ErikAnderson Posted July 4, 2005 Share Posted July 4, 2005 My 82 brat Gl is having issues when in idle. Especially when i am slowing down, or stoped on anything but level ground. RPMs will *slowly* struggle and drop down to stall over about 8-10 seconds. Car runs like a champ when in gear. I changed out the fuel filters (both front and back), cleaned out the carburator with some spray carb cleaner, took off the air filter assembly and cleaned out all the lines and valves that are attached to that, and replaced the air filters. What is next? Is the carburator sick? Thanks alot. erik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 There is a screw that you can turn to raise the idle a bit. When I bought it the idle was like 2000, I turned it down to pass emissions, then turned it up a bit. May have to tighten the screw a bit more. I knew I forgot something (to send up with you) I have the old carb out of my old brat (died when cold, but ran great warm... like after afew blocks of driving) probably not worth shipping up though. I really dont see this car needing a new carb after it gave me faithful service for the months that I had it. The carb really should be sound on the car considering passing emissions and its great MPG that you got. For reference if anyone asks, it has the carter weber carb, not the Hitachi carb. If you ever decide to make the performance jump, a weber 32/36 DGEV can be fitted. I can give you pics of the green brats setup so you see how to hook all the stuff up (especially the throttle linkage) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikAnderson Posted July 5, 2005 Author Share Posted July 5, 2005 do i have to do anything else once i raise the idle? it seems to only do it when i am slowing down or on a slope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 Maybe something with the float in the carb could be causing issues? Maybe its set wrong? I dont think adjusting the idle will fix the problem permanantly or properly, but it will make it easier to drive til you get to the bottom of it. Sorry little things are popping up. It was good to me, though now that I think of it, I did carry a screwdriver with me when I delivered pizza. so ya turn up the idle 1/4 turn or maybe a bit more. Just see what happens. Write down what you do so you can turn it back later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 Sounds to me like the float or the needle valve. Do you hear any sound from the carb other than the hiss of it drarwing air, such as a snapping sound, if so, gas is making it past the needle valve of the float overfilling the bowl. Try pinching-off the main fuel line to the carb with a pair of wide-jaw pliers, if the idle straightens up, your problem lies with the float/needle valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikAnderson Posted July 5, 2005 Author Share Posted July 5, 2005 so i should start looking for a rebuild kit eh? i wonder how hard those are to find. erik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roosofallevil Posted July 7, 2005 Share Posted July 7, 2005 Hate to disagree with these guys, but sounds like a vacumn leak to me or an internal leak sucking coolant. Something would cause the need for a carb adjustment and Ive had 2 ea81s lose a gasket on the intake at about 250k and start sucking coolant they idled rough and when you try to accelerate they hesitate. Spray it around the intake where it mounts to the heads with WD40 and listen to the engine if it races its sucking air. ROOSOFALLEVIL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikAnderson Posted July 7, 2005 Author Share Posted July 7, 2005 i will try that. today it drove great until it got warm, i drove all around the neighborhood with little to no problem, only thing was that idle would dip down under 1k when i stoped at intersections and it would get rough for a second but that was it. I took it out on this drive because i found Spark plug#1 to be finger tight.... So after taking it on a confidence run i decided to drive across town to wally world and buy some more plugs. Once i came back out and started it up, it stalled on every intersection or any time i put it in idle pretty much. Any more suggestions? am i running on 3cyl? how can i check? should i change my plug wires also? I dont know if its normal operation is considered "poor" simply because this is the only brat i have owned, but i drove it up from portland (270mi) last week and it felt great. Oh, i also found a vac line in the air cleaner assembly to be bent shut.. its a little 2 inch loop hose that comes in the cleaner assembly and goes right out. it had colapesd... So i got a vac line off of one of my turbos (i am a WRX guy also) and put it on, this seemed to help idle a little bit. holy crap its a pain in the rump roast to learn a new car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted July 7, 2005 Share Posted July 7, 2005 If you do decide to change to the weber carb... the good thing is you remove almost all the vac lines. I ended up doing that on my wagon (and other brat)because I was plagued with leaky lines. The bad thing is engineering the throttle linkage. the other bad thing is you need to get a hitachi carb intake manifold. (about $10 on here) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikAnderson Posted July 9, 2005 Author Share Posted July 9, 2005 If you do decide to change to the weber carb... the good thing is you remove almost all the vac lines. I ended up doing that on my wagon (and other brat)because I was plagued with leaky lines. The bad thing is engineering the throttle linkage. the other bad thing is you need to get a hitachi carb intake manifold. (about $10 on here) i took my egr valve off and found it totally clogged up with soot. i soaked it for a while and chipped away at it in both the valve and on the motor. by totally clogged i mean it looked like soot was fully injected in to the valve and left to harden. could this possibly be the problem? erik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikAnderson Posted July 9, 2005 Author Share Posted July 9, 2005 i took my egr valve off and found it totally clogged up with soot.i soaked it for a while and chipped away at it in both the valve and on the motor. by totally clogged i mean it looked like soot was fully injected in to the valve and left to harden. could this possibly be the problem? erik nope, still doing it. so i pulled out the carb, i cannot find a rebuild kit for it so i am going to look in to replacing it my self. ANY advice on this subject would be nice. erik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted July 9, 2005 Share Posted July 9, 2005 Replacing carb: Get a hitachi manifold, a subaru "EA81" weber carb adapter from www.bowwow.com and a weber 32/36 DGEV carb from www.carbsunlimited.com You will gain several HP from the weber swap. PLEASE be careful when you remove the intake manfold. If you are not patient you can break off the intake bolts, especially if they have never been removed before. I broke one on my green brat and I ended up having to remove the head and take it to a shop to get the bolt extracted. With this new carb setup you will not need to change your throttle cable if you do the installation the way I did mine. Some people do it another way and run a longer cable. I will take pictures of "my way" if you want to see it. (welding required to attach linkage for cable to pass through to part that bolts to the carb) A picture is worth 1000 words here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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