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Prepping an 86 BRAT for Rally-X...


WRCGVR4
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Hey, everybody! Thanks for welcoming me aboard! I am new to Rally-X and am prepping an 86 BRAT to compete. I had a few questions for the BRATphiles out there:

 

1. Does anyone make front strut tower bars for the 2G BRAT or will bars from any other vehicle fit?

2. Does anyone manufacture stainless steel brake lines for the 2G BRAT?

3. Are there any brake upgrades that can be fitted and still retain the stock 13" wheels?

4. Does anyone manufacture fender extensions, etc that fit the 2G?

 

I would welcome any advice relating to prepping it for Rally-X!

 

Thanks!

 

Bill

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You can get rear disc brakes from almost any turbo EA82 Subaru. They are a direct bolt on, and there is no need for any modification to the braking system.

 

Also, there is a napa part # for some brake lines, you maybe able to find them in steel.

 

And I do not know of any manufacturer of strut bars for Brats, but it shouldnt be hard to come up with one.

 

-Brian

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Cool! Thanks for the advice! By turbo EA82, I assume that would be a turbo wagon, XT turbo, etc? I'll look into the NAPA for the brake lines and keep my eye out for a suitable strut tower bar.

 

 

And yeah, an EJ set up sure would be nice! Have to see how all this goes...

 

And yes, modifying the BRAT beyond stock will throw me in with the fully prepped WRXs & EVOs, but I am looking to cut my teeth on an underpowered 4WD, before I start running my modified Mitsubishi Galant VR4. I need to learn fundamental car control, suspension, conserving speed,--before I add 300WHP to the mix!

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And yes, modifying the BRAT beyond stock will throw me in with the fully prepped WRXs & EVOs, but I am looking to cut my teeth on an underpowered 4WD, before I start running my modified Mitsubishi Galant VR4. I need to learn fundamental car control, suspension, conserving speed,--before I add 300WHP to the mix!

I like the attitude of cutting ones teeth first. :) Being able to buy power is not a substitute for discipline and experience. To that end, I would suggest that you try your stock (if well prepped for the stock category) Brat for a while. It is hard to overestimate how valuable being competitive can be to your learning experience: You need some success.

 

And underpowered is relative: I can get my sedan into a 4-wheel powerslide pretty easily, and it has an automatic transmission.

 

Strut bar shouldn't be too hard to fabricate. And an EJ22's power would be awesome, but its weight will have to be dealt with.

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Thanks, Northwet. I had not really looked at it that way in regard to competing in stock to learn car control and gain some (hopeful) success.

 

And I meant underpowered relative to the fully prepped WRXs and EVOs I would be competing against in the "anything goes" class. The BRAT has proved to be a hoot so far.

 

Thanks for the link Brian! I might try stock for a few rounds while I track down parts for the rear conversion and a Weber.

 

BTW-Is there a forum for parts for sale?

 

Thanks again, guys!

 

Bill

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Also, although I do not have any experience yet, I have heard (and would tend to agree), that turbos are not all that useful for the slow-speed, fast throttle response of RallyX. Unless you can keep the engine wound up and in the boost region, turbo'd cars are pretty sluggish. My 3AT sedan (for my kids, once they get their licenses) has an SPFI engine, and it is far more pleasurable to fling around at low speed than my Turbowagon with 5-speed. (but nothing quite beats the feeling of turbo-boost!)

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Also, although I do not have any experience yet, I have heard (and would tend to agree), that turbos are not all that useful for the slow-speed, fast throttle response of RallyX. Unless you can keep the engine wound up and in the boost region, turbo'd cars are pretty sluggish. My 3AT sedan (for my kids, once they get their licenses) has an SPFI engine, and it is far more pleasurable to fling around at low speed than my Turbowagon with 5-speed. (but nothing quite beats the feeling of turbo-boost!)

 

Ha-Ha! You're right. Next to highly tuned naturally aspirated, nothing compares to the feeling of turbo boost!

