Numbchux Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 OK, just checking in. so I've been driving the heck out of my '88 wagon with the 4" AA kit in it. unfortunately I've only had it offroad a few times, couple of my local watering holes, and one trip to the iron range offroad park (see crawl 4 cure thread) where, as most of you know, I gnarled 2 rear axles... well, as most of you have figured out, the rear lift design is tough on the rear axles, it really pushes them to the limit, and at the time, I had my suspension adjusted up almost another full inch (big no-no!) and many reman'd axles. I've been in touch with shadyirishmen (a great businessman, contrary to popular beleif) about reengineering the rear design some to drop the diff more. I love the clearance I get from leaving the suspension arms up tight against the body, but the diff needs to come down more. I'd really like to get a block for the front bracket of the diff, but we'll see how that pans out. he's suggesting 1" blocks under the suspension arm mounts, and 2" at the mustache bar (as apposed to 0 and 1 respectively). and I hear they've now unified the leading rod/tranny mount blocks into one beefy block! and something about a skidplate, but I haven't heard about that in awhile either, I'll let him comment on that as much as he'd like. well, the biggest problem I have with axles is CVJ/DOJ boots tearing, losing grease, then ball bearings fall out, then joint no worky...but the 2 napa reman'd axles' (the other predated my owning the 2 parts cars from which the other axles came) cages broke. making for an explosive failure, rather then it just not working anymore...well, JcWhitney has a 'stronger' 'more durable' etc. universal CV boot, that was about the same price as a boot kit from napa, and since I was ordering some other things from them, shipping wasn't that much more. so I'll be trying that too. anyway, I go to college in Duluth, my girlfriend lives in Duluth, and my parents live in the Twin Cities, so I make the 3 hour 'commute' from the cities to duluth every couple weeks, plus a trip to Des Moines for Midwest 3, so I've put on about 5000 miles (well, the dash says about 3500....but...) so it's about time to change the oil, and check for bent/twisted/loose/busted.... anything. the only problem I found was I had a mustach bar bolt fall out, but I blame this solely on myself, I stripped one of the 2 in the installation, and instead of drilling/tapping, I had my buddy weld the mount onto the block, and the bolt onto the mount and only used the other bolt. this has worked fine, except the one bolt in there likes to work itself loose, it fell out in the campground at midwest 3....oops! anyway, time for an oil change and new valve cover gaskets (they leak like sivs), and try to track down the source of my coolant leak (I think my water pump install is leaking too....crap) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingbobdole Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 sounds good:-\ so in 5k... how many axles total have you gone through? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 21, 2005 Author Share Posted August 21, 2005 well, the front ones that were in it had been driven on for a couple thousand miles with torn boots, so they failed pre-lift, but post-abuse...but not including those, 1 on each side on the front, and 2 in the back on the same side, the second was the only oem subaru axle that I had problems with, and it turned out the ball's and cage had slipped off the inner race and fallen into the boot, I reassembled it at camp in about 3 minutes... so 4 total, not including the origional 2. and now I have another oem one in the front that's working much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oddcomp Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 i still think someone needs to adapt the porsche cv joints to the suby like the toyota people do on their extreme front ifs lifts.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrack Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 I say 2" - 3" blocks for the diff carrier and mustache bar. F the diff clearance, that's not the advantage of doing it this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 That's for the back, AA already makes blocks to go under the mustache bar (which I prefer, I've seen a mustache bar take some nasty gouges from rocks that otherwise would've hit the axles.), I want something for the front of the diff. so I maintain the awesome clearance in front of the rear wheels (which is where I bash it most) but still drop the diff for easier axle angles you would like a shim block for the front of the diff?, how tall would you like it? , I (SJRLIFT) have plans to make a block to go between the front of diff and the 4 bolt plate that has the 4 bolts welded to it , to install the block it would require those 4 bolts removed, (grind the weld) install the block and 4 new longer bolts, I would recomend putting the bolts in with the nuts up to to make it smoother underneath. I was thinking of making 2" spacer first, what height would you like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 22, 2005 Author Share Posted August 22, 2005 you would like a shim block for the front of the diff?, how tall would you like it? , I (SJRLIFT) have plans to make a block to go between the front of diff and the 4 bolt plate that has the 4 bolts welded to it , to install the block it would require those 4 bolts removed, (grind the weld) install the block and 4 new longer bolts, I would recomend putting the bolts in with the nuts up to to make it smoother underneath. I was thinking of making 2" spacer first, what height would you like? w00t!!!! that's EXACTLY what I want! I'm thinking 2" would be perfect! then I could leave my 1" blocks on the mustache bar, and be a ton better! keep me in mind when you get it figured out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 ... I could leave my 1" blocks on the mustache bar, and be a ton better!! I'd be tapping some new threads and replacing that 1" block on your drivers side of the mustache bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oddcomp Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 That doesn't make any sense makes lots of sense.. at least the usage of it someone thinks sjr has a 1 up on the aa lift so there for sjr scores one point over the aa lift having not seen nor driven a rig with either lift kit.. i cannot comment on how they perform even tho i am realllllly close to aa in terms of miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadyirishmen Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 Score AA +1 SJR +1 if I can't make it and SJR can thats the shizzle. I