Is there any way I can temporarily fix a CV joint boot?

[crazyhorse001]

I like to use my plastic "T" handle allen wrench to punch the pins out. If the wrench gets stuck, you have the nice handle to pull it out with lol Just dont use too small of a punch, as it will get VERY stuck in the hollow pin.

 

Shouldnt have to "drive" the pin as much as tap it thru. Its snug, but shouldnt be that solid. Worst case, you use a drill to cut the roll pin out.

[DaveT]

I'm in the USA, so my references are that way.

 

The big nail or punch needs to be almost as big diameter as the OD of the roll pin.  I've read a story or 2 where someone got a very small punch stuck.

 

I have always re used the roll pins.  They are only there to keep the end from slipping off the splines, and don't see any real load under normal circumstances.  I've not had any rusty ones, since there have always been enough oil leaks to prevent that.

[rae houghton]

I will take some pics. ...and give the web link...

Meantime.  yes there is a big box with (must be) catalytic converter as they are required in Australia.

And that heat shield may keep my cling wrap from melting too.

talking to someone else today. he says put the pit facing up. knock it down and out. when finished , knock it down and in...to complete the job. 

I thought the hole as tapered and that was why some one said the pin had to be knocked out one hole and put back in , going back up the same hole...which is why I have ben confused. if I can knock it straight down and out. ...then knock it back in straight down and in....then that makes things easier.

[BoostedBoxer421]

my best roll pin tool i use is a 4" bolt with grinded down threads until its slightly smaller than the pin, works great and has some reach.. and use bolt hex head for putting pin in

[Dinky26]

I will take some pics. ...and give the web link...

Meantime.  yes there is a big box with (must be) catalytic converter as they are required in Australia.

And that heat shield may keep my cling wrap from melting too.

talking to someone else today. he says put the pit facing up. knock it down and out. when finished , knock it down and in...to complete the job. 

I thought the hole as tapered and that was why some one said the pin had to be knocked out one hole and put back in , going back up the same hole...which is why I have ben confused. if I can knock it straight down and out. ...then knock it back in straight down and in....then that makes things easier.

Once you get the axel you can rotate it to where needed, I go down coming out then down going back in too.

[rae houghton]

Will send 'snapshot' of what I see on "imageshack" Bumble beast if you send me your email address . then you will know what I see. and where the jpg.

picture fits into the scheme of things.

my email address is raelph4@gmail.com

I use this address for when I might get spam...then , if that happens I just delete the address and make a new one.

[Dinky26]

Will send 'snapshot' of what I see on "imageshack" Bumble beast if you send me your email address . then you will know what I see. and where the jpg.

picture fits into the scheme of things.

my email address is raelph4@gmail.com

I use this address for when I might get spam...then , if that happens I just delete the address and make a new one.

What is picture link?

[rae houghton]

Hello Dinky,

looking at the URL address I have

 

https://imageshack.com/   eye /p53WzquKj.

I just wrote slash  "eye"  because both my computer keeps turning the "letter eye into an El (l) because it thinks the letter eye refers to a person (me).

 

so it should read imageshack.com with the letter EYE not an l

[rae houghton]

Got the pin out no problem with a long bullet nail with a 5mm head. Have marked the stub with a paint spot to be sure it goes back where it should.

Was looking at my mechanics workbook. (would be better to have a book that isn't so complicated like a Gregory's....

My book is for real mechanics and shows how to recondition parts.

As such it assumes I know how to remove things and what and where they are located.

it refers to a stabilizer rod...I assume that is a sway bar???

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

After guessing a lot, I found rae's correct Web Link to his online photo album.

 

here it is:  ~► http://imageshack.com/i/p53WzquKj

 

You can click over that web address to go directly to the online photo album,

 

or you can paste each Photo here, using their individual URL address...

 

Let me try to paste a couple of photos from Rae's album, here:

 

 

 

 

 

 

It works good, you only need to do a right click over the displayed photo at imageshack, and then choose: "Copy image's URL" then, come to do a post here, and after clicking on the image icon, paste the copied URL address in the dialog box... "Voilá" it works.   

 

Kind Regards.

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

Here are two of the Photos that rae houghton sent to my e-mail,

 

which I re-uploaded to my account at PhotoBucket:

 

 

 

 

Kind Regards.

