Official Lift Kit Group Buy

[kingbobdole]

ok...

I dont know how mtnman did it so well, maybe I'm just an idiot but I had quite a few issues to note... First, back to what I said... check over the instructions again and make sure they are totally right as some things didnt come to pass.. like the suggestion that you MAY need new rad hoses... yeah, you need them. Also you might note to disconnect the battery to engine and trans to frame grounds.... broke those. I got the car apart with no issues other then the EVIL strut rod mount on one side, but I must say that the rear of the car goes togather like a dream, very simple. Only suggestion I have back there is to like maybe weld the lower new bolts going in throught the back side... its a PITA to get a wrench back there once the struts in place. other then that rear rocked... got it in in like 30 minutes... The front however.... well now here we go. First the engine lift blocks worked fine. A little convencing and it went right in. My big issue and I also called you for fun and probably sounded disgruntled, but I was working on it at the time... was the transmission crossmember mounty thingy.. looks like you changed the design recently and welded them all togather so instead of 6 you have 1 really big thing. Issue A.... the metal that held them all togather was too low and hit the mount so I had to beat the S&$#t out of it. Second... THEY WERE NOT LINED UP. Other people doing thins should make sure and take the mount all the way out and match it up to the crossmember piece and make sure they line up... it took me forever to realize that it wasnt just me that the bolt wasnt threading... the hole simply wasn't close. I drilled REALLY big holes in the one that didnt line up(on both sides) and beat the living h311 out of them. Ok, other things... I thought that you had made this to correct the camber issues in the kit... is that true and I didnt put mine in right? or is my Super Camber here to stay? I had no clue how to put them in... theres no picture or anything in the instructions of how its supposed to go... so I thought about it(didnt work) and guessed. I also had an issue with the steering link... I took the bolts out and lined up the slot on the car side and put the bolt in then went to the other side and the end of the link just gets to the slot... about 1/2" too short or so. Also, did you need the old one back? I also need the shifter guard plate dropper thingys as well, I didnt get any. Ok, for those of you reading that got this lift and are now either thinking I'm nuts or winey, or are scared. Dont fret... I LOVE how fricken HUGE my wagon is sitting in the garage, very nice. I also might have gotten the defects somehow, so the rest of you are ok... and the parts are VERY NICE looking, very well made... good kit for sure, just needs a little tweak here and there to make it AWSOME.

[Qman]

Make them tight, real tight not excessively tight, tight to were it feels good and then after about 200 miles retighten them and then in maybe 600 miles check them over one more time and they should be good. Or a good reference would be to use a subaru manual if you have one and use there torque specs.

I would suggest that you check them after each wheeling trip. After the first five times for sure. Then after every five or so after that.

 

Anyone that does this type of modification to their vehicle needs to understand that they just made a high maintainence vehicle. This requires special attention and servicing by you on a constant basis. Your safety and the safety of others depends on it.

[DrKrazy]

Well I haven't gotten mine yet... ???? :-\ but your starting to scare me a tinsy bit there Phil...sounds like you have had several issues, and few others have had issues also. Steering link doesn't sound good, and shouldn't have to modify anything on the lift (in my brain), should come ready to bolt in with all the correct parts. I was expecting the lift to bolt on with alittle fuss here and there, but was expecting the hardest part to be cutting and bashing the fenders for the tires..hope mine comes soon and without these problems. Any chance of a tracking number on mine Shady?

Still can't wait to get it though, hope mine has all the correct parts needed. Sure it's not bad but I get frustrated fairly easyily...

[FirstSubaruGLwagon]

ok...

I dont know how mtnman did it so well, maybe I'm just an idiot but I had quite a few issues to note... .

 

Is this going on the 87 wagon?

[FirstSubaruGLwagon]

Well I haven't gotten mine yet... ???? :-\ but your starting to scare me a tinsy bit there Phil...sounds like you have had several issues, and few others have had issues also. Steering link doesn't sound good, and shouldn't have to modify anything on the lift (in my brain), should come ready to bolt in with all the correct parts. I was expecting the lift to bolt on with alittle fuss here and there, but was expecting the hardest part to be cutting and bashing the fenders for the tires..hope mine comes soon and without these problems. Any chance of a tracking number on mine Shady?

