espey_16 Posted July 17, 2005 Share Posted July 17, 2005 my sister just got a 1980 subaru gl 2wd but the cv axels are no good. i went to the auto parts store and got two new axels, but i cant get the old ones off. what do i do? i have everything off except the axel itself. any help would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted July 17, 2005 Share Posted July 17, 2005 From the Transaxel or the steering knuckle? Transaxel should be spring pin to knock out... only drives out one way! By using a round punch up by the power side there should be a recess (indent at pin) push from oppisite side. From the Steering knuckle I had to give mine a tap at the end of the spline with a hammer and it popped out.... much more then that then it has to be taken too a shop but that is usually on the newer models from what I have been told. The Repair manuals say they all have to be seperated by special tool but mine just came apart.... as everyone says they usually do and laugh at the repair book. If everything is off, tug, pry.... ahh.... beat... chain and pull tension with another car and hit... ? (Never had that problem.) I have only done one set so experience is limited from me. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted July 17, 2005 Share Posted July 17, 2005 for the front axles, Break the castle nut loose before you get the tire off take out the inner spring pins like told above - tap from the non-beveled side out. Remove the hub the tire bolts onto Undo the lower arm bolts - should be 14mm, IIRC, may need to undo the sway bar (?) with a 12mm wrench to get enough free play That should give you enough room to pull the entire steering knuckle away from the car, and slip the DOJ off the transmission. Remove the castle nut, then put it on backwards flush with the end of the axle. Find a piece of wood or similar, and pound the axle out. The wood is to make sure you don't mess up the threads, even though this axle is getting replaced. Get the new axle, and feed it through the knuckle. put the castle nut back on and start prying. Rather than prying off the bearing seal, I've had luck putting a large crescent wrench/piece of metal right next to the seal on the hub and prying off that. Using various sizes there, and adding washers to the axle, you should be able to pull it all the way through. Put the DOJ cup back on the transmission - It only goes on one way for the spring pin to properly fit back in it. Line it up before you get it on fully. Pound the spring pin back in from the beveled hole. Put the bolt back into the lower control arm, but don't tighten it yet put the hub & tire back on, as well as cone washer, flat washer (convex side OUT) and castle nut, & torque to 145ft-lbs Once the car is back on the ground, tighten the lower control arm/sway bar if you undid it. Re-check the castle nut a few times after driving to make sure everything gets set tight. * I looked for EdRach's procedure, but couldn't find it with the USRM down, so hopefully I didn't miss anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
espey_16 Posted July 19, 2005 Author Share Posted July 19, 2005 yeah i thought it had something to do with that pin on the tranny side, i just wasn't sure. the book i have for the sub isn't clear on anything. thank you guys for helping me out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 yeah i thought it had something to do with that pin on the tranny side, i just wasn't sure. the book i have for the sub isn't clear on anything. thank you guys for helping me out. is this a 4WD or 2WD hatch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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