love it when a companies can accomodate another companies product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 makes lots of sense.. at least the usage of it someone thinks sjr has a 1 up on the aa lift so there for sjr scores one point over the aa lift having not seen nor driven a rig with either lift kit.. i cannot comment on how they perform even tho i am realllllly close to aa in terms of miles One up for what... making a drop plate to the rear diff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezapar Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 One up for what... making a drop plate to the rear diff? My belief is that super high rear diffs are for the birds. There's no reason to have 14 inches. Your Y-pipe has to clear first. Basically, your rear diff be no higher than the height of your Y-pipe. We've all heard the hyper extended axle argument. I swear my rigs always did best with the torsion bar and front struts dialed down to minimum. It frees up travel, keeps the wheels on the ground better. (my opinion.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 My belief is that super high rear diffs are for the birds. There's no reason to have 14 inches. Your Y-pipe has to clear first. Basically, your rear diff be no higher than the height of your Y-pipe. We've all heard the hyper extended axle argument. I swear my rigs always did best with the torsion bar and front struts dialed down to minimum. It frees up travel, keeps the wheels on the ground better. (my opinion.) I totally agree. Wheels on the ground is the key. I'm still confused as to what is beeing kept score of Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 23, 2005 Author Share Posted August 23, 2005 Unless you dont clear the unibody enough for BIG TARS! yea yea, I know, I gotta start cuttin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 yea yea, I know, I gotta start cuttin! It's coo; mine still rub :-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezapar Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 I agree Zap, but I still don't want lift blocks hanging down in front of my rear wheels...and this isn't the same as cranking down a torsion bar, I still have the same suspension flex as stock, it swings more forward than it would otherwise, but it's just as flexy. it is hard on axles at full downflex, but me and shadyirishman are looking to solve that. and I, too, think it's awesome that SJR can, essentially, work together to make an awesome lift combo!! I know the way around all of your ea82 rear lift problems. Get a Brat or a hatch. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 24, 2005 Author Share Posted August 24, 2005 I know the way around all of your ea82 rear lift problems. Get a Brat or a hatch. lol you find it (here!), I'll buy it..well, I would have when I bought this one, now I don't have any money. I do like them better than the wagon, but I've sort of become attached to these, and rust-free subarus at all are hard to come by here, I can't really be picky about my $150 subarus! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EYE_WHY Posted August 29, 2005 Share Posted August 29, 2005 Quick question about the AA lift or any lift kits in that matter. Is highway speed (70-75mph) still attainable and safe? One of my buddies seems to think that after a 4" lift, the wagon becomes unsafe to drive on the highway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted August 29, 2005 Share Posted August 29, 2005 Quick question about the AA lift or any lift kits in that matter. Is highway speed (70-75mph) still attainable and safe? One of my buddies seems to think that after a 4" lift, the wagon becomes unsafe to drive on the highway. I drive 75-80mph for hours on end. 3" BYB lift, 29" tires, lots and lots of rust. It's a matter of comfort really. I dont just start out at 80mph; I have to work upto it as I get more comfortable with the ride. Usually about an hour into the trip if nothing has gone wrong I kick up the speed and start making good time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazmataz Posted August 29, 2005 Share Posted August 29, 2005 i don't have a comercial lift, i have a custom do it yourself suspenions lift of about 5" with 29" tires and i don't have any trouble at 70-75 mph, hell i think i may have been at 80. if you don't do at least 70 mph in wash. you get ran over so i have been at this speed for miles. Quick question about the AA lift or any lift kits in that matter. Is highway speed (70-75mph) still attainable and safe? One of my buddies seems to think that after a 4" lift, the wagon becomes unsafe to drive on the highway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 29, 2005 Author Share Posted August 29, 2005 Quick question about the AA lift or any lift kits in that matter. Is highway speed (70-75mph) still attainable and safe? One of my buddies seems to think that after a 4" lift, the wagon becomes unsafe to drive on the highway. These lifts *mostly* retain stock suspension geometry, enough to make for a very carlike ride...the only thing keeping me from 3 digits, is lack of power, I spend alot of time driving back and forth from my parents place in Minneapolis, to my college home in Duluth (about 3 hours), speed limit's 70, and let's just say I'm not the slowest one on the road the only thing that makes it scary, is my disconected sway bar, and bad shocks, it kinda wanders, and bounces, but that's not a result of the lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted September 1, 2005 Share Posted September 1, 2005 w00t!!!! that's EXACTLY what I want! I'm thinking 2" would be perfect! then I could leave my 1" blocks on the mustache bar, and be a ton better! keep me in mind when you get it figured out! here it is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted September 1, 2005 Author Share Posted September 1, 2005 here it is sweet! how tall is that? I'm tight for cash now, but just applied for a couple jobs and will be settling down for school so this is pretty good timing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted September 1, 2005 Share Posted September 1, 2005 sweet! how tall is that? I'm tight for cash now, but just applied for a couple jobs and will be settling down for school so this is pretty good timing! 2" tall in picture , also have 1" tall or can stack them up to get 3" or 4" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted September 2, 2005 Author Share Posted September 2, 2005 2" tall in picture , also have 1" tall or can stack them up to get 3" or 4" I'll be up for a 2" in a month or so...I'll be in touch!! Thanks!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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