Still can't wait to get it though, hope mine has all the correct parts needed. Sure it's not bad but I get frustrated fairly easyily...

DITTO

[mtnman38]

YO ok man here is what I did

 

First about the rear strut issues put the bracket on the top of the strut titen then use a sissor jack between the swing arm and the big rubber stopper and jack it right into place

 

Yep myou defenitly need to replace the top rad hose but you can shorten the bottom and reuse it

 

As for the grounds and battery I always do that first when I do any motor work.

 

I also had a h3ll of a time putting these peices in . In the directions it says that you need to remove the tie rod end from the control arm wich I thought it was a torshen bar . once I removed the torchen bar from the control arm it went back like butter

 

The front camber strut towers have a R or a L on them for right and left and the car has to roll some times before the camber will go back to normal

 

To get the front blocks in I used the same sissor jack between the body and the engine gradle ( one on both sides) then slowly jack into place

until lined up

 

and finaly to get the (tie rod ends/ torshen bar) back to the hole I just put a ratchet strap hooked up to the back wheel and the front wheel and pulled them toghether until the holes line up again and vwallla

 

hopfully this makes it easier for all and I will be happy to answer any questions further

 

 

ok...

I dont know how mtnman did it so well, maybe I'm just an idiot but I had quite a few issues to note... First, back to what I said... check over the instructions again and make sure they are totally right as some things didnt come to pass.. like the suggestion that you MAY need new rad hoses... yeah, you need them. Also you might note to disconnect the battery to engine and trans to frame grounds.... broke those. I got the car apart with no issues other then the EVIL strut rod mount on one side, but I must say that the rear of the car goes togather like a dream, very simple. Only suggestion I have back there is to like maybe weld the lower new bolts going in throught the back side... its a PITA to get a wrench back there once the struts in place. other then that rear rocked... got it in in like 30 minutes... The front however.... well now here we go. First the engine lift blocks worked fine. A little convencing and it went right in. My big issue and I also called you for fun and probably sounded disgruntled, but I was working on it at the time... was the transmission crossmember mounty thingy.. looks like you changed the design recently and welded them all togather so instead of 6 you have 1 really big thing. Issue A.... the metal that held them all togather was too low and hit the mount so I had to beat the S&$#t out of it. Second... THEY WERE NOT LINED UP. Other people doing thins should make sure and take the mount all the way out and match it up to the crossmember piece and make sure they line up... it took me forever to realize that it wasnt just me that the bolt wasnt threading... the hole simply wasn't close. I drilled REALLY big holes in the one that didnt line up(on both sides) and beat the living h311 out of them. Ok, other things... I thought that you had made this to correct the camber issues in the kit... is that true and I didnt put mine in right? or is my Super Camber here to stay? I had no clue how to put them in... theres no picture or anything in the instructions of how its supposed to go... so I thought about it(didnt work) and guessed. I also had an issue with the steering link... I took the bolts out and lined up the slot on the car side and put the bolt in then went to the other side and the end of the link just gets to the slot... about 1/2" too short or so. Also, did you need the old one back? I also need the shifter guard plate dropper thingys as well, I didnt get any. Ok, for those of you reading that got this lift and are now either thinking I'm nuts or winey, or are scared. Dont fret... I LOVE how fricken HUGE my wagon is sitting in the garage, very nice. I also might have gotten the defects somehow, so the rest of you are ok... and the parts are VERY NICE looking, very well made... good kit for sure, just needs a little tweak here and there to make it AWSOME.

[mtnman38]

Nope 1992 wagon

 

 

Is this going on the 87 wagon?

[Shadyirishmen]

I can't stress how much you need to call our office and ask for ALBIE (503) 543-5154. His brother and him are the ones who build the lifts and install them, Albie is the one to talk to because he is the lead tec. He will walk you through your installation and repair anything that doesn't fit correctly. The hardest part to installing the lift is the tranny crossmember it is hard to get it aligned. Just call our office and everything will be resolved.

