common probs with drilling wheels?

[fiater]

Just ordered a set of 6 lug by 5.5" wheels and mudders, and was wondering, for those who have taken this route, if any probs show up. Things like not being exactly centered on the hub, warped rotors, off-center lug nuts... Thing is, I think too hard about this stuff. 5.5 " = 139.7mm, which is very close, but not exactly 140. This makes each opposing hole on the wheel 0.15mm off. Will this cause a prob, or am I being too finicky?

 

Also, my 86 Brat, which I just lifted 4" PK kit, has the struts (front) that you can raise one inch by turning the two bolts on the bottom spring seat. Is this just for emergencies, or is it OK to get that extra inch all the time. Don't want to go through joints each month, you know.

 

Also, I saw somewhere that some Brats have rear height adjustment through access holes in the bed. Mine has the holes, but no bolt to turn. Anyone know of a way to get an extra inch back there?

 

Thanks,

 

Carl

[Numbchux]

well, I haven't had any personal experience with 6-lugs. but I know someone who converted his wagon to 6 lug (he didn't drill out the wheels...btw), and used the subaru lug nuts while marking the holes for the other 4 studs. and now a couple of his wheels aren't centered (just on the rear drums, and I think he was going to convert to discs....so it may be fixed). These were also nice toyota alloys, so the lug nuts had big centering washers....(I'd recommend converting your hubs to 6-lug, not the other way around)

 

The adjustable struts are great. but it will be much harder on your CV's, I'm not sure how much you've been following my AA lift...but I've eaten a number of CV joints in the last few months, and the front end design is very similar to the BYB kit, so I blame it primarily on my adjusted struts.

 

and...I don't know anything about brats.....hope someone else chimes in for that!

[MorganM]

I think what you want is to drill the wheels out with 2 extra holes so they bolt onto your hubs; correct? If so it's really not a big deal that they are not 140mm perfectly. You simply drill the extra two holes out a little bigger than they need.

 

I found it best to use an old rear drum as a jig. Pound out two oposite oposing studs. Bolt it down firmly to your rim. Now simply drill out the rim through the two holes where the studs used to be. Then flip over the rim, waller out the hole as needed. Now use a really big drill bit to put a slight taiper on the hole so your lug nuts seat properly.

 

The key to getting everything on straight is to use the two holes you did not drill out. Put the lug nuts on those first and tighten them down. The rim will be on your hub straight and studs will be centerd on the holes. Now tighten down the other two and you are set.

 

This is how I did my full size spare rim/tire form an old Toyota 4Runner.

 

========

 

Stock Fuji Lift. General consensus is that its not ultimatly worth the height gained. Extra stress on axle joints. Limits suspension travel. Minimal gain in height for clearance. Lift + big tires is where your lift is going to come from.

[A DOG]

Do not have the front struts adjusted because it will give you bad camber. I'm talking about your wheels looking like this. \ / it will wear the outside of your tire fast. I got my hubs redrilled to the yota six lug. It works great. It costs about 175 total for all the labor and new studs and bolts.

[FirstSubaruGLwagon]

Also, my 86 Brat, which I just lifted 4" PK kit, has the struts (front) that you can raise one inch by turning the two bolts on the bottom spring seat. Is this just for emergencies, or is it OK to get that extra inch all the time. Don't want to go through joints each month, you know.

 

Carl

 

I did that adjustment with my 86 wagon,,, and it gave it nearly a 2 inch lift,,, however, now,, when my wheel drops down into a rut or I go over a speed bump and the strut expands fast and it bottoms out and makes a horrible "CLUNK"

this may be due to the fact they are Monroe replacement struts.

 

Anyway im thinking about , when install my lift kit, adjusting them back down and hopefuly the struts wont "clank" anymore

[fiater]

Thanks peeps. Sorry for being vague, I intend to drill the wheels, not the hubs (want to be able to use my current shoes) My best option is the white wagon wheels from US wheel, they look closest to the soob stockers.

 

Morganm listed the exact process I plan to use, but I was thinking maybe it's better when re-installing to use the holes I drilled, as they should come out exact using the hub for a guide (ie 140mm apart vs 139.7mm) Not sure though, guess I'll just trial and error it. I'll probably have to open up the center bore too, as the chevy wheel I test fitted wouldn't lay flat on the front hubs.

 

As with the strut adjustment, I remember putting them all the way up for max lift, but on the highway, my brat wandered like the drunk simulator car Dodge used to teach high-school kids with (so as not to drink and drive, not how to drive better drunk!). I'm gonna keep them all the way down now, not really worth the height.

 

Thanks for the help, this is by far the best forum I'm in, and I've been in a lot (too many cars...too many projects)

[Numbchux]

(want to be able to use my current shoes)

 

???

 

nothing get's replaced when drilling out your hubs, you just add a couple studs to each corner....

[SkankinPickle]

probably so he can still have the option to switch back to stock rims if he wants later on, right?

 

with the extra weight of the wider rims and tires and having the off set so far away from stock is it pretty easy to bend control arms/ tie rods??