CV axle changing--tips for newbies

[Tom63050]

Finally got up the courage to do my first CV axle change, based on Edrach's excellent writeup. Wanted to stick in a technique I think I invented (haven't seen it on the board). I was working on the front driver's side axle, which had torn boots. It was the original factory axle, with 165K on it; axle was fine, just torn boots.

 

I loosened the three upper strut nuts, and removed one of the steering stabilizer bolts. Then I removed the pivot bolt on the lower control arm (hopefully I have all the terminology right). It was a beotch getting the DOJ off; lotsa muscle and bad language involved. When I finally got the new one on, the splines weren't lined up; I had to take it back off, rotate the DOJ 180 degrees, and put it on again. I'm embarrassed to say how long all this took, so I won't.

 

Anyway, some tips:

1. Not sure the three upper strut mounts need to be loosened, but what the heck, it takes 30 seconds.

2. Take off the sway bar bolt while the tire is still on the ground. That way the bar isn't under tension, so the bolt won't spring at your face.

3. Getting the pivot bolt back in goes a lot easier with a crowbar.

4. Best tip: how to get the DOJ off. Rather than use muscle, I finally figured this out. Chock the opposite wheel (Right rear if you're working on the left front); jack up the car and put it on a jackstand; have the tire for the axle you are working on just barely off the ground. Take two pieces of 4" by 4" wood, about 2 feet long, and place one end of each touching the inside of the tires, under and parallel to the CV axles. The other ends will be facing each other under the transmission. There should be about a 6 - 12" gap between the inside ends. Take your scissors jack and lay it down in the gap between the pieces of wood. Use the jack as a spreader. The tire on the ground will not move, but the tire just off the ground will move outwards (since you removed the pivot bolt). The DOJ then comes off very easily. If the jack handle is too difficult to use under the car, you can use a short adjustable wrench. It'll be easy to turn. Also, this way you don't have to hunt up a friend to pull out on the tire, like the HTKYSA book says to do.

5. Other stuff to take off:

a. parking brake cable, where it attaches to the lower arm, and on the end.

b. brakes. Tie 'em up out of the way.

6. My axle came out with just two medium taps with one of the four by fours. Got lucky I guess.

 

Comments and corrections are invited.

[TomRhere]

This is after removing wheel/tire, caliper, E-brake cable, and loosening the axle nut.

 

I remove the pinch-bolt for the ball-joint, then pop it out of the knuckle by placing a crowbar over radius rod and under engine cradle and prying down. Then I turn the steering wheel towards the side I'm working on. This will give you plenty of free-room to remove/install axle, and a few less bolts to remove/replace. No need to loosen the top strut bolts at all.

 

I pop the ball-joint instead of the pivot bolt cause living here in the salt-belt, those bolts like to rust into the bushing making removal a real pain.

[edrach]

I pop the ball-joint instead of the pivot bolt cause living here in the salt-belt, those bolts like to rust into the bushing making removal a real pain.

Lots of ways to skin a cat as the old expression goes. I've found the pivot bolt easier to do than the ball-joint. AND the pivot bolt always goes back in with lots of never-seeze to prevent it from rusting to the bushing before the next time I do the axle. Lots of good suggestions here on the Board.

[MorganM]

I do not remove the ebrake cable (or caliper), undo the ball joint, or loosen the strut top. My swaybar has been completly removed so that doesn't get in the way anymore

 

Undoing the control arm from the main crossmember gives me all the play I need to pull the DOJ off the tranny. Then I pound the stub out of the hub assembly.

[SuBrat84]

Undoing the control arm from the main crossmember gives me all the play I need to pull the DOJ off the tranny. Then I pound the stub out of the hub assembly.

 

Werd.

[Zefy]

I'm embarrassed to say how long all this took, so I won't.

 

the first time i did it it took me 3 months... but i had to do the barings too...:-p

 

well some of that i was waiting for a replacement axle, then time to order barings from the dealership... then some tinker time...

 

but after taking it apart and putting it back together multiple times i can do it in around 30-45 minutes...

[Tom63050]

I do not remove the ebrake cable (or caliper), undo the ball joint, or loosen the strut top. My swaybar has been completly removed so that doesn't get in the way anymore

 

Undoing the control arm from the main crossmember gives me all the play I need to pull the DOJ off the tranny. Then I pound the stub out of the hub assembly.

 

I just did the passenger side axle today. Found out I didn't have to remove the parking brake cable. I left the brake on to get the old axle out. Still had to take off the brake assembly tho, for the sake of pulling the new axle through. Had to go to the hardware store (twice). First to get some large washers to use as spacers. Then had to go back to get a short piece of PVC to fit over the splines, so I could pull the axle through a little more with the castle nut, before I could fit the hub on to pull the axle all the way through. Didn't have this problem with the left axle.

[MorganM]

I just did the passenger side axle today. Found out I didn't have to remove the parking brake cable. I left the brake on to get the old axle out. Still had to take off the brake assembly tho, for the sake of pulling the new axle through. Had to go to the hardware store (twice). First to get some large washers to use as spacers. Then had to go back to get a short piece of PVC to fit over the splines, so I could pull the axle through a little more with the castle nut, before I could fit the hub on to pull the axle all the way through. Didn't have this problem with the left axle.

 

I hold the CV with my left hand, pull in twoard myself as I'm facing the hub, and then hammer around the face of the hub in a circular patern to 'pres' the stub through the hub. Tough part is keeping the stub horizontal as it tends to jimmy in a funny direction. Once enough of the stub is through I thread on the castle nut and pull it through the rest of the way.

[archemitis]

ok, im sure you tried, but why are you writing up a "how to" after doing it once?

you took too much stuff off of the car.

 

leave the brakes alone. leave the ball joints alone. leave the sway bars alone.

 

everyone follow the edrachs writeup, not this one.

[Tom63050]

ok, im sure you tried, but why are you writing up a "how to" after doing it once?

you took too much stuff off of the car.

 

leave the brakes alone. leave the ball joints alone. leave the sway bars alone.

 

everyone follow the edrachs writeup, not this one.

 

Not trying to set myself up as an "instant expert". Qman, Edrach, Miles and many others know far more than me, for sure. Just wanted to pass on some ideas that worked for me; might help others too. If there's a way to do it with the brakes on, great, but I couldn't get it that way. Upper shock nuts and sway bar mounts are no big deal to loosen/remove; I just did them in case they helped, because I'm new at this.