2 clicks then it sounds like the oil pressure rises then it goes away. Well after driving it for 15 minutes or so, long enough for it to get as hot as it's going to get. The engine starts to feel rough and the valve clicking gets REALLY loud. I mean REALLY loud. Especially at idle.

 

2.) (Overheating?) I believed this could be the cause of the engine running rough, since I didn't have a working temp gauge. Well I bought a 3rd party one, and replaced the dash sensor. It stays at about 190-205. Which is normal. After I stop my car after driving it for 15 minutes. I SWEAR I hear water boiling. I'm fairly confident I don't have any air bubbles and there's water bubbling out into the reservoir, I've topped it off over the past 2 days.

 

3.) (The worse... Metal Shavings) I changed the oil to 20w50 as people suggested the other day, and when I drained the oil.... to my surprise.... I saw what looked like shiny dust. I'm assuming this is metal shavings. POSSIBLY caused by the oil pressure (Problem #1) or Oil Temperature and the oil running thin.

 

NOW with saying all of this... is it too late to even think about fixing this thing? WHERE should I start? Preferably cheap since this thing could be screwed.

 

ANY suggestions would be highly appreciated, since I'm sad about this car possibly being screwed up.

[reoff]

Are you letting your car cool down after driving it even moderately hard??? The turbo needs at least 2min to start maintaining a reasonable temp. If you don't let it cool... all that EXTREMELY hot coolant is just sitting in the even hotter turbo and making its way to your engine(specifically heads). Not knowing this is why i cracked BOTH of the heads in my '86 GL-10 turbowagon. My advice... make sure it isn't something minor, and then buy a good used or rebuild engine and be careful in the future.

 

NOTE: In the summer (hot weather) it can take much longer for things to cool down

 

Rich

[Turbone]

Normally the cool down period for the turbo is so that the oil circulating will cool off and not produce whats called "coke" in the bearings. Reoff, I think you might have had other issues that led to you cracking both heads. You might have Gen 1 heads that are prone to cracking. I would get a bottle of MMO, maybe 2 for 2 oil changes. It might help the valve ticking. The bubbling could be air in the heater lines, its common.

Rob

[GeneralDisorder]

Replace your oil pump - the MMO will help as Turbone sugested, but for most people it seems to be temporary. A lot of people have replaced their oil pump, and had the ticking go away for good. With enough pressure, your valves should stop complaining. $60 or $70 for a new pump and seals sounds a lot better than a new engine. And if it does turn out to be that the engine is lunch, then you'll have a new pump for your next used engine.

 

GD

[DoughtCom]

ok, my main question/concern is.... once you start seeing the metal shavings at all, lets just say it started happening. Is the engine already toast?

[archemitis]

well how many miles? is your turbo smoking at all? hows the oil pressure on the guage? the turbo could be wearing out and scraping aluminum off the side of the compressor and shooting it into your cylinders. it might be your turbo eating itself. then you'de be cool with a new turbo

did you ever make it over to morgans house? i could take a look at it sometime.

[DoughtCom]

Hey dude.... ironically I'm heading there RIGHT now.... I was just checking the board before going over there! Give him a call if you want. I'll be there in 30 minutes. I have to leave at 2PM so I should be there for a bit.

 

Peace