CV Joint replacement on '84 GL Wagon front wheel drive?!?

[markjs]

Ok so the maintenance records on this $400 car are nonexistant, so no idea when or if it has ever been done. The car has nearly 140K miles on the clock. Anyway, I just noticed a slight clicking on slow (1st gear only) turns to the right or left, and only very sharp turns. The noise seems to be coming from the right side. Is the right side usually first to go? (I would assume so because right turns are often sharper). The boots look intact so far, but this worries me because temporarily I am helping a friend with a motorized paper route and I do 60-100 hard, stop and go miles every day.

 

So what I need to know is, do I have some time, say a week or two til payday? How much time have I likely got under these grueling driving conditions? I intend to do both sides at the same time whether it absolutely needs it or not, because it seems logical to me to get it done rather than mess around individually, but really that will depend on the cost.....

 

So that brings me to the next two questions; how much are both side CV joints likely to cost me, and on the 84 model, how hard of a job is it for the home mechanic? Mind you I do ok with most simple mechanical jobs I come up against and I have a decent set of tools and jacks and stands. I do have access to a mechanic that will do the job for me dirt cheap if it came to that, but I prefer to do this myself and learn. I briefly read in my Haynes manual that there may be some issue with a 'steering knuckle' (I think that's what it was called), that may need to be pressed on and off by a machine shop? Or maybe I am mistaken and that is only true on later models?!? In any case, how difficult is it? What special tools may be needed? Does it require the help of a machine shop? How much is the pair of CV joints likely to cost? And finally, if I do need to use a machine shop, how much is that likely to cost? Thanks in advance guys, you are an invaluable resource!

[dave valiant]

I have driven on a clicking cv till it blew up,and that took months to happen.I would go and buy a reman shaft.they can typically be had for about $60 bucks with a lifetime warranty.IMO I would do the one that needs to be done and leave the other alone.Also the cat is directly above the right side shaft which probably doesn't do it any favors considering how hot cats get.Dave

[Scoobywagon]

I've run clicking axles till they blew up also. While that took quite a while (almost a year, bit less than 50,000 miles), my car is 4wd, which means when the axle went, I just pulled the lever and kept on running. That's not an option for you, being a 2wd car. So what I'd do, were it me, is I'd run it as is until you get paid, then go down to Napa (or Schuck's or Autozone or Parts PLus, or whoever else) and get a lifetime warranty shaft. As far as actually doing the swap goes, it really isn't hard, but takes time. I can do mine in about 45 mins each (fronts).

 

Here's what you need.

 

1) Sturdy floor jack

2) Sturdy jack stands

3) 1/2" drive breaker bar

4) 1/2" drive 19mm socket

5) 1/2" drive 36mm socket

6) needle nose pliers

7) flat head screwdriver

8) 1/2" drive 14mm socket or 14mm wrench

9) 1/2" drive 17mm socket or 17mm wrench

10) 10mm wrench

11) Hammer

12) small drift punch

 

Ok...Step 1: Jack the car up and support it on the jack stands. DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT TRYING THIS WITHOUT ENSURING THE CAR IS SECURELY SUPPORTED!

 

Step 2: use the breaker bar and 19mm socket to remove the lug nuts and wheel/tire.

 

Step 3: use the pliers to remove the cotter pin in the axle and castle nut

 

Step 4: use the breaker bar and 36mm socket to remove the axle nut.

 

Step 5: use the 14mm wrench to remove the bolt(s) holding the brake caliper to the bracket. USe a coat hanger or piece of string to hold the caliper out of the way without hanging it by its hose.

 

step 6: use the 17mm wrench to remove the bolts holding the bracket to the steering knuckle.

 

step 7: use the 10mm wrench to remove the bolts holding the dust plate to the steering knuckle.

 

step 8: crawl under the car and locate the roll pin in the Double Offset Joint of the axle you want to remove. One end will be flush, the other will have a divot. Rotate the axle to locate the divoted end.

 

step 9: use the hammer and small drift punch to drive the roll pin out of its hole taking care not to drive it ALL the way out. They're hard to find once the go SPROING.

 

step 10: turn the steering wheel all the way to the lock in one direction.

 

step 11: use the hammer to drive the axle stub out of the wheel bearing as far as you can. Take care not to hit the wheel bearing. Once the axle stub has been removed from the wheel bearing, the DOJ will slide off of the stub of the tranny and the axle is out of the car.

 

step 12: slide the DOJ of your new axle onto the stub of the tranny, ensuring to line up the holes in the DOJ cup with those in the tranny stub. The easiest way to do this is to ensure that the divoted side of the new DOJ cup is in the same position as the old one.

 

step 13: insert the end of the axle stub into the wheel bearing. Use the hammer to tap the steering knuckle while you press the axle into the bearing. Once you've got enough thread through the bearing, it may be easier to use a large fender washer and the castle nut to pull the new axle through the bearing.

 

Perform steps 1-8 in reverse order to reassemble.

 

I'm fairly certain that's pretty much everything, but I did all that out of my head, so, YMMV, etc. Assume about $70 each for axles pluse core and tax. You shouldn't need a mahcine shop unless you are replacing wheel bearings at the same time. Wheel bearing are pressed in and out, so you either need a machine shop or a press for those. Be advised, though, that the axles fit VERY snugly through the bearings, so its going to turn into a wrestling match to get the axles in and out of them.

[MilesFox]

you will be good for the immediate while and most likely thru winter. really you should only worry about it after the boot rips

 

as far as remanufactured goes with lifetime warranty, order one for the right, replace it.

 

when the left side goes out honor the warranty for the right axle

 

your warranty will state right axle, and the parts counter isnt going to acknowledge the right and left axles fit the same

 

so in theory one axle with a lifetime warrany will replace any other axles on any other soobs thereafter!

[Petersubaru]

don't wait to long..you don't want that thing to blow up on you when you are crossing the road with a semi coming your direction

[markjs]

OK now I am confused.....I just rotated the tires and found that I may have been wrong, and found that the left outer CV boot is ripped. So maybe I am hearing the left side click....In any case the clicking is VERY minimal as yet but I suppose with the boot shot that's soon to change? I need to know if I should park the car til payday or continue putting 50-100 miles a day on it til payday (approximately the 5th) as long as the clicking does not become much worse?!?

[Petersubaru]

this will have to be your call...if you just started to hear the clicking noise, it should last a while longer..if the inside of the boot is still clean, squirt some grease in there and tie up ...maybe both sides are cooked...

OK now I am confused.....I just rotated the tires and found that I may have been wrong, and found that the left outer CV boot is ripped. So maybe I am hearing the left side click....In any case the clicking is VERY minimal as yet but I suppose with the boot shot that's soon to change? I need to know if I should park the car til payday or continue putting 50-100 miles a day on it til payday (approximately the 5th) as long as the clicking does not become much worse?!?