romcat Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 Hey Listers: In moving back from New Jersey to Toronto, my heavily laden car took approx. 4 more hours to get me home than my wifes Camry would. Thats too slow. There were grades that I could barely hold 45mph on! SO; I want to look at increasing power by 10-20 hp. I'm sure the Mass flow sensor and Oxy sensor are not working or faulty- takes a bit to come back to idle even in warm weather. I was thinking of doing the obvious: 1/. Slightly mope ope exhaust 2/. K&N in filter box OK, so the air is moving better. What would people suggest next? 3/. Cams; more interested in low-mid-range 4/. Bore kit; up to 2000 or 2100cc.? When I was a motorcycle mechanics apprentice about a gazillion years ago my boss taught me that to make more power from an IC engine you can; a) make it bigger spin it faster c) make it breath better The tranny is a bit of a problem to. The 1st (5Spd-AWD) is very low and doesn't bridge to 2nd very well. The car plain falls off the cams! The old carbed model had a page for power inprovements; distributor change, electric fan, thermostat change... any idea which of those will work on an FI; 93 1.8??? Thanks all Gareth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 Here's some ideas: 1: 2" cat back exhaust 2: Just swap out the enitre air box with one of those cone air filters. 3: Delta Camshaft in WA can help you there. 4: Well, as far as I can tell, there's really no way to bore it. But, I think the SPFI pistons still have higher compression ratio than MPFI. You could put those in there. And, deck the heads no more then 10 thousanths. I've got a specially built engine in mine: SPFI pistons, decked heads, and the Torque grind from Delta Camshaft. That really boosted the power on my Suby. When I switched to SPFI, that improved my mileage and hiway performance. Or, you could just put an EJ 22 in there. It needs an adaptor plate to mount the EJ engine to the EA series tranny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
romcat Posted August 10, 2005 Author Share Posted August 10, 2005 Hi there: Unfortunately the car is my basic transportation, so I'm leery of going to a Piston swap. The Torque grind you mentioned what did that cost for the two? What did the compression change come out to from changing the piston's and decking the head? Were you able to still use Regular fuel? Finally what's involved on swapping to an EJ22? Where is the adapter plate available from? Cheers, Gareth Here's some ideas:1: 2" cat back exhaust 2: Just swap out the enitre air box with one of those cone air filters. 3: Delta Camshaft in WA can help you there. 4: Well, as far as I can tell, there's really no way to bore it. But, I think the SPFI pistons still have higher compression ratio than MPFI. You could put those in there. And, deck the heads no more then 10 thousanths. I've got a specially built engine in mine: SPFI pistons, decked heads, and the Torque grind from Delta Camshaft. That really boosted the power on my Suby. When I switched to SPFI, that improved my mileage and hiway performance. Or, you could just put an EJ 22 in there. It needs an adaptor plate to mount the EJ engine to the EA series tranny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 I thnk it was around 60 a side for the cam regrind. Here's they're website: http://www.deltacam.com I am getting compression readings of around 150. My siblings' roos are about 120ish. I have no probelm running regular fuel in there. Although, Suby is happiest on Chevron. As far as the EJ conversion goes: From what I've read here, you would need the engine, ECU, and wriring harness. Prefrebly out of a manual tranny roo: less wires. I think you use the EA82 clutch and flywheel, just redrill the flywheel to fit the EJ22. You can also do a search and you'll find many a post on the subject. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
romcat Posted August 11, 2005 Author Share Posted August 11, 2005 Hi: Sorry I meant compression ratio. The piston change and head decking should have brought it up some? Cheers, Gareth I thnk it was around 60 a side for the cam regrind. Here's they're website: http://www.deltacam.comI am getting compression readings of around 150. My siblings' roos are about 120ish. I have no probelm running regular fuel in there. Although, Suby is happiest on Chevron. As far as the EJ conversion goes: From what I've read here, you would need the engine, ECU, and wriring harness. Prefrebly out of a manual tranny roo: less wires. I think you use the EA82 clutch and flywheel, just redrill the flywheel to fit the EJ22. You can also do a search and you'll find many a post on the subject. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 Yes, it did bring it up some. The SPFI pistons have a 9.5:1 ratio, so with the heads decked, I would guess at maybe 10:1? Not really sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 You could always put an ea82t in there, if you're not keen on the EJ thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobmater Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 for basics, go with a 2inch exhaust.im not sure where you live but if you dont have to pass emsions, then get rid of the cat. the ej22 would give you tons of power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Sub4WD Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 Your power problems sound like you need to tune your engine before you start modding - replace the O2 sensor, check plugs, wire, cap, rotor as well as timing - should be 20-degrees before top dead center at idle - I have been able to hold 75 with 1,500-2,000lbs of weight in my car (even when it was carbed), and I can still hold at least 55 on a 6% incline. As it was originally carbed, it has a 9:1 compression ratio, not the normal SPFI 9.5:1 which you already have stock - bottom line - there should be more power there than you are getting, even in stock form. The gear chatter in 1st is common in these cars (you really can't downshift into 1st unless you are almost stopped), if you haven't done so already, change your gear oil in the transaxle with synthetic 75w90 - I used Mobil 1 - made a world of difference. Are you sure it is AWD - in 93' they only made a pushbutton 4WD for these cars (Loyale). Having it in 4WD all the time would cause the gears/tires/driveline to bind, give you crappy power, mileage, and super-fast tire wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
romcat Posted August 12, 2005 Author Share Posted August 12, 2005 Hi There: It is the push button 4WD. The light on the console shows it not being on so I'm going to assume its correct!? The check engine light was on when I bought it months ago and my mechanic said it was either the Mass Flow or O2 sensor both of which will impact on the fuel/air mixture. I think once that's done and I see if rreplacing the exhaust with a 2" output pipe and a K&N we'll see where we are. I think the plugs/cap... etc. is a good idea too. My old 86 the timing was off and my mechanic wouldn't listen to me! I could feel it wasn't pulling right but he was like "Hey, I'm the Mechanic, your the computer guy!" Course he forgot I had been a motorcycle mechanic for a few years in the miid-80's. I just added some gear oil. What was on the dipstick (it was reading just below low!) was very clean. I'll likely go with Redline when It comes time to replacce it. The fact is if I get back to near 90 hp that it came with it probably would be fine. It's got some dings but the body is in excellent condition, and the motor only has 131,000 miles on it less than 1/2 of what my 86 had when the frame rotted through. Thanks for your ideas, I think the simple way you've suggested will do fine. Cheers, Gareth Your power problems sound like you need to tune your engine before you start modding - replace the O2 sensor, check plugs, wire, cap, rotor as well as timing - should be 20-degrees before top dead center at idle - I have been able to hold 75 with 1,500-2,000lbs of weight i Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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