Several questions re:86 brat

[Lukeortner]

I'm pretty new to subarus and automechanics in general, but over the last few months I've taught myself a decent amount and messed up enough to learn the hard way. I've recently revived an '86 brat (ea81/4-speed) with about 140,000 miles on it, and I've run into a few problems that I can't figure out. I suppose I'll list them out. If any of you have any ideas/solutions I would really appreciate it.

 

1. I've heard that there is some kind of manually adjusting suspension on this thing. How do I adjust it. Does anyone know where I might find some pics?

(This is, of course, my number one priority )

 

2. My tachometer intermittently jumps around. Engine operation does not seem to be affected when it does this. I took this to a shop for something else and the mechanic seems to think it's the head of the tach in the dash. Any other solutions?

 

3. It generally idles smoothly,(a little low when it firsts starts up), but occasionaly cuts out the slightest bit as soon as I give it some gas. If I push the accelerator gently there is no problem, it's only when I give it a lot of gas quickly. The engine doesn't die, it just seems to skip out for a moment.

 

4. There is a slight (again, intermittent) knocking or clunking noise from the front end of the vehicle. I imagine it's nothing in the engine as it doesn't occur when the vehicle is not moving. The noise is not constant and I have not been able to find a pattern to when it does or does not occur. It feels and sounds like I'm going over many small bumps when it happens.

 

Any takers?

 

Thanks again for any help you can offer!

[Lukeortner]

Anyone have any ideas?

[Humble Nuto 53]

on the front, some struts have two adjusters just above the tyre, gives you about an inch more height.

on the rear, you can crank up the tension a bit more by removing the back seat bottom and prying up the rubber cap, and screwing that bolt down. i think its a 14mm (so many sube nuts/bolts are) also give you about an inch.

*two wheel drive cars have neither of these adjustments*

if you wanna go nuts on the rear, you can remove the suspension arm from the torsion bar, and reinstall it a few splines from stock.

 

some have installed coil-over style rear shocks also, search the board for details.

 

 

ive heard a jumpy tach can be a symptom of a dying distributor, either bushing, or internal electronics. havent heard of any other tach woes (except digi dash)

 

 

spooky throttle response could be symptomatic of a vacuum leak somewhere.

the only vacuum line you really need (unless youre subject to inspections) is the line from the carb to the distributor and from the intake to the brake booster.

 

 

last point might be a wheel bearing going out or perhaps an inner joint on your axel. outer joints usually announce their displeasure with sharp clicking sounds during a turn (test in parking lot, tight u-turns) inner joints can be a bit more elusive...

 

wheel bearing can frequently be diagnosed by slalom type maneuvers.

the bearing cartridge has two bearings within. usually only one side goes bad, so if you load then unload the bad side you can usually hear/feel it.

also you can jack up one side and grab the wheel top and bottom and try to wiggle it... any slop not attributed to the ball joint indicates a loose/worn wheel bearing.

 

 

also possible is that the axel nut has become loose and is possibly stripping out the axel to hub splines. see if theres any metallic dust around the nut, and certainy apply large large wrench/extension pipe and torque it down.

recommended 145 ft/lbs... meaning about as tight as you can get it without flipping the car...

[Ross]

To add to the jumpy tach: This can be caused by bad grounding. Does it jump when you turn something on or off (eg the lights, heater fan)???

[TomRhere]

You'll have to get under the BRAT to do the rear suspension adjustment. The adjuster bolt is on the front-top of the torque-tube.

 

http://www.philbingroup.com/ These people can re-bush your disty, can even rebuild the vacuum advance unit.

 

The hesitation when you apply throttle is most likely the carb itself, after all of these years, it be getting tired and worn. The accelerator pump is probally worn enough to not give a proper squirt of gas when you open the throttle. You can just replace the pump, but a rebuild of the carb would be better. Think you can get a rebuilt carb from these people http://www.recarbco.com/index.html not sure on price though.

[edrach]

Intermittant jumpy tach is almost always a worn bushing and play in the distributor if you have checked the ignition wiring and sparkplug wires and found them okay. It's easy to check the bushing; remove the distributor cap and wiggle the rotor shaft side to side. If it has play, that's what causes the jumpy tach; I agree with Tom on Philbin. If you need the Brat as your daily driver, pull another distributor at the wrecking yard and send that in for rebuild with the pertainent info to Philbin about your car. If you have a choice, get a Hitachi distributor rather than the NipponDenso (my personal preference).

 

Tom is also correct about the torsion adjuster location to raise/lower the rear suspension somewhat. The front suspension can be adjusted by the two nuts at the center of the the front strut on each side of the car. All those adjustments are probably pretty frozen by now and might not want to adjust easily.

 

If you can't resolve the problems with the carb, replacing it with a weber 32/36 DGAV will resolve that if you can do it without running afoul of the emissions testing in your state. Each state is different in what's allowed.

 

 

I'd suggest a manual to get you some info. How to Keep Your Subaru Alive is a good basic manual if you're not familiar with the car. Haynes and Chilton's are pretty much useless unless you have nothing better. The Factory Service Manual will have more information than you need but is difficult to decipher sometimes. There is a Bentley manual which is a fine re-write of the FSM and is quite useful. Both the Bentley manual and HTKYSA (1st edition good until '84; 2nd edition good until '88) show up on ebay or on the USMB; try the used books sections of Amazon or Powell's or any other book dealer. I wouldn't spend more than $20 for HTKYSA (less for 1st edition) or more than $40 for the Bentley. Sometimes you can score a copy for less (I have:) ). Search the USMB for more info on them. There is a copy of the HTKYSA on CD floating around if you can find one. Good luck with your fine Brat.

[Lukeortner]

Thank all of you guys so much! You've been very helpful. As soon as I get some of this stuff done I'll post back to tell you how it went. As I mentioned, I am new to this stuff, so it may take a while. Again, thanks for everything!

[NorthWet]

... If you can't resolve the problems with the carb, replacing it with a weber 32/36 DGAV will resolve that if you can do it without running afoul of the emissions testing in your state. Each state is different in what's allowed...

 

Picky, picky picky: No state allows you to do this. The Federal Government forbids it (EPA regulations). Perhaps what edrach meant was that each state is different in what you might get away with. :-p

[Lukeortner]

Northwet,

 

I just moved to New Mexico and though I haven't registered my car here, I've been told that there is no emissions inspection here? Any other New Mexicans on the board?

[NorthWet]

I am a New Mexican... but not in the last 47 years.

 

In general, States without large population centers (metro areas with total population in the millions) and/or geographical features that tend to "collect" pollutants do not have much, if any, emissions testing.

 

If you live around Albuquerque or Santa Fe, there MIGHT be testing. My suggestion is that if you don't know, then ask your vehicle licensing agency if you have to get an emissions test before you can register your car.