Dilemma on Used Engine or Crankshaft

[Roamer]

Well unfortunately I received some bad news that my 97 OBW fell ill to the Shaking Crankshaft pulley which eventually bent the crankshaft.

 

So my mechanic tells me that he can just throw in a new key and pulley but there is a 90% chance that the pulley will come off again, and in the alternate its probably better to just throw in a used engine.

 

My current engine has 165K miles on it but I know that it is a decent and strong engine otherwise from this crank problem. I am skeptical about used engines (I live in NYC), and a remanufactured one simply put is not worth the money given the year and mileage of other parts on the car. So what would you guys here do if you were stuck in my shoes. Take the risk and drop in a used engine or take another risk and just drop in a new pulley and key and just drive it till it dies even with the pulley shaking. Man todays a bad day for me.

[Lawsonmh15]

Give the re-keying a shot. Before I argue that your camshaft is fine, realistically, how long were you driving before you realized there was a prob and had it towed?

 

If less than 7 miles or so, I'd imagine you're fine. That's about how far I went and my mechanic (10 year subie tech) put in a woodruff key and new pulley and I was back on the road. Runs better than ever.

 

It sounds to me like this guy wants to make $$$ on an engine (or at least the labor of removal and installation of). I was quoted 1.5 hours labor to do the key and pulley. Both are simple, and these guys are paid to have the tools to make it the work as quick and easy as possible.

 

Neither are the cheapest of options, but the key and pulley are a whole hell of a lot cheaper than either of the alternatives (especially if the shaft is fine:brow:).

 

 

I could be wrong here, but when my pulley broke loose on me it would strip the bolt so loose that pulley was no longer attached to the chrank shaft. That would simply mean that there would be no tension putting the shaft off axis. I would imagine if you were doing serious damage to the camshaft and engine, you would hear, feel it being done. I'd imagine you would notice a difference in timing. With what your mechanic implies, the pulley would be an integral part to the stability of the engine. In reality, it was simply adapted to, in order to "power" auxillary devices. i.e. steering, A.C., alternator. True, you lose power steering, but it still steers, no ac, no power for stereo, lights, batt. But I'll bet your engine still ran fine as you pulled to the side of the road. No grinding or thumping to be heard or felt. After discovering that a fallen spark plug could cause a tactile rattle throught the pedals and steering assembly, I'd have you imagine you'd feel a serious thud...

 

My 2 cents. Don't let em' hose ya' man!!!

[Roamer]

Give the re-keying a shot. Before I argue that your camshaft is fine, realistically, how long were you driving before you realized there was a prob and had it towed?

 

If less than 7 miles or so, I'd imagine you're fine. That's about how far I went and my mechanic (10 year subie tech) put in a woodruff key and new pulley and I was back on the road. Runs better than ever.

 

It sounds to me like this guy wants to make $$$ on an engine (or at least the labor of removal and installation of). I was quoted 1.5 hours labor to do the key and pulley. Both are simple, and these guys are paid to have the tools to make it the work as quick and easy as possible.

 

Neither are the cheapest of options, but the key and pulley are a whole hell of a lot cheaper than either of the alternatives (especially if the shaft is fine:brow:).

 

 

I could be wrong here, but when my pulley broke loose on me it would strip the bolt so loose that pulley was no longer attached to the chrank shaft. That would simply mean that there would be no tension putting the shaft off axis. I would imagine if you were doing serious damage to the camshaft and engine, you would hear, feel it being done. I'd imagine you would notice a difference in timing. With what your mechanic implies, the pulley would be an integral part to the stability of the engine. In reality, it was simply adapted to, in order to "power" auxillary devices. i.e. steering, A.C., alternator. True, you lose power steering, but it still steers, no ac, no power for stereo, lights, batt. But I'll bet your engine still ran fine as you pulled to the side of the road. No grinding or thumping to be heard or felt. After discovering that a fallen spark plug could cause a tactile rattle throught the pedals and steering assembly, I'd have you imagine you'd feel a serious thud...

 

My 2 cents. Don't let em' hose ya' man!!!

 

 

Thanks dude for your input, I am going to roll the dice and just have the car re-keyed with a new pulley, I mean I drove the thing for awhile and the engine was running normal and smooth no noise or anything. Is it possible that the crankshaft is slightly damaged but still mechanically will work?

[frag]

Thanks dude for your input, I am going to roll the dice and just have the car re-keyed with a new pulley, I mean I drove the thing for awhile and the engine was running normal and smooth no noise or anything. Is it possible that the crankshaft is slightly damaged but still mechanically will work?

 

Be aware that it's only the front tip of the crankshaft that may be damaged, the part that sticks out and holds the pulley. I dont see how a wobbling crank pulley could "bend" a crankshaft.

Some people here had that damaged part of the crankshaft (keyway) welded and a new kewway cut. Wait a while and they will probably chime in with good advice.

[q240z]

The crank damper isn't just for turning belts. It holds the timing belt gear in place. It's got a rubber isolator that helps to counteract engine vibrations, too. When it's not firmly attached to the crank, those vibrations start hammering bearings and work hardening things.

 

A good mechanic should be able to look at the crank nose and keyway and know whether or not it can be salvaged. You cannot weld a crank and cut a keyway with the crank still in the engine.

 

If it was me, I'd take a good look at the crank nose and keyway slot. If they're not FUBARed, toss on a new key and a used damper, locktite it, torque it properly, then check the torque once a week for about two months. But if they're toast, don't waste your money on replacement parts because they're just going to explode.

[WAWalker]

A loose crank pully isn't going to bend your crank. It will round off the end of the crank, damage the keyway, and timing belt drive sproket. And if driven long enough take out the thrust bearings.

 

If the keyway will still hold a key it can be fixed. Just throwing new parts on isn't always going to be a permenant fix depending on how bad the crank is worn on the end were the crank pully rides. And the timing belt sproket will need to be replaced.

 

I make a repair kit that will keep the crank sproket centered and spinning true so that this problem dosen't come back to bite you. As long as the crank bolt is properly torqued when installed. Improper torque on the crank bolt is the root cause of this problem.