dpoppeli Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 '99 Forester, 75k miles, manual. Trying to track down source of a smell which sort of reminds me of what I've smelled coming from braking trucks (it's not that "CV-joint grease dripping on the exhaust" smell). There is no visible smoke. It's not coming out the tailpipe. It first happened last winter after going to and from town through almost a foot of snow. Found bunch of debris clogged between the exhaust guarding and figured it was due to this. Recently however I noticed it when I was backing a log-splitter down a grassy hill where I was riding the clutch a lot. Smell went away after a few hours. Don't notice any slipping in clutch howver I am suspecting that due to very occasional clutch "stuttering" when starting out in first gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
felipe01forester Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 75K sounds about right for a clutch. I had my clutch replaced at 73K. The Foresters between '98 and '02 had a problem because they used an organic material for the clutch assembly, and so they had that usual "stutter" whenever you had to quickly accelerate. I'd take it in and see what they say. I waited until my clutch was nearly bare before I took it in, and I had to cough up $850 for parts and labor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 mine didn't haul anything and was slipping under hard accelleration at about 89,000 miles. Mine is a 99 Forester. Be sure to get the upgraded clutch!!!! The new one is night and day better on my car. Organics are better at the supermarket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpoppeli Posted August 4, 2005 Author Share Posted August 4, 2005 Well maybe I can make it through the winter... hope for the 80k's before it needs to be replaced. Perhaps a silly question but does it matter whether I wait until it's slipping ? Also through other posts I've noticed that it makes sense to replace any seals while the transmission is dropped, eg oil pump, misc bearings, others? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 when you step on the gas. I like my cars reliable, and at that point you can nurse it by for a while but you are taking your chances. While you are in there you want to replace the plastic seperator plate if you have one, with the new metal one. New rear seal and all clutch bits and flywheel if you need it. The dealer failed to replace my pilot bearing and I had to pay for another engine removal. I don't go to that dealer anymore. Make sure the pilot bearing is changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 First off, the oil pump is on the other side of the engine from the clutch. While you are in there, have the bell housing cleaned out and get the upgraded clutch. Have the flywheel turned while you are at it and get the release berring, and pilot berring replaced. While the flywheel is off, have them check the rear main seal (preventitive), and there is a plate on the back of the engine that was originally metal, but sometime in the mid 90's they went to plastic. get that upgraded to the metal one, it maintains a better seal. Josh, I'm sure you know the plate I'm talking about, can you link to a pic (I know you have a pic. . . )? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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