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1986 brat r/f ball joint


rayban1
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have a BFH ready to pound away at the lower crossmember to get it to free from the hub. might be a neater way to do it, but that's how i get it. the slot that accepts the ball joint in the hub has a slit in it i believe too and once you get the bolt out you can wedge a chisel in there and tap at it to help free it up as well. other than getting the BJ out of the hub it's straight forward (rust doesn't count!). if you suspect any rust on bolts then spray a day or two before you start with liquid wrench or PB blaster (don't use WD-40, not nearly as good).

 

replacement is up to you. i like doing everything around the same time to keep track, but i keep my vehicles for ever too so i know i'll pat myself on the back for the reliability. if you want to save a couple dollars then don't, if you plan on keeping the car awhile then figure the other will fail at some point, might as well do them both so you don't need to go through the procedures again. it's not a failure threat as there is usually noise or wobbling around turns associated with a bad ball joint so it's not a reliability or safety concern if you don't (so long as you notice when the other starts to go bad).

 

you sure it's the ball joint? mine have never made any noise when they start going bad, but i'm sure there are different failure modes.

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ha ha. no sweat. not familiar with a brat but pretty sure i'd just replace the tie rod ends. just mark it well so you can install the other exactly the same way, i believe it threads on so maybe you can count number of turns or just mark exactly how far it is threaded with something you'll be able to see later.

 

you definitely want to replace these immediately, good items to replace on older cars. if they fail while driving that is a very very dangerous scenario. reminds me, i keep meaning to replace them on my 220,000 mile XT6.

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