 

IF you need help CALL (503) 543-5154

[Numbchux]

I too would like to add my $.02 about the kits. QMan is very right, it's a high maintenence vehicle now.

 

also, it is a bolt up install. I don't have the one piece tranny xmember/leading rod blocks, I still have 6 individual blocsk which were hard enough to install.

 

also, make sure you have them on the right side, this is just a guess, maybe it's painfully obvious, but maybe not. if they're not ligning up at all, make sure you've got 'em on right.

 

don't fret, it's a great kit, and quite easy to install, but some cars just work better than others. my engine crossmember shifted quite a bit while I was installing it, and those blocks where a total pain!!!

[MorganM]

Let there be no mistake that absolutly no kits offerd are a COMPLETE bolt in and drive away kit. Not just the AA kit; all kits.

 

People whine and complain about prices of all the kits I've seen. They would blow a gasket from the price of an all inclusive, bolt on, lift kit.

[kingbobdole]

also, make sure you have them on the right side, this is just a guess, maybe it's painfully obvious, but maybe not. if they're not ligning up at all, make sure you've got 'em on right.

 

don't fret, it's a great kit, and quite easy to install, but some cars just work better than others.

 

Agreed... I actually pulled mine all the way out with the mount and torsion/strut rod attached to compair the two sides since I thought that was what I had done. I had gotten the two sides in right, but they just simply didnt line up at all. The mount plates on the ground in front of me with the tranny lift plates on top... the holes were not in the right place, I had to customize them... I know that theres no such thing as a cheap bolt on kit, but come on, I had to make the part work, there was simply no other way. Thats my $.02... I just think for the money the parts could have been right.... but I still feel like I got a good deal, and most everything else went on with no issues.

Also, Dr. Krazy... once you get your lift if you have any troubles, PM me and I'll get you my cell number and if you need advice I can help you... My other issue why it took me so long because Noss(blownbimer) parked his turbo wagon in front of mine to lower it and after the axle fell apart... he turned my G rated neighborhood into a strictly R rated F-bomb infested neighborhood... So I stopped the lift to go get his ride back into one three wheel drive piece:rolleyes:

[kingbobdole]

Another question,...

What up with my kick stopper now? is it removal time, or is there something I can do to keep it?

Thanks

[TurboXT]

Aw man, too bad I didn't get in on this! I need to lift the brat!

 

Rick

[DrKrazy]

Also, Dr. Krazy... once you get your lift if you have any troubles, PM me and I'll get you my cell number and if you need advice I can help you... My other issue why it took me so long because Noss(blownbimer) parked his turbo wagon in front of mine to lower it and after the axle fell apart... he turned my G rated neighborhood into a strictly R rated F-bomb infested neighborhood... So I stopped the lift to go get his ride back into one three wheel drive piece:rolleyes:

 

TA-DA!

(Came today Woot!)

Very nice looking work, looks like all the parts are there (better manual would be nice, as said earlier). Haven't even attempted to get the GL legal (damn oregon title) yet so not sure when I will actually do it. Gotta pull the engine and reseal + swap to EFI and a new clutch also. But might just call on your help Phil when it does come time or even for the EFI swap. Or the lift might just go on first and everything else can wait hehe...Looks good, Thanks Shady

 

Edit: Wife had another surpise and managed to get the state to issue us a new title! Just a quick VIN inspection and that was it..should see the title in a few weeks!

[Shadyirishmen]

Please DO NOT CUT YOUR BUMP STOP / KICK STOP. I forgot to edit that part from the instructions. The instructions were edited from the High clearance lift which requires you cut the bump stops.

 

 

 

Another question,...

What up with my kick stopper now? is it removal time, or is there something I can do to keep it?

Thanks

[Shadyirishmen]

Also another note your strut extensions should bolt up perfectly. They are made on a jig and our test fitted, if you have an alignment problem you may have the extension of the wrong side. There should be an L and an R stamped on the top of your front strut extension that will tell you what side of the vehicle it should be on.