[rae houghton]

thanks again for trying Bumblebeast....but when the url gets into the dialogue box....that is as far as it gets. dialogue box will not send, will not cancel and will not ""OK"". I have to refresh the page to get rid of it.

I have no Adblock....

 

So don't know what the problem is.

But thanks for your patience.

( I also cann;ot sign up for Photobucket...just won't go past the 'create account' POINT. But thanks

 

so...can I change axle without taking callipers off. If Idisengage the lower mounting arm...will that hlepdo it? or is that asking for real trouble?

rae

[rae houghton]

so her is what EDRACH writes

Knock out the pin on the DOJ with a drift tool.

Remove the pivot bolt from the lower arm.

I don't remove the sway bar mount (never had to)>

Pull the DOJ away from the tranny, it should move freely now, but won't quite come off

Tug on the wheel hub and pull with a crowbar or large screwdriver. This should allow you to get the DOJ off the stub axle.

Now remove the castle nut, and both washers (tapping the hub smartly with a small wood. You can push the spindle out with the gear puller or smack the spindle with the sledge (and wood) You might need to us a smaller tool to pound the spindle out the last inch or so...

Now carefully remove the axle from the car.

 

QUESTION...IS THIS POSSIBLE ON THE 1990 - 1994  L-SERIES?

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

thanks again for trying Bumblebeast....but when the url gets into the dialogue box....that is as far as it gets. dialogue box will not send, will not cancel and will not ""OK"". I have to refresh the page to get rid of it.

I have no Adblock....

 

So don't know what the problem is.

But thanks for your patience.

( I also cann;ot sign up for Photobucket...just won't go past the 'create account' POINT. But thanks...

 

Have you seen my post regarding this subject, on your Other Thread?

 

Regarding the Photos attached to Posts' Subject, I saw the photos you sent to my e-mail address, and let me tell you that now I know where lies the root of the problem you're experiencing, and it is the web Browser that you're using: internet explorer. 

 

Because it scrambles part of the URL address for "Security" reasons, the web addresses and URL links shown on your screen shots are incomplete; so I kindly suggest you to download, install and use another web Browser, and try again the process I that explained above, to share pictures and videos on your posts.

 

In my case, I've tried many web Browsers, and I chose Chrome by Google, because it always works seamlessly and fast with all my internet needs; but you might try any other you want.

 

Kind Regards.

 

There I told you where the Problem is.

 

Kind Regards.

[rae houghton]

thanks...I'll give it a go.

 

As for the axle ...it is out.

And I did not have to take off the calipers and brakes. Just undid the tie rod, sway bar, and ball joint.

Heck of a time getting the ball joint off, but then found an old puller that I forgot I had, until I saw a picture of it when I looked up

tools to remove ball joints.

I have accumulated a few tools over the years, but seldom have had need to use them.

 

Now to get the broken booted one off and replace it with the better one.

 

thanks again.

 

Rae

[rae houghton]

I have looked over my job before taking out the 'shot' boots and axle of my primary car.....

I notice that I probably did not have to undo the sway bar nut.

I am pretty sure that the entire wheel assembly with brakes and calipers and all will swing away from the lower arm when the tie rod and ball joint are undone.

then take out and install new axle and put ball joint and tie rod back in.

 

If anyone thinks this will not work as planned, I would love to hear / read before I make a 'botch' of it and find myself with time comsuming problems.

thanks

RAE

[subnz]

Don't let then  get to the stage that they split / spray grease other wise joint failure particularly if used off highway (dust dirt grit etc + residual grease = grinding paste)

 

check regularly and as soon as they start cracking - replace boot

Edited December 13, 2015 by subnz

[rae houghton]

For those who ae wondering...the cling wrap did not last long. Combination of axle spin, maybe  heat from catalytic converter, made the wrap undo itself very nicely...very very broken...

[rae houghton]

When replacing my front axle I noticed that the wheel bearings could use a replacement too, OR maybe just some more grease. See the pic of the bearing ..... Note lack of grease.

So with a syringe and grease the job was done...A bit messy, but with some rubber gloves, and a little grease put in the syringe...saved some dollars and a lot of trouble to replace bearing. DAVE T suggested that he had never seen a brace of his bearing fail, and that he either added grease OR just took out the bearings, cleaned them and RE-Greased them. thanks for the confidence you gave me to add some grease. i thought the little point of the syringe would help push the grease in the right spots with as little excess as possible...and it worked pretty well.