 

BTW-I saw the Subaru Marketplace. Not sure how I missed it in the first place!

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...BTW-I saw the Subaru Marketplace. Not sure how I missed it in the first place!

It took me several weeks before I quit feeling like a tourist in New York City - looking around with my mouth hanging open. Keep looking around and asking questions; this is a great place! In 27 years of my working with computers, this is the first Forum that I have bothered to look at more than once.

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It seems to me that these mods would put your Brat out of its league, as into the "anything goes" RallyCross category. Would it be competitive against a fully prepped WRX?

 

It can be competitive. I have won open class before in my Brat. I have also set 2nd fastest session times as well. This is with the EA81( no where near stock though).

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Besides the rear disc brake upgrade, you should need anything done to your brakes because your on dirt. I am in the same boat right now with trying to prep my hatchback for this weekend. I am reverting from my 93 turbo legacy to the hatch to see how well i can compete in production class with an older subie. This is my first pre-90 subaru and i excited to see how it feels! :D

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My dream rally-x Brat is an EJ engine (90s-current) w/ a dual range FT4WD gearbox. I think that this drivetrain in a Brat (w/ suspension and brake upgrades) would be impressive.

 

Just my 2¢

 

Thats MY BRAT!

It shocks just about everyone,

I highly reccomend it.

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Brats can be competetive, they are proven.

 

They race in the truck/suv class which is a form of open class and allows most mods. Check the rule book specific to your region.

 

I have a Rally Cross RX, most of what I did you can apply to the Brat.

 

I got the basically stock engine running and performing really well with a clean effecient fuel system and bigger exhaust. It should be legal for you to use a Weber carb and high flow air cleaner. Make sure your cooling system is adequate.

 

I added front and rear strut tower bars.

 

I added front camber plates to get rid of the 1+ degree of positive camber Soobs come with stock and took it to around 1 degree negative camber and added a bit of caster.

 

I replaced all of the suspension bushings with aftermarket urethane bushing from Superpro, including the rack bushings. Check out post by PORTER, that's the guy to get them from. This keeps the tire square to the ground and helps the steering to be precise.

 

I put the biggest sway bar I could find on the rear and left the front one stock.

 

I removed around 300 pounds of useless weight from the car including the A/C some interior, etc. Every pound makes a difference on these low powered cars.

 

I got the best tread pattern I could find that is legal in my class.

 

As Zap said, the driver is a key element, get some seat time and work on your mental game.

 

Good luck, keep us posted, Rally Cross is a blast!

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  • 5 months later...

OK, so I know this post is several months old...but my point is, the search function actually works! I had been trying to find where to get bushings online with no definite luck...then I find this post....

 

Not too mention it fired me up to get to work on fixing my Brat!

 

Brats can be competetive, they are proven.

 

They race in the truck/suv class which is a form of open class and allows most mods. Check the rule book specific to your region.

 

I have a Rally Cross RX, most of what I did you can apply to the Brat.

 

I got the basically stock engine running and performing really well with a clean effecient fuel system and bigger exhaust. It should be legal for you to use a Weber carb and high flow air cleaner. Make sure your cooling system is adequate.

 

I added front and rear strut tower bars.

 

I added front camber plates to get rid of the 1+ degree of positive camber Soobs come with stock and took it to around 1 degree negative camber and added a bit of caster.

 

I replaced all of the suspension bushings with aftermarket urethane bushing from Superpro, including the rack bushings. Check out post by PORTER, that's the guy to get them from. This keeps the tire square to the ground and helps the steering to be precise.

 

I put the biggest sway bar I could find on the rear and left the front one stock.

 

I removed around 300 pounds of useless weight from the car including the A/C some interior, etc. Every pound makes a difference on these low powered cars.

 

I got the best tread pattern I could find that is legal in my class.

 

As Zap said, the driver is a key element, get some seat time and work on your mental game.

 

Good luck, keep us posted, Rally Cross is a blast!

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