Chris W. Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 93 Loyale, 140K. I rebuilt the oil pump 32K mile ago, the dreaded ticking has started... Can I rebuild again, or should I replace it? Thanks for your input Cheers, Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobmater Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 i would say replace it, its gettin old. p.s. i am in the process of replacing mine, i thought i was gona have it done today, but i guess tomaro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyromanic Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 On days I can afford it, I like new stuff. On the off days, I rebuild. Some days are so bad, have to use used. Pyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 93 Loyale, 140K. I rebuilt the oil pump 32K mile ago, the dreaded ticking has started... Can I rebuild again, or should I replace it? Thanks for your input Cheers, Chris Interesting question to me.... My car ticks randomly presice. The dramatic change from february to june (Maine weather IS brutal.As of the end of june, our temp range is almost 120 degrees F.) My car also ticks very close to a day after California decides to shake around 5 or above on the richter. My car also ticks when lightning gets a bit too close. The socond soob I've owned in 9 years and I get identical results....It also ticks (even with 5w30) at 10 degrees F or below , sometimes for Minutes! My car ticks for short times after a waxing, cleaning, oil change, antifreeze change, hauling something (after a full cool down).My car ticked after adding 30+ ft electrical wire for speakers. it ticked for 5 cold starts after changing alternator. The biggest ticker maker I've had has been the 2 timing belts changed(that took a week and at least a dozen starts.) It also ticked when plugs, wires and cap were changed. my car has 138k, 93 loyale. It takes a licking and .... only does ticking for a little while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 Mine tics for a day or so every time it comes down off my 8" ramps- regardless of what, if anything, is done to it. 91 Loyale, 190, original oil pump, no rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hush777 Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 They are pretty cheap down at Bow-Wow Chris. Call and talk to Paul, tell him I sent you. I am rebuilding a turbo wagon for my old lady and am getting a new one for it, and also got rebuilt HLA's for it from mizpah precision for it. $5.75 each if you get them just shipped to you. $4 if you send them a core. http://www.mizpahprecision.com/ Hush Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
operose Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 They are pretty cheap down at Bow-Wow Chris.Call and talk to Paul, tell him I sent you. I am rebuilding a turbo wagon for my old lady and am getting a new one for it, and also got rebuilt HLA's for it from mizpah precision for it. $5.75 each if you get them just shipped to you. $4 if you send them a core. http://www.mizpahprecision.com/ Hush does anyone know if these are the same HLA's used in ER27's? I thought I remember people paying like $12 for these suckers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hush777 Posted July 11, 2005 Share Posted July 11, 2005 mailto:mizpah@paulbunyan.net is their email. Give them a holler. 1-218 897-5922 is their phone # Hush Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 11, 2005 Share Posted July 11, 2005 the EA82 lifters will work in your XT6 derrick. the cap will likely look slightly different, but it will work. the EA82 and ER27 have the same basic setup, just twice as much hardware in the valve train. to the original poster, by *rebuild the oil pump* what does that mean? did you replace the seal AND the oring/block gasket? everything should be replaced, if you skipped any then it will need to be done again. the oil pump gasket (between engine and oil pump) tends to want to get sucked into one of the two ports. there is a crazy rump roast way to fix this, but i haven't done it yet. basically you can insert a metal tube in the oil pump ports that will prevent the oring from getting sucked into the port. i haven't needed to do it, but know someone who has and it was an interesting solution. and a new pump is fine as well. they can fail so if you can buy new then do it. once i get my daily driver i'm throwing a new oil pump at it (has 220,000 miles on it, rebuilt once around 150,000). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W. Posted July 12, 2005 Author Share Posted July 12, 2005 Thanks all! Looks like I'll be rebuilding again, yes "all" the seals and gaskets were replaced last time, worked pretty good the first time, should be no big deal to do it again. Hush, I'll give Bow-Wow a call, and for sure drop your name Cheers, Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 I've resealed mine once in 200,000 miles. Still on the original housing and impeller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KStretch55 Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 Most manuals have the allowable dimensions for the inner and outer rotors listed. Of course, the trouble is once you have it out, measure it and find it out of limits, you're stuck until you can find a replacement. I did some checking around in anticipation of changing mine a while back, and I couldn't find anyone who sold the oversized rotors. So, I asked around here on the board and couldn't find anyone who had ever had one wear enough to need replacement. So, I just got the seal kit from Schucks and went that way. I did find that one of "mickeys ears" on the mickey mouse gasket wasn't round anymore. Part of it was smashed or sucked in toward the center. Since replacing it I haven't had low oil pressure indication like I did occasionally before. I think the idea of some sleeves for those to ports is excellent!! I'm going to be pulling an engine one of these days and I think while I'm at it I'll measure them and have a machinist friend see what he can come up with. Hush, does Bow Wow carry a lot of the common Sub stuff? I've got a CV shaft there once and they pretty helpful, but I always forget about them cuz' they're kinda out of my way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W. Posted July 17, 2005 Author Share Posted July 17, 2005 I was just reading in another post about "having to get into the front end of the motor every 30k anyway", and it occurred to me that I may as well tear into the whole front end as long as I'm pulling the oil pump. I didn't replace the water pump with the last timing belt change (35k ago), so I might as well do that too! Thanks all for the input, Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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