belizeanbus Posted August 13, 2005 Share Posted August 13, 2005 hello out there in subaru land... a couple of questions regarding a big project that will begin tomorrow: 1. Does anyone have a link to the disappeared USRM engine (EA82) removal article? I recall seeing it and thinking it was straightforward and would be an immense help, but I never copied it,...just figured it would always be there. Now, I'm looking at my Chilton's, and it just doesn't have that same effect. If anyone has it saved in their computer somewhere and could email it to me, that would be awesome as well. 2. The planned proceedure will be a reseal on an EA82 from a 92 loyale. I had to take the radiator out last weekend and then I just figured that while I'm at it, I may as well do my best to rejuvenate the engine (which has 210,000 miles on it). Anyway, on a couple of occasions recently when my wife was driving it, after a long haul...say an hour on the highway, it would cut out on her. That's to say, when she stopped somewhere, it would either die, or when she went to start again after a short break, it just wouldn't stay running. Give it an hour, and it would start as good as new. She also mentioned that the last few times she drove it, it was pretty gutless off the line with the A/C on. Fine with it off. Any ideas what the cause might be? While I'm doing my best to make her like new, I figure I should cover all my bases. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted August 13, 2005 Share Posted August 13, 2005 if it only dies at idle, it might be the iac. idle air control vavles can get sticky over time and stick in the closed position or not fully open, in which case, the care chokes at idle because not enough air is getting around the throttle plates to keep it alive. sorry i cant help with the link to the usrm or better yet, help you pull the engine. its really easy to do, i think its like 4-5 bell housing bolts, the two motor mounts and the fluids and electrical connections. it usally comes out really easy if te radiator is out and you have a hoist. if i hada hoist, i could most likely pull it in like 30 minutes to an hour. my luck though, id loose my ratchet and spend an hour looking, then something else would come up and id never actuially get it out. but thats just my luck. gppd luck. peace tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobBrumby Posted August 13, 2005 Share Posted August 13, 2005 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/subrepair.htmShould have oone there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petersubaru Posted August 13, 2005 Share Posted August 13, 2005 on one occassion I removed the the front grill and bumper and walked the motor out..and another time I first removed the heads and then piked the block up and out of the car by myself..I must say it would be much easier with a friend on each side of the car and almost a must when installing it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belizeanbus Posted August 13, 2005 Author Share Posted August 13, 2005 Thanks for the info. I checked the suggested site and the engine removal article is not there...(at least I can't seem to find it). So, I figured I'd bring this one back to the top to see if any one online today has the engine removal article saved. I know how to approach it, since I've done and oil pan gasket with the engine in the car, but a step by step for disconnecting hoses and electrical is what I'm after. Anyone have that article? Thanks, belizeanbus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted August 13, 2005 Share Posted August 13, 2005 pretty much start at the top of the engine and if looks like it needs removed, remove it I just did this job, and it wasn't too bad. I've heard that if you don't want to undo most of the stuff from the manifold, you can just unbolt it and move it out of the way into the spare tire area. Otherwise, just make a mental note, or take a picture, of where everything goes. The AC will unbolt and move to the battery holder spot allowing you to not de-pressurize the system. The power steering will just unbolt from the engine and sit on the front grill area. It's pretty flexible, so you can put it just about anywhere it's out of the way. All the electrical connections are keyed and individual, so there is no way to mis-connect them when it goes back together. Once everything is out of the way, you can unbolt the engine from the tranny, and remove the starter. I used a jack under the oil pan with a block of wood to lift the engine slightly, then slid the jack/engine forward to clear the tranny. A combination of moving forward/raising the jack will get it pretty high and out of the way. When it was high enough a friend and I reached in and pulled it out. An engine hoist would've been really nice. Once the engine is out, the front of the tranny will sit on the crossmember just fine. On re-installation, you may need another jack to hold the tranny up a bit to aid in re-alignment. More than anything though, just keep track of where stuff goes. If you unplug/unhook it, either label it, or lay it out somewhere in a meaningfull manner (ie, lay all pcv hoses out like they are on the engine, not just a pile of hoses) good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSPFI Posted August 14, 2005 Share Posted August 14, 2005 If your car is lifted, its wise to jack the front of the tranny up a few inches... makes life easy when it comes to getting that engine out at that newly aquired angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiningstar76 Posted August 14, 2005 Share Posted August 14, 2005 Its all about taking photos, I