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found an easy exhaust manifold bolt fix


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well after listening to my sooby sounding horrible for about a month, i finally decided to get around to fixing it. what had happened is i had managed to strip out 1 bolt hole on each side. well the other day i dug into my coffee can of bolts from when i had stripped my 87 and found 2 brass looking bolts with a double washer setup on them and a slightly tapered end. (im not possative but i think they were from the rear tow hooks) anyways they threaded right into the holes and snugged up real nicely and stopped the exhaust leak completely. i gotta take off my tow hooks tomorow to bolt up my trailer hitch, so ill check out the bolts and see if that was where those bolts were from.

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The best fix I found for this same problem is to take a 7/16th tap (assuming the original was a 10mm diameter bolt) and tap out the stripped hole with it. Works perfect with no drill or pricey Heli-coil. I used a fine thread (7/16-14) and used a dual thread (fine and course on opposite ends) stud.

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I went to everybodys favorite auto parts store (insert heavy sarcasm here), Advanced, and bought a toyota Corolla manifold kit (you actually need two for a sube). This kit includes two bolts and three exhaust studs.

 

I tapped the hole using one of the bolts. :brow: Then I put high temp locker on the one end of the stud and high never seize on the side the nut goes on and screwed it up in there. :)

 

Seemed to work better then the bolt trick. Especially if you want to be able to take your exhuast off for upgrades/oops a rock or something like that.

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  • 1 year later...

My brother went down to the hardware store, and bought a course threaded SAE bolt a little bit bigger that the hole. Then, took a !/2 impact gun and just pounded it in there:lol: Wouldn't recomend it, but it works.

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just go to a toyota dealer and get some exhaust studs and nuts there, it's the exact same diameter and pitch as subies (M10x1.25) and won't cost you an arm and a leg

 

just don't screw around with american sizes in there :rolleyes: get the proper bolts or don't bother at all.

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if the threads are stripped out, then supposedly you can tap it out to 7/16" thread of a similar pitch without drilling any further.. just work the tap in 1/4 turn at a time and back it out.. but thats just hearsay. there was a big long hotly debated thread about this that was last posted in oh, say a week or ten days ago. go find that and read it through for all your options. there were like 80 replies.

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Oh yeah, forgot this too. I think a 1/4 8 point socket will hold the tap so you can put an extention on it and then use a ratchet handel to turn it. Makes it alot easier as your not fighting the tap handle in a confined space. Tim

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Well, the manifolds are "semi-stripped." So I guess Im gonna try the 7/16 tap thing......Hopefully, my buddy has a tap.:-\

 

Do the 7/16 studs. That is the best way. Leaves room for a bump up to 12mm or for a helicoil in the future. Don't need to drill, just go slow and careful with the tap. And use lots of oil and don't force it.

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Do the 7/16 studs. That is the best way. Leaves room for a bump up to 12mm or for a helicoil in the future. Don't need to drill, just go slow and careful with the tap. And use lots of oil and don't force it.

Yah, I was just repeating what I had heard gloyale say in a previous post. listen to him, not me; I havent been there or done that. I was just tryin to help :)

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toyota bolts are generally x1.00 threads. or was it x1.50? i do know its different. but that makes sense if they thread into soob exhaust holes if they are stripped out

 

Hey Miles,

 

My "Muffler Man" sold me a dozen 10X1.25 studs, nuts and washers. This for Justy exhaust, converter to front pipe, and some spares

 

He did indicate, I think, that Mazda took the X1.50 and I believe he said most other Asian stuff uses the X1.25. YMMV, of course.

 

Later

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