karinvail Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 I tried to go to the repair pages to print out the timing belt replacement section. (YES, damn thing broke on me today! I knew immediately, before I was even off the road what it was at least, and even knew it was the drivers side, LOL). Anyhow, I'm getting an error message when I click on the link from www.ultimatesubaru.org Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EYE_WHY Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 Me too, I think one of the moderators said they were updating and hadn't added that section yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 I believe the problem arises from updated software that was recently installed, and the updates did not include fixes for security issues with certain portions of the website. The USRM, unfortunately, was one of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karinvail Posted July 12, 2005 Author Share Posted July 12, 2005 OH NO! Anybody have it saved they can post here or email me? (Timing belt replacement) I have a Hayne's manual, but I have not been impressed with it's info. Maybe I should dig it out and see if it's directions are good enough for me to follow. I know that the ones on here were so easy for me to follow even just reading it, I understood each step........... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 Easy to do, even without a detailed description of How-To. I have large, clumsy hands, plus I like a little working room; so first thing I do is pull the radiator. (Careful with coolant; it attracts animals and is deadly to them.) If you have A/C this will require removal of engine driven fan and its shroud; on my wagon it also requires removal of the electric fan for clearance reasons. Once the radiator is out (or you have enough clearance), break loose the crank-pulley bolt (22mm) and the waterpump pulley bolts/nuts (style-dependent). These can be broken loose later, but might be a little easier with acc-drive belts in place.) Once these are broken loose, loosen alt (and A/C) so that acc-drive ("fan") belts can be removed. Remove crank-pulley bolt and the waterpump pulley bolts/nuts, and their pulleys. Unbolt the oil dipstick tube (12mm head on top of block) and remove. Unplug oil pressure sender wire and move aside. Remove the bolts that hold on the t-belt covers (10mm); 2 of the lower bolts on the "driver's" (left, distributor) side have nuts on their backsides. (Sometimes these bolts seize in the brass captive nuts in the plastic housing, and if this happens things get complicated.) Remove the outer covers and the center cover. At this point the t-belts will be totally exposed. rotate the crankshaft until you can view 3 closely spaced lines on the flywheel through the timing hole; you will want to line things up using the center line of the 3. If your driver's belt is intact, check to see if the dot on the driver's side camsprocket is upwards, near the notch in the back timing cover; if it is pointed down, rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees until the dot is upwards. If belt is broken, just rotate the camshaft sprocket until the dot is aligned with the cover notch. On each side of the crankshaft sprockets are tensioners that have smooth pulleys; loosen both bolts on both tensioners, move them away from the belt, and tighten the bolt on the slotted part of the bracket. Remove old belts. Install driver's side belt over crankshaft, oil pump and camshaft sprockets and under the tensioner. Check to make sure that the flywheel marks are still lined up on the center line, and that the camshaft sprocket dot lines up with the cover notch. Once this is right, loosen the tensioner's "slot" bolt, then tighten both bolts. Rotate the engine 360 degrees, so that once again the flywheel is lined up on the center of the 3 lines. Driver's side cam dot should be "down". Turn the passenger side cam sprocket until its dot is upwards and lined up with the notch in its cover. Place passenger side belt over the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets and over the tensioner puley. and make sure that the flywheel is still lined up on center line and cam dot is lined up with notch. Once this is so, loosen the tensioner's "slot" bolt and then tighten both bolts. Rotate the engine and check that both cams are still aligned as you intended (don't be surprised if you are off a tooth.) If the alignment is off, just loosen its tensioner as before and reset the belt; no biggie. Once you are satisfied with the alignment, reverse disassembly steps. Covers and bolts, pulleys and bolts, belt(s), tighten crankshaft bolt and waterpump pulley bolts, radiator, fan. And coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 BTW, I just pulled an EA82 today to do the headgaskets. I had just replaced the t-belts and resealed the oil pump last week, and was surprised with how easy it was in the XT; more room than my T-wagons. I started to do the HGs with engine in situ, thinking I had enough room after my t-belt success. My hands failed me on the driver's side, so out it came. If you need pics while I reassemble the t-belts I can do that. But it really is simple as long as you have access and that darn crank bolt comes loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 Oops... forgot a couple minor things re: oil dipstick and sender wire. (I remembered them while showering. I guess it beats trying to sing, but I seriously need to get a life! ) I will update the previous description. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 if the article was up sorry the pics are down due to server relocation. but here is a .zip of the article available for download, back bt popular demand! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2648 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuckagain Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 Rotate the engine 360 degrees, so that once again the flywheel is lined up on the center of the 3 lines. Driver's side cam dot should be "down". Turn the passenger side cam sprocket until its dot is upwards and lined up with the notch in its cover.. I think the article mentions this, but the flywheel marks for the cams ARE NOT the same marks you use to time the engine (tripped me up at first when I did a timing belt). As NW mentioned use the 3 mark grouping - not the grouping with way more marks that are used to time the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karinvail Posted July 12, 2005 Author Share Posted July 12, 2005 Thanks so much Pat and Miles! I'll let you know how it goes I told hubby that this was MY job, I getta do it I just noticed that there is nothing about taking out plug #1 in either instructions. This is a HUGE relief as I would almost certainly have to do a heli-coil on that cylinder if I had to take out that plug again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 correct, the distributor will install woth the o deg mark. but this is only necessary if the disty has been removed. but also you can tear the motor down to the head gaskets and the disty can remain in the cam tower so this is only necessary when the disty itself has been removed from the cam tower. so if the disty has been removed, follow all the timing belt rotation, and back to the 3 marks, one full cycle. from there turn until the o deg mark appears and install the disty so the rotor points to #1 when the motor is at o deg tdc, the dot on the passenger side(usa) will point to the sharp corner on the valve cover, just below the word SUBARU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyromanic Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 Thanks so much Pat and Miles! I'll let you know how it goes I told hubby that this was MY job, I getta do it Should we tell her about using the starter to get sometimes stubborn crank pully bolt loose? I've only done belts once, so I don't feel like I should be the one to try to desribe that little trick, cause I don't want to responsible for any damage or injury. I'm pretty new to wrenching Soobs. But I had to use that trick. (which I found here at the USMB) It worked like a charm, but I was a little nervous. Scared I'd screw something up. No problem though. Now getting it bock on tight, that was kind of hard. Dont really remember exactly how I did that. Pyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karinvail Posted July 12, 2005 Author Share Posted July 12, 2005 Should we tell her about using the starter to get sometimes stubborn crank pully bolt loose? I've only done belts once, so I don't feel like I should be the one to try to desribe that little trick, cause I don't want to responsible for any damage or injury. I'm pretty new to wrenching Soobs. But I had to use that trick. (which I found here at the USMB) It worked like a charm, but I was a little nervous. Scared I'd screw something up. No problem though. Now getting it bock on tight, that was kind of hard. Dont really remember exactly how I did that. Pyro I replaced the water pump gasket in the last motor that was in this car back in February, so I know that little trick (coil wire off, wratchet on, bump starter). Worked great last time, but I agree it's a little nerve-racking thinking about it, LOL. Funny thing, I don't remember how we got it back on tight either! hmmm...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 if the article was up sorry the pics are down due to server relocation. but here is a .zip of the article available for download, back bt popular demand!http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2648 Miles to the rescue!!! Thanks, Miles. I was typing quickly from recent experience; figured that something basic was better than nothing. And touching the basics would take some of the anxiety out of the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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