know I can never remember where everything goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikvr Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 hello out there in subaru land... a couple of questions regarding a big project that will begin tomorrow: 1. Does anyone have a link to the disappeared USRM engine (EA82) removal article? I recall seeing it and thinking it was straightforward and would be an immense help, but I never copied it,...just figured it would always be there. Now, I'm looking at my Chilton's, and it just doesn't have that same effect. If anyone has it saved in their computer somewhere and could email it to me, that would be awesome as well. 2. The planned proceedure will be a reseal on an EA82 from a 92 loyale. I had to take the radiator out last weekend and then I just figured that while I'm at it, I may as well do my best to rejuvenate the engine (which has 210,000 miles on it). Anyway, on a couple of occasions recently when my wife was driving it, after a long haul...say an hour on the highway, it would cut out on her. That's to say, when she stopped somewhere, it would either die, or when she went to start again after a short break, it just wouldn't stay running. Give it an hour, and it would start as good as new. She also mentioned that the last few times she drove it, it was pretty gutless off the line with the A/C on. Fine with it off. Any ideas what the cause might be? While I'm doing my best to make her like new, I figure I should cover all my bases. Thanks. The out of print How to Keep your Subaru Alive book has a nice step by step engine removal process, with handy tips on how to keep all of those hoses and bolts nice and organized. The book only goes to 1988, but is good for all EA82s. Try a search on Amazon. I had to pay some big bucks for mine, but man.......it is the best repair book out there. Tons of tips, tricks and illustrations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyrider Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 I dont know why Milesfox write up is gone it was very straight forward. The best thing to do when it comes to hoses and wires is get some masking tape and a marker. tape everything you disconnect and mark on the tape where it goes. this is one of the suggestions from the book keeping your subaru alive. i think its about 100 bucks now unless you find a used one or a library!!!!! that has one. I have a good memory and a de-emissioned ea81 so i think i had like 10-15 pieces of tape to keep track of. you may be looking at alot more but it's worth your time to tape everything. I took pics with my digi but ended up erasing em before i could use em this may help you alot though with the amount of stuff your looking at disconnecting. you and a buddy ought to be able to jerk the engine out of there it helps to have a third. putting it back in two guys and gravity works great. the jack on the tranny helps to get the angle right for removal and insertion. if you pull the clutch you may want to get the clutch a-lingement<sp> tool although i just used my finger and eyeball and it came out fine. I just set mine on a five gallon bucket, oil pan in the bucket.(milesfox suggestion) Make sure you have time i was figuring on a week and it took two, alot of bike rides to the parts store made me think twice as to why i didnt get everything together first.... but i like riding my bike....... if your hitting the head gaskets up. try to torque those studs before you put a seal in there and torque things down I had a stripped stud and blew the gasket apart. just another ride to the parts store...... with any luck you can use some of this info:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikvr Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 I dont know why Milesfox write up is gone it was very straight forward. The best thing to do when it comes to hoses and wires is get some masking tape and a marker. tape everything you disconnect and mark on the tape where it goes. this is one of the suggestions from the book keeping your subaru alive. i think its about 100 bucks now unless you find a used one or a library!!!!! that has one. I have a good memory and a de-emissioned ea81 so i think i had like 10-15 pieces of tape to keep track of. you may be looking at alot more but it's worth your time to tape everything. I took pics with my digi but ended up erasing em before i could use em this may help you alot though with the amount of stuff your looking at disconnecting. you and a buddy ought to be able to jerk the engine out of there it helps to have a third. putting it back in two guys and gravity works great. the jack on the tranny helps to get the angle right for removal and insertion. if you pull the clutch you may want to get the clutch a-lingement<sp> tool although i just used my finger and eyeball and it came out fine. I just set mine on a five gallon bucket, oil pan in the bucket.(milesfox suggestion) Make sure you have time i was figuring on a week and it took two, alot of bike rides to the parts store made me think twice as to why i didnt get everything together first.... but i like riding my bike....... if your hitting the head gaskets up. try to torque those studs before you put a seal in there and torque things down I had a stripped stud and blew the gasket apart. just another ride to the parts store...... with any luck you can use some of this info:) Miles fox website is moved to http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/ I wrote him and the first site he used went bye-bye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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