Mig Welding on Older Subarus?

[Rallywagon]

Anyone have specific experience in welding on the early 80's models?

 

- wire recommendations,

-voltages,

- preparation tips for repairing rust outs.

 

Thanks.

[Ross]

Done plenty. Just mild steel wire is all you need, don't mess around with flux cored, get a bottle of carbon dioxide (you don't need argon or argo-shield for MIGing thin mild steel).

You should mess around with your welder settings on a piece of scrap if you are unsure. Just make sure you get proper penetration.

With rust in visible areas, i like to cut out quite a bit of extra room around the rust, then weld a patch slightly inside the original line of the panel.

Clean off the weld with angle grinder or whatever (flap sanding discs are the way to go with angle grinders - yes they are more expensive, but they last much longer and are really nice to use).

Then you can fill the area with your favorite bog to give that perfect finish.

[Hondasucks]

With my Lincoln buzz box, I'd usually run it at about A-B on the voltage and like 3 or 4 on the wire feed, I'm not sure what gauge metal Subies use but there is a guide on the side cover (at least on Lincoln MIG welders). They do recommend that during any welding operation, especially on a vehicle and ESPECIALLY on one with a computer, put the ground clamp as close to the weld as possible (Dont' want the arc jumping door hinges, bearings, etc..) and disconnect the battery and unplug the computer. It's not TOO much of a big deal with mig welding since it's DC, but getting all your electronics unplugged when TIG welding is a must, especially if you are using AC (But even if you are on DC, a lot of TIG welders will use a high frequency voltage to start the arc)

[Rallywagon]

Thanks for the tips! I was afraid it was gonna be impossible... I had heard Subaru metal was very thin and difficult.

[Ross]

Nah, you should be sweet as.

 

Its when you start tackling old half rusted through exhausts that you'll start to swear!

[monstaru]

my friend did some welding on the brat and the areas that are fairly rusty need to be completely cut out to fresh steel.somebody said that i guess but, if you start out mild , as in any situation, you should be alright.he had some difficulty in the burning holes dept.he is a competant welder.i just figured it was due to thin steel.but it can be done.

[Adam N.D.J.]

Thanks for the tips! I was afraid it was gonna be impossible... I had heard Subaru metal was very thin and difficult.

 

With welders, they run off the amount of voltage and amperage run through the metal. If you are running on your lowest setting, and still burning holes in the metal, then drop the voltage even more. To do this, the easiest way is to go out and get some good size lengths of heavy duty extension cords. I have 3 25 footers that I use. As you use more footage, this adds more resistance to the line into the welders, and thus, produces a lower output. So that if you are using a 110volt unit, and you have a 50 foot extension leading to it, then you will be running off approximatly 90 volts. At least with my power at my house this is how it is. I drop about 10 volts every 25 feet. Your results may vary. In the end though, it allows you to put down nice long beads that will hold better and go faster than tacking, grinding, tacking grinding, tacking....you know the drill.

[Indrid cold]

50 foot extension leading to it, then you will be running off approximatly 90 volts. At least with my power at my house this is how it is. I drop about 10 volts every 25 feet.

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LOL.... never heard of such a thing.... creating resistance to reduce amperage.... clever!!!

 

This made my day! Can't wait to tell the welders at work about that one

 

Never tried to do autobody welding... some day.... some day.....