Lawsonmh15 Posted October 11, 2005 Author Share Posted October 11, 2005 Lawson, thank you!, it's been pouring out so I couldn't even open the hood, nor could I find my service manual. This is what makes this forum so great! I just bought some to give a try. No problem man. Looked the same on my '97 EJ22 with 4EAT? I used teh small vac hose in the middle of the TB and the seafoam sucked right in just fater idle! Worked good but I recomend the FULL dose or the effect is short lived. My CEL also came on but I had Autozone shut it off for FREE! Sweet Jesus man! I hope you are just kidding. What code are they shutting off? If it's a PO130 (o2 Sensor), you may be over-doing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger83 Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 I tried Seafoam yesterday by flipping up the PCV hose and pouring it in. It worked fine for about 1/4 can, then seemed to stop taking it in. No matter, I poured the rest in the fuel tank. The stumbling I had at light throttle when warm is much reduced, so I'm pleased. I was thinking of disconnecting the airbox and putting it directly into the throttle body from there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 I was thinking of disconnecting the airbox and putting it directly into the throttle body from there? Please do not act on those thoughts. . . There are three problems with that plan: 1) with the airbox disconnected, the car will not run, or will run very poorly, as you are effectively disconnecting the MAP/MAF by doing so, and the ECU looses a lot of it's real-time data (used to adjust mixture) 2) There is a danger of fire due to spillage. 3) I stand with Josh (Legacy777) on this one. Do not use solvents in the venturi area (that is what the airbox feeds into) of the Throttle Body. there are long wearing sealants in there, that may be washed away, causing more problems down the road. there was also a comment about using a full can of Seafoam and a possability of it causing the O2 sensor to go out. I do not see this happening, unless the O2 was already on the way out from age and the crap thrown at it before the Seafoam was used. In my '92 I used a full can through the small vac hoses on the TB. No problems with the O2, Milage went up, and the car was (and continues to be) a lot "peppier". This was a second application, as the first was half a can, and I was not sure how long the application lasted. The car choked out at the halfway mark and I threw the rest in the fuel. A few months later, I tried again to be sure I kept the good running that I had gained. Since the car did not choke out at all, I have to assume that the first application worked very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger83 Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 Thanks. Any theory on why it stopped taking the SeaFoam in through the PCV valve? It's puzzling as the initial application seemed to be sucked in pretty quickly. There's no indication the PCV valve is not functioning properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
123c Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 Sea Foam is the greatest stuff ever, it has a use for everything... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger83 Posted October 22, 2005 Share Posted October 22, 2005 OK, inspection of the old PCV valve revealed the cause - it was gunked up. Replaced it yesterday and did the SeaFoam thing. I think a third of a can is about three PCV tubefulls. Hesitation is COMPLETELY gone! Yay SeaFoam! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 How did you get it in the PCV without the car stalling? I tried going thru the PCV but the car stalled and died everytime I removed the hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger83 Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 How did you get it in the PCV without the car stalling?I tried going thru the PCV but the car stalled and died everytime I removed the hose. Revved the engine by hand as I poured it in, slowly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 I did the same thing and most of the seafoam just blew right threw. As the bottle says to let the car idle , and thats because the seafoam wont have time to adhere to the carbons on the cylinder walls. Oh well Ill try again. Thanx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger83 Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 Then pur in just a little at a time. After the first few gulps I found it would idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green96GT Posted October 31, 2005 Share Posted October 31, 2005 Re: Seafoam tranny stuff. Does it work as well as the fuel system stuff? Also, is it safe for the front diff, as well as the tranny? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted October 31, 2005 Share Posted October 31, 2005 Seafoam makes a specific ATF product called trans tune. It should not be used in the differential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ringe Posted November 12, 2005 Share Posted November 12, 2005 Seafoam makes a specific ATF product called trans tune. It should not be used in the differential. How does that trans tune stuff do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 Not really sure. I swapped out my AT before I had a chance to try the stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quartus Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Here's from Seafoam website about lenght of time to leave in oil before changing based on pre or post addition: 1. As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise, pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity, including filter. Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, and then do your oil change service – Lube, Oil & Filter (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbocharged & Supercharged applications where oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, and leave those residues that NEED CLEANING. 2. As an after service additive into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (based on mileage since last oil change), put the same amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase as described above, and then regularly monitor your oil for color and clarity. Set a predetermined schedule for checking the oil condition on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. Monitoring of the oil for color and clarity will tell you when it is time to do an oil change service. NOTE: Do not exceed 3,000 miles without changing the oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 You did realize this thread is 4 years old right? But since we're on this topic. I use about a two foot section of 3/16" i.d. vacuum hose connected to the evap purge line nipple right on top of the intake manifold right by the throttle body. It's the easiest one to get to, and if you come prepared with your own extra length of hose you can put the can on top of the radiator and dip the hose into the can just enough to slurp up the seafoam, while you balance the throttle speed with your free hand so the engine doesn't stall. Do a half can, and kill it, then watch the smoke show. Just be sure to face the front of the car upwind from the exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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