Cougar Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 Yes. It very well may be a pump problem. Great job on the ECU fix Citrushark. To make sure you are still not have a problem with the injector line you can use your voltmeter to measure the pulsing DC voltage on the wire that ties the ground to the injector. See what kind of voltage you get while the engine is cranking and works ok. This will give you a reference to have on hand. When and if the problem comes back then recheck the voltage and see if that checks out. If you have 12 volts then the ECU needs to be check again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CITRUSHARK Posted August 25, 2005 Author Share Posted August 25, 2005 Much Thanks for the reply Cougar. I have so many things to say. For example. I am a computer expert. My computer got zapped by lightning 2 days ago. So with all the car fun,,, I have had to shell out 250 for my computer while workin here. I tell ya; When it rains it pours here latlely. So forgive me with my spaztic response to you... but I am confused how there would be a measruable DC voltage on the wire that ties the ground. I mean, after all, shouldn't it be measrued with ohmage, instead of voltage? I was thinking that it was possible that the injector response from the ECU was ok with it being grounded out like it was before. I was thinking that the ECU didn't really even know that it was missing a ground on the injjecotr circuit. After all, the ECU was willing to provide a steady, constent, supply from the positive side even after missing a ground from a circuit that is only 2 wires on the injector. well I can't say much more right now. But Cougar.. you said hang in there .. and I am, I'm tryin bud. Thanks for your help Yes. It very well may be a pump problem. Great job on the ECU fix Citrushark. To make sure you are still not have a problem with the injector line you can use your voltmeter to measure the pulsing DC voltage on the wire that ties the ground to the injector. See what kind of voltage you get while the engine is cranking and works ok. This will give you a reference to have on hand. When and if the problem comes back then recheck the voltage and see if that checks out. If you have 12 volts then the ECU needs to be check again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CITRUSHARK Posted August 29, 2005 Author Share Posted August 29, 2005 Well the car has died a few times the last few days. And I am still waiting for the replacement parts for my computer so I will have to make this brief for now. The ECU is giving me only one code which is the code for the throttle position sensor. I am wondering if a bad Throttle position would cause the engine to die suddenly while driving? The car dies very simular to the behavior of a bad fuel filter(it has been replaced), well kind of. It doesn't really sputter. It completely dies; sometimes for a second or two and sometimes for 5 to 10 minutes. I am going to replace the throttle position sensor today. I have worked extensively with the voltage fluxuation problem that I am experiencing. That issue I am going to be posting in the other post I have involving that. I just thought that I should mention that the voltage is not fluxuating when the car is dying. So I don't think it is related or is causing it. I have not been able to locate the voltage problem. I took the dash apart, etc. My biggest problem with that is the haynes manual does not show the wiring for the voltage gauge. In the Charging Circuitry that it shows, it only shows 1 wire going from the alternator to the fuse box, then from the fuse box to the warning light, not the voltage meter in the dash. So please let me know if you have any info for that. Well after replacing the throttle position sensor, I am not sure where to go from there. The ECU is no longer giving me a code for the injector when it dies(after fixing the ECU). I am thinking that It could be the fuel pump, but I don't know how a sooby fuel pump would act if it is failing. Plus I will have to drive far and probably pay $100 for it. So I am not looking forward to replacing the fuel pump unless I know that is what's causing the problem. Is there anyway I can verify the fuel pump? What other suggestions does anyone have that could be causing this? Yes. It very well may be a pump problem. Great job on the ECU fix Citrushark. To make sure you are still not have a problem with the injector line you can use your voltmeter to measure the pulsing DC voltage on the wire that ties the ground to the injector. See what kind of voltage you get while the engine is cranking and works ok. This will give you a reference to have on hand. When and if the problem comes back then recheck the voltage and see if that checks out. If you have 12 volts then the ECU needs to be check again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 You should be able to hear the pump turn on briefly when you turn the key to the 'on' position. Check the relay if you don't hear the pump turn on. Using a test probe light across the wires to the pump will verify that voltage is getting to the pump if you don't hear it turn on. I think plugging the black connectors together