F. Wheel bearing install - problem

[stuckagain]

1990 Loyale 4WD wagon needed new front axles on both sides. Pulled axle on one side using Edrach's method (worked like a charm) so the knuckle is still on the car. The inside bearing seal was in bad shape so I decided to re-pack the front wheel bearings. I removed the bearings using a brass punch - so far so good. Cleaned bearings - re-packed with hi-temp grease and installed outside bearing using a brass punch - no problem, BUT the inside bearing does not want to go back in. I checked the matching surface in the hub and it is clean and scratch free. Anybody have any "hints," special tool sugestions (the cheaper the better - I don't have $250 to spend on an OTC Hub Tamer just now) for getting that bearing to go back in without having to remove the knuckle from the car?

 

Thanks!!!

 

P.S. I'm a bit worried about installing the new seals - should they pop right in, or will I have to pound them in?

[msteel]

I am in the midst of this job for the first time as well, so my suggestions aren't proven. I have the knuckle off the car (not too difficult to take off, but don't break the pinch bolt like I did-ouch). I am planning to use a press to put the bearings back in. I have heard that a 2" metal conduit coupling is just right to contact the outer race. I couldn't find a metal one the right size at Lowes, but a PVC one is the right size. I thought the PVC might hold up to a press, but I'm unsure about whether it would hold up to banging. Interestingly, a 1" pipe just fits inside the inner race, and with a reducer coupler you might be able to make a tool to hold the bearing while tapping it. I plan to post on the message board if I have great results - we'll see.

 

Matt

[Ross]

I just chisel away the corners of a piece of 2x4" timber. works well.

If its stuck, its probably gone in on an angle. Try to figure out which way its tilted, and hit one side of it to straighten it up.

[Subyaddict]

Like Ross said, the trick is to make sure it's going in perfectly stright. I used the 36mm axle nut socket to tap it in(using a hammer of course, not the socket), working the the socket around the outer race to keep it going in straight, if you had a socket (or some other short cylider) that was exact same diameter as the outer race you could just tap it straight in, if it still won't go in better pull it back out, and do some investigating. Make sure the knuckle hasn't been bent along the outer rim, just a slight distortion can make it impossible to get the bearing back in because the tolerance is so tight.

My left front outer bearing had this hang-up, so I had to hammer and grind and polish to get it back in shape, but it works with no problem 1 1/2 months so far.

But as for doing this job easily, next time I'm buying a slide hammer, there's very little swinging room under there as we all know.

Good luck, and if you get mad don't blame it on the subaru, blame it on whoever drove it abusively (even if that's you, I know I'm guilty)

Later

Nate

[stuckagain]

Like Ross said, the trick is to make sure it's going in perfectly stright. I used the 36mm axle nut socket to tap it in(using a hammer of course, not the socket), working the the socket around the outer race to keep it going in straight, if you had a socket (or some other short cylider) that was exact same diameter as the outer race you could just tap it straight in, if it still won't go in better pull it back out, and do some investigating. Make sure the knuckle hasn't been bent along the outer rim, just a slight distortion can make it impossible to get the bearing back in because the tolerance is so tight.

My left front outer bearing had this hang-up, so I had to hammer and grind and polish to get it back in shape, but it works with no problem 1 1/2 months so far.

But as for doing this job easily, next time I'm buying a slide hammer, there's very little swinging room under there as we all know.

 

Nate

 

Thanks for post - I ended up pulling the knuckle out after I got carried away with a metal hammer Turns out I gouged the seat (in the knuckle) when I switched, out of frustration, to a metal hammer to bang on my brass punch. I didn't notice that the bearing had gone sideways and being harder than seat in the knuckle the bearing left a mark/ridge in the knuckle. With the knuckle out of the car I carefully sanded down the ridge I made with emory cloth using cutting oil (don't try this without the cutting oil). Since the ridge left by the bearing was near the outside of the seating area I took care not to remove any material below the ridge (inside bearing). Thus, the bearing should still form, hold and ride O.K. The tolerences are pretty tight in there - I noticed that when I was trying to pound the bearing in, and it got cocked, it wouldn't turn in the race; as soon as I pounded it out it rolled fine.