markjs Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 I was trying to change an axle in my '84 front wheel drive GL Wagon and the bolt on the bottom of the steering knuckle snapped! So I tried to easy out it and busted my easy out and then I tried drilling it out but the bolt is so hard that even a brand new cobalt bit can even begin to drill through that ***************. Worse I tried to drill from the other side and all I managed to do was slowly drift off the hardened bolt and bite into the softer metal of the knuckle. If there was any way to get the bolt out and knuckle off I could put a nut on the end of a smaller bolt to hold the knuckle on but when you get right down to it the steering knuckle is shot. So long story short I have two choices, try and take it to a professional and pay for the axle job and a new steering knuckle (I am destitute and cash poor like you would never believe but they might let us set up an account). Or I can keep trying to figure out how to get the bolt out, beacause it seems to me that that is the only way to get the knuckle off so you can get the axle in. I did try loosening that nut underneath the arm that the steering knuckle attatches to but I have nearly stripped that nut and looking at it I begin to think it's welded on? PLEASE GOD let SOMEBODY hvae an answer for me because it's my only car and my job depends on getting it fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 yeah.. I don't know about a couple of those bolts/nut seems like they dont come apart... Maybe you could get a new knuckle from a junk yard? wish i had better advice for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjs Posted August 9, 2005 Author Share Posted August 9, 2005 No you don't understand at ALL, if you can't get the bolt out you can't get the knuckle off EVER! I am totally ************ed I know it, anyone want a free subaru parts car? I might consider it seriously because I think this is irreperable damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Nuto 53 Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 yeah i would recommend a run to a junkyard, these cars are still fairly popular, and the entire knuckle assy should be under 20.00. unbolt the ball joint and pop that out, or replace the knuckle and control arm together.... everything unbolts except the wheel bearings (unless you have a bit of bad luck) odd you ran into rust out there. minnesota uses salt and has high humidity in the summer, its prime weather for rust, and i seldom break bolts or have to use torch. surely someone has some laying about, if you were here i could give you spares, but who wants to drive all the way out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 Yeah, its not that big of a deal. Is this where the tie rod end is attatched to the knuckle? or where the Ball joint holds the knuckle at the bottom? If its the tie rod end, then just remove the tie rod, get a new one... be done with it. If its at the bottom then all you need is a new ball joint. Maybe a picture would help. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 Yeah.. can't you take off whatever the knuckle is stuck to and replace it too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjs Posted August 9, 2005 Author Share Posted August 9, 2005 The bolt that is gone is the steering knuckles bottom bolt that holds the ball joint on. There is NO WAY POSSIBLE to seperate the ball joint from the knuckle. The nut under the control arm is completely seized as well, so no taking it off at that point either. The only option I see left is to take the control arm off at it's origin pont and change the axle that way? (Is that even possible?) The problem now is I spent ALL of my money on drills and cobalt bits, and do now I can't afford the extrvagant prices the boneyards want for the parts so I absolytely HAVE to fix this with the parts that are already on it. If I don't get this fixed I lose not only my car but my job, livelihood and will to live.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Nuto 53 Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 been there, recently.... still undecided,myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 The bolt that is gone is the steering knuckles bottom bolt that holds the ball joint on. There is NO WAY POSSIBLE to seperate the ball joint from the knuckle. So if I understand this correctly: The ball joint is held into the knuckle by a bolt on the back side of the knuckle that clamps it in, the service book shows loosening bolt and wedging in screwdriver to spread recess so ball joint can be pulled out. And you are telling us that the stud out of the bottom of Ball joint is broke off preventing extraction as having no stud to pull down on??? That sucks.... The nut under the control arm is completely seized as well, so no taking it off at that point either. The only option I see left is to take the control arm off at it's origin pont and change the axle that way? (Is that even possible?) Yes... I had to do something similar but I also had my Tie-rod disconnected and loosened the rubber bushing end of the Leading rod (count nut rotations) {The leading rod bushings are at the end of the rod that runs from the control arm back to the body}.... that gave me enough movement to pull out on knuckle and friend placed board over axel end and rapped with hammer to pop out axel... hmmm.... not to sound like an old dad...but just in case as your laying on your back and kind of panickie......Lefty Loose...righty tighty on that Castle nut? I havn't done that many but never one totally seized on.... Maybe a touch of heat on that nut? Even if you have too take out knuckle with drive shaft attached you may beable to wrestle on a work bench or something... I don't have that much experience with the front ends... but saw your post at 4am.... and... I feel your pain! If I don't get this fixed I lose not only my car but my job, livelihood and will to live.... ............. *I need to let my son see this post... the next time he wants to borrow my car and I tell him to grab his bike and he justs laughs like people actually don't have anyone too help them or faced with these life's problems.* Wow... I hate when things like that happen, horrible learning curve on these things. Panic isn't good... but it does help sometimes. A personal suggetion may be to first protect the job by any means...second fix car when parts and funds become available. You may now find out who your true friends are as you search for a ride or trade something of value for parts, cash, etc..... Sorry I don't know anyone in your neck of the woods or I would give them a call. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuckagain Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 The bolt that is gone is the steering knuckles bottom bolt that holds the ball joint on. There is NO WAY POSSIBLE to seperate the ball joint from the knuckle. The nut under the control arm is completely seized as well, so no taking it off at that point either. The only option I see left is to take the control arm off at it's origin pont and change the axle that way? (Is that even possible?) Shouldn't be a problem. Just remove bolt that holds the lower arm to the frame, take off everything else that needs to be taken off and the lower arm and the steering knuckle should come out together. You'll have to disconnect everything attached to the lower arm (except the ball joint of course) and do what you would have had to do to get the knuckle out as well. I just put a knuckle in this afternoon (did balljoints, wheel bearings and 1/2 shaft); removed the lower arm mounting bolt to make things easier. OBTW - did you use cutting oil when you tried to dirll out the bolt? Handy stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjs Posted August 9, 2005 Author Share Posted August 9, 2005 Still totally ************ed!!! I can't even budge the control arm mounting bolt and the nut on the other side has started to strip. I NEED this car and it seems the only choice I have left is to drive it till the axle breaks while searching for anothe $300 pos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 Is it 4wd? If it is, just drive it till the axel breaks, then remove the remains of the halfshaft from the DOJ and drive it in 4wd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjs Posted August 10, 2005 Author Share Posted August 10, 2005 I finally got the nut off the bottom of the control arm!!! I had to get a puller which didn't actually fit but still worked to get the ball joint stud out, but now she's all back together and running!!! Now the one remaining trouble is that the boneyard is closed for vacation so I have to use the old ball joint which is now a permanent fixture of the steering knuckle because of the snapped bolt. Oh well even though the ball joint boot is cracked it isn't shot yet, and this will buy me some time to get a steering knuckle and ball joint from the boneyard when they are back from vacation. I should get several miles out of my badly booted ball joint anyway and don't have to worry now about my axle breaking (It is front wheel drive only so that was a concern). VICTORY AT LONG LAST!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 Glad you got it going. What part do you really need? I might be able to pick it up at the Lynnwood PAP; or I might have the part you need in my "stash." Let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjs Posted August 10, 2005 Author Share Posted August 10, 2005 I need a steering knuckle for an '84 GL Wagon 1800 Front Wheel Drive, and a decent conditon ball joint for same, but don't speand any real money yet as I just don't have 2 dimes to rub together right now, so it will be a while before I could pay for the parts, still I think she'll hold together ok for some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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