near the ECU will make the pump turn on continuosly. Check for spark also when this happens again by carrying a spare plug with you and plug it into a plugwire with the body of the plug on a good ground. You can also have a can of starter fluid with you to see if it is a fuel problem. If you spray some fluid into the intake and get no response when you try to start the engine then it probably is an ignition problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CITRUSHARK Posted September 1, 2005 Author Share Posted September 1, 2005 Thanks for the info on the pump. It's nice to know how to bypass the relay. It has been 2 days since I replaced the throttle position sensor, and it has been running good. So I've got my fingers crossed that the problem with stalling has been fixed. It has not spit or sputtered since. I am still having a problem with the voltage gauge. I am going to the voltage gauge going whacko thread for that now. I will post here in 5 more days; sooner if the car stalls again. Couger, you have been very helpful. Although I have not met you, you seem to be a person of great character. It's not very often that you find a person that is willing to offer a good deal of help without demanding money in return. My expertise is computers. Couger if you ever need any help with your computer, please let me know; I will be glad to help. I would like to thank all of you that have taken the time to post help in this thread. I don't think I could have done it without you. Thanks a Bunch, CITRUSHARK You should be able to hear the pump turn on briefly when you turn the key to the 'on' position. Check the relay if you don't hear the pump turn on. Using a test probe light across the wires to the pump will verify that voltage is getting to the pump if you don't hear it turn on. I think plugging the black connectors together near the ECU will make the pump turn on continuosly. Check for spark also when this happens again by carrying a spare plug with you and plug it into a plugwire with the body of the plug on a good ground. You can also have a can of starter fluid with you to see if it is a fuel problem. If you spray some fluid into the intake and get no response when you try to start the engine then it probably is an ignition problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 Thanks for the info on the pump. It's nice to know how to bypass the relay. It has been 2 days since I replaced the throttle position sensor, and it has been running good. So I've got my fingers crossed that the problem with stalling has been fixed. It has not spit or sputtered since. I am still having a problem with the voltage gauge. I am going to the voltage gauge going whacko thread for that now. I will post here in 5 more days; sooner if the car stalls again. Couger, you have been very helpful. Although I have not met you, you seem to be a person of great character. It's not very often that you find a person that is willing to offer a good deal of help without demanding money in return. My expertise is computers. Couger if you ever need any help with your computer, please let me know; I will be glad to help. I would like to thank all of you that have taken the time to post help in this thread. I don't think I could have done it without you. Thanks a Bunch, CITRUSHARK Your welcome for the help Citrushark and glad it helped you out. There are lots of helpful folks here on this site that are willing to literally go the extra mile to help someone. I'm not so good with computers so maybe someday I will need your expertise. If the voltmeter is fluctuating I would check to make sure the fusible links are making a good connection and use a voltmeter to verify the alternator output is stable. The internal regulator may have a problem or the brushes may be bad. It is the large lead with the nut holding the wire on. Be careful if you take it off as it is tied directly to the battery through a fusible link. Check the main ground leads also if other things are ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CITRUSHARK Posted September 3, 2005 Author Share Posted September 3, 2005 I took your advise from earlier at the other post; after checking all the wires to the alternator, I replaced it. All is fixed and my sooby is running great. Your welcome for the help Citrushark and glad it helped you out. There are lots of helpful folks here on this site that are willing to literally go the extra mile to help someone. I'm not so good with computers so maybe someday I will need your expertise. If the voltmeter is fluctuating I would check to make sure the fusible links are making a good connection and use a voltmeter to verify the alternator output is stable. The internal regulator may have a problem or the brushes may be bad. It is the large lead with the nut holding the wire on. Be careful if you take it off as it is tied directly to the battery through a fusible link. Check the main ground leads also if other things are ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 Alright, another happy Soob owner is on the road again. Drive on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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