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Got my ej22t heads back from CCR


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Just want to thank CCR (Emily) for the great job, and for helping me out and putting up with my questions :)

 

I may have time this weekend to start the assembly...we'll see.

 

Here's pics of the heads

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/09/default.htm

 

Various teardown pics

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/

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Just want to thank CCR (Emily) for the great job, and for helping me out and putting up with my questions :)

 

I may have time this weekend to start the assembly...we'll see.

 

Here's pics of the heads

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/09/default.htm

 

Various teardown pics

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/

 

G-R-E-A-T pictures !!!

 

Thanks !

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Josh, those photos (Cylinders And Pistons DCP_4363.JPG) make a good case for staying away from oils containing VII.

 

The early manufacturer recommendations of 5W-30 irrespective of ambient temp were an invitation to disaster. The supposed reason for recommending against 10W-40 was the high VII content, yet 5W-30 actually contained more.

 

What was run in that motor to varnish and coke the pistons to that extent?

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Josh, as always your attention to detail leaves me in awe. It makes me wish I had the time to do more than a half-baked job of everything.

 

Good oil advice Blitz.

 

It looks as if the rings were pretty well carboned up, resulting in the scuffing. I would run a good 5w-40 in this one. M1 T&SUV or Rotella T. Those are both HDEO's that are made for turbo applications. The turbo heat was probably cooking the oil that the PO was using. The multiviscosity oils I know of without VII's are full synthetic 10w-30 and possibly 15w-40. Even though the 5w-40 HDEO's contain some VII they should work well.

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What exactly is VII?

 

I can't really tell ya what was put in the motor before hand. I bought it used.

 

From taking everything apart, I can tell the motor was in decent condition, but it was probably not taken care of as well as it should.

 

After break in I'll be running a synthetic 10w-30 or 10w-40.

 

The owner's manuals actually recommends 5w-30 for "extended high speed driving"

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Viscosity index improver. These are polymeric additives that thicken oil when it's hot, improving the viscosity index or the ability of the oil to resist viscosity change over temperature. Synthetic base stocks have a higher inherent viscosity index and therefore require less or no VII's. VII's break down with severe heat and form sludge and deposits.

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What exactly is VII?

99 has it summed up pretty good.

 

I can't really tell ya what was put in the motor before hand. I bought it used.

 

From taking everything apart, I can tell the motor was in decent condition, but it was probably not taken care of as well as it should.

Actually the entire motor looked to be clean as a whistle. Only the really high temp areas show the coking and varnishing. A lot of the newer non-turbo motors have a problem in the top ring area due to the practice of pushing the physical location as close to the top as possible.

 

After break in I'll be running a synthetic 10w-30 or 10w-40.

 

The owner's manuals actually recommends 5w-30 for "extended high speed driving"

My advice to friends was to save the use of conventional 5W-30 for cold weather and use 10W-30 (or straight 30) in the summer. Sometimes the manufacturer recomendations aren't quite what they're cracked up to be.

 

I keep wondering if these newer engines that spec 5W-20 aren't gonna suffer as the clearances open up with mileage. I guess time will tell.

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