[FirstSubaruGLwagon]

Hi Shady,

Just woundering if there are tracking numbers on the shipments?

[Shadyirishmen]

Your lift is was one of the first ones shipped you should receive it shortly. Unfortunately, I am no where near the shop this whole week and all of the tracking numbers along with shipping receipts are there, and no one else would there would no what to look for. If you don't receive your lift by Friday, write me back and I will get the tracking number.

 

 

 

Hi Shady,

Just woundering if there are tracking numbers on the shipments?

[kingbobdole]

Also another note your strut extensions should bolt up perfectly. They are made on a jig and our test fitted, if you have an alignment problem you may have the extension of the wrong side. There should be an L and an R stamped on the top of your front strut extension that will tell you what side of the vehicle it should be on.

Aww crap.... where exactly is it printed at? I totally missed that. Also by kick stopper I really ment the anti pitch rod, the rear engine mount bar thing on the top... its too short now. Also, MTNMAN... what did you do about the shifter? Mine pops the cover off when I go into 1,3,5 or 4wd lo.

Thanks and I hope my crazy "I really don't know what the hell I'm doing" helps others:drunk:

[DrKrazy]

Thanks and I hope my crazy "I really don't know what the hell I'm doing" helps others:drunk:

 

You know it does! I'm in the same boat here, so going to run into all the same problems +/- a few so I'm watching this all very closely, might have time to get it on in the next few weekends if I'm lucky.

[Numbchux]

Aww crap.... where exactly is it printed at? I totally missed that. Also by kick stopper I really ment the anti pitch rod, the rear engine mount bar thing on the top... its too short now. Also, MTNMAN... what did you do about the shifter? Mine pops the cover off when I go into 1,3,5 or 4wd lo.

 

my pitch stopper was fine.....don't know what's up there...

 

there's a nut on the bottom of the shift linkage, that holds it to the unibody, the hole is actually slotted, loosen the nut, let it adjust for the extra length, then tighten it again. should work much better.

[mtnman38]

Chux is on it he knows I never had this problem with the shiftboot.

 

you could always screw it down if chux idea does not work

 

 

Aww crap.... where exactly is it printed at? I totally missed that. Also by kick stopper I really ment the anti pitch rod, the rear engine mount bar thing on the top... its too short now. Also, MTNMAN... what did you do about the shifter? Mine pops the cover off when I go into 1,3,5 or 4wd lo.

Thanks and I hope my crazy "I really don't know what the hell I'm doing" helps others:drunk:

[Numbchux]

oh yea, and about the rad hoses. the passenger one is fine (little more strain, so if it's old and crispy, it might break, mine did....but it reaches fine), and the driver side one could be made fit. here's the deal:

 

the two ports that need to be connected (tube from water pump on block, and radiator) actually get closer together, so you could trim the stock hose to fit, using the bend that's already in it. I found that when I did this, the hose had shrunk in the middle (220k miles and almost 20 yrs could do that), so I took the piece that I had cut almost exactly to size to NAPA, and told them I needed to replicate that, but a bit bigger diameter, and he looked in his book, and found something with a nice bend in it, I had to trim it too, but it worked perfectly.

 

be creative, there's nothing too hard...

 

also, about the pitch-stopper, maybe try a jack & wood block on the oil pan to tilt the whole thing back a bit, that's a trick someone suggested for changing the clutch (to align engine and tranny easier), I did it when I did my clutch, and didn't take the jack off until I had the pitch stopper back on. it worked fine!

[northguy]

I'll admit that I didn't read every post in this thread (time constraints), and I'd like to know if you have a kit (3") for an 89 XT6 that would require minimal modifications. Current cost would be appreciated (shipping to AK, slow boat - not in a big hurry) also.

[Shadyirishmen]

EA82 style of lift 4" X 3" inch or 4" x 4" lift about $375 or $390 + $14 for shipping.

 

I'll admit that I didn't read every post in this thread (time constraints), and I'd like to know if you have a kit (3") for an 89 XT6 that would require minimal modifications. Current cost would be appreciated (shipping to AK, slow boat - not in a big hurry) also.