ausubaru92 Posted July 10, 2005 Share Posted July 10, 2005 I bought a parts car that ran up the side of a cattle grid (89 MPFI Touring Wagon) so i can hopefully MPFI my wagon The front end is stuffed (mostly to the left side) so i pulled off the radiator and surrounding parts I connected the battery with ignition on, the oil light comes on, the fuel pump cycles on and off, the ecu flashes 7 short flashes, and the purge solenoid clicks on and off I tried to start it and it cranks, there is a fuel smell from exhaust but no fire, obviously spark prob Suggestions Please Gannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausubaru92 Posted July 11, 2005 Author Share Posted July 11, 2005 Bump Any Suggestions Guys Gannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted July 11, 2005 Share Posted July 11, 2005 Make sure the coil is wired up properly; it's easy to wire it up backwards. Check for spark at the coil. If you have a solid spark from the coil then check for spark on plug 1. If you have spark on plug 1 then double check the fire order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausubaru92 Posted July 12, 2005 Author Share Posted July 12, 2005 Thanks morgan, but the engine hasnt been touched since it crashed, only thing is the wire loom that runs around the front of the car got crushed in one place. i fixed the broken wire but it still may need attention. I wont get a chance to look at it till the weekend Thanks Gannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 look under the dash. the fuel pump is cycling on and off because the green test connectors are plugged in. these green connectors should be un-plugged for normal operation try hotwiring the coil + terminal to the battery. the ign will come on wether the key is on or off doing this. this will supply yhe coil directly, see if she will fire by doing this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausubaru92 Posted July 13, 2005 Author Share Posted July 13, 2005 Im new to EFI, there are 2 sets of plugs under the dash, black ones and green ones. Whats what? So I just connect from the positive battery to the positive side of the coil, what does this override? Cheers Gannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 If I remember correctly the black ones are for getting the trouble codes and the green ones are for doing diagnostic troubleshooting. Here is a link that gives the code descriptions. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ If you don't have any spark, the most common problem is with the CAS not getting signal to the ECU for some reason. Be sure to check the fuses, especially #5, or see if the horn works since it is powered through that fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausubaru92 Posted July 16, 2005 Author Share Posted July 16, 2005 Yippee it starts:banana: It was the wire that was damaged in the crash, it was the black/white wire from the coil. repaired it and all is good Now i have to fab up something to cool the engine in the absence of a radiator I am thinking i will use a 200ltr plastic drum plumbed to the cooing system to store water which will be pumped between the engine and drum Thanks for your help,. much appreciated Gannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoorManzImpreza Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 Hey Gannon, Could you possibly take pictures of the engine wiring harness routing for me? Since your car is RHD..and most of the cars on here are lefties Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausubaru92 Posted July 16, 2005 Author Share Posted July 16, 2005 Yeah im takin pics today Im also makin a dl10 sort of car, are there any special things i should know about changin the elecrtic locks and windows ect before i do it. (i have already converted to the GL dash) Gannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoorManzImpreza Posted July 17, 2005 Share Posted July 17, 2005 converting the car to power windows and locks is fairly straight forward..just need to grab the complete door harness for each door and rear gate (wagon), complete under carpet harness for the door locks and windows grab the power window control unit under the drivers seat (RHD) you will need to unrap the door and window harness from the body harness if the source car has a 4eat auto transmission as some of the wiring is sometimes wrapped with the harness that goes to the 4eat TCU..look under the dash by the driver kick panel and u'll see a connector with a fat white wire and a smaller green wire with white stripe. One side of this connecter feeds back to the power window control unit and the other goes up to the dash harness/fuse box this is the main power feed to the power windows (white wire) and ignition control wire (green/white wire{your wire colours may differ}).. In my car the dash side of this connector was already there..so I just had to plug it in (go figure.. ;-) the doors I had to run power from the batt. and protect it with a 20 amp fuse hardware wise is fairly simple just unbolt the power winders/regulators after removing the glass from the parts car and replace the manual winders/regulators in your car you'll also need the white roller things that holds the glass in position as it goes up and down..four of them per glass.. the door lock solenoids are held in with two screws and the control rod is held in place by a plastic clip getting these off is fairly easy..don't snap the plastic retension clips you need them for your car.. my upgrade wasn't as easy as I converted from a left hand source car to my right hand drive car.. the electrical switches for the windows will mount in the same place as in the source car when you remove your DL panels you'll notice that the cutout for the switch is there you just have to cut it out.. while you have the harness out of the parts car complete hook it up to its new power souces in your car and to the associated hardware from the parts car. Verify that everything is working. If you see sluggish performance of the window motors dissassemble the switches and clean the contacts check all connections in the affected winder circuit and make sure you have good continuity..the door lock solenoids seldom go bad but test to be sure.... wrap the any part of the harness you had to open in electrical tape and if you had 2 cut any wires use solder and heatshrink tubing to cover the repaired joint.. Once you have everything working it's time to install everything in your car..since you stripped it from the parts car you should know where everything should go..you don't have to remove your carpet but you do have to remove the plastic trim that covers the mount points for the carpet and peal it back.. let me know if you run into any problems... This took me about a 5 days to do working from 4pm to 6pm on evenings..but it should be much faster for you as you don't have to convert from LHD to RHD like I did but I smile everytime it rains and I don't have to lean over and roll up a window while driving.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausubaru92 Posted July 18, 2005 Author Share Posted July 18, 2005 Runs well:banana: but it leakes water from the water pump:banghead: (but not from the weep hole) So it looks like im in for a new water pump seal and i may as well do the timing belts at the same time. I'll do a compression test too. Thanks poormansimpreza, I will attempt it in the next few weeks. Maybe convert one door per arvo too. I took some pics but when i got there with the camera i forgot what u asked for so i will try again soon Some pics here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=6651 Gannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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