88glwagaroo Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 i have everything including the dual range 5 spd..car is already a standard with ea82 carb. also would like to install spfi if i can Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeldr Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 it should not be that difficult. make sure you have clearing for all linkage. remove all rear suspension and install and new 4wd suspension. change your exhaust with the 4wd centerpipe and put tranny in. you can either make a single driveline or you can weld in the center bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 everything will bolt on, you have to change out the tube frame to accomodate the diff mount, have to drill holes for the hanger and use long bolts, and fabricate a mount for the carrier since it wint be there on a fwd body Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 not to mention youre going to need the 4WD gas tank, it has a divet in it for the rear diff. the frame should have some or most of the mounting holes for the 4WD stuff, make sure you can get easy access to the donor car, you will need some stuff that we cant remmeber right now im sure. its not too hard, just laborious, a hand would go a long way in your project. ~Josh~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 ea82 uses the same gas tank for both 2wd and 4wd. this need not apply for an 86 sedan. contrary, ea81 2wd bodies have the holes for the diff hanger but ea82 does not here are the dimensions for the carrier mount, if you search you may find it but these dimensions are STANDARD FOR BOTH EA81 AND EA82 ALIKE flat strip of steel from the hardware store, about 1/8" thick and roughly 2 1/2 to 3 inches wide. another strip of flat steel, 1/4" thick and 1 to 1 1/2 inches wide. cut out 2 lengths 4 inches long. drill a hole about the same size as the carrier bearing mount bolts within the last inch of each piece, on one end each. you can be selective on what steel you use but here is the hard dimensions: your piece of steel will be 12 inches long. mark for 2 holes 10 inches apart on center to the 12 inch piece. the holes will be drilled out for the size bolts you use, about 1/2" hole the other small pieces of steel bolt them to the carrier bearing with bolts similar in diameter as the carrier bearing mounting bolts, the bolts will have to be long enough to go thru with a nut. install the bolts so the heads are on top and the nut on the bottom you will notice that one side of the carrier bearing mount is lower than the other. bolt your strips so that one is on top the low side and below the high side. line up the carrier to the 12 inch piece so it is centered, and that the end of the small steel is even with the far edge of the 12 inch piece, so that they overlap the topside of the 12 inch piece completely. weld the pieces together now that your carrier assembly is fabricated(with the front half of the driveshaft and carrier bearing bolted to) install the yoke end of the driveshaft into the tranny, and use a jack to butt the assembly flat against the bottom of the car and center it. the length of the driveshaft will place it properly. the short pieces welded to the 12 inch piece will be on the topside of the 12 inch piece and within the tranny tunnel, and the assembly will be perfectly flat against the bottom of the car remove the center console and lift up the carpet around the parking brake lever and pull it back what it can move. it is not necessary to completely remove the carpet, this is at your discretion. you may cut the middle of the carpet that lies under the console if you wish now, use the pre-drilled holes to drill thru the hole exactly where they are, as the driveshaft locates the assembly. the holes will be exactly between the corner of the rail that the front of the seat bolts to, and the tranny tunnel. install the bolt with a large 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 flat washer through the holes so they come through the assembly and install the nut. when the nut is tightened the washer will conform to its corner and the nut can be tightened down from underneath and the washer will hold the head still! i suggest using lockwashers on the bolts. this design works for both ea82 and ea81 with 5spd 4x4 trannies, and since both vehicles have the same wheelbase the carrier will be the common point for location, even with automatics with their respective driveshaft, the carrier is always in the same place i have built 2 of these mounts, the first one was on an ea81. it was fabricated on the spot with stuff laying around, built around the car itself. that car was parted out and the SAME MOUNT was installed on an ea82 and it fit the same. the next mount was built for an ea82 to generic dimensions, which are the ones listed above and it also fits exactly the same. the generic dimensions are sure and simple and work for both bodies ask 86subaru or thealleyboy as thes 2 examples i have built are in their cars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88glwagaroo Posted July 13, 2005 Author Share Posted July 13, 2005 sorry for taking so long to reply----i just finished installing another engine in the 86 because for some reason sometimes it would miss at idle then it would smooth out or again would miss throughout the range of tach---had to add quart of coolant evervy two weeks but good compression readings on all fours cylinders---i replaced everything (i mean everything and it still sputtered) --- so now i can at least drive it till i get time to convert it the new motor has 264000 and runs perfecto except for the nagging oil leaks for which they our famous for --- by the way i saw a post with the saying if it aint broke don't fix it-well it ain't broke no more but i will break it again --- just wait Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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