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twisted sleeves...


mcbrat
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the twisted sleeves....

cylinders 1 and 3 of a ea81 block...

 

you can just barely see the access hole for the wrist pin on the left side of the sleeve cut-out...

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8142&sort=1&cat=530&page=1

 

and this is the other cylinder, where you can really see it better...

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8141&sort=1&size=medium&cat=530&page=1

 

this was a block I tore apart after it got a rod knock... the rod bearing was totally gone!!!

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From Wikipedia

 

The coefficient of linear expansion for aluminum is 23x10^-6 m/C

 

The coefficient for iron is 12x10^-6 m/C

 

When it gets really hot, the aluminum will expand more than the cast iron sleeve, and it could get loose. That's likely how they got it in there in the first place.

 

Why did the bearing fail? Did it overheat? That would be the first clue as to what caused the sleeves to rotate.

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i guess they are a heated pressed fit, with green locktite.

everything wears out over time... even subarus

 

nice one mcbrat, i've never been able to blow up an na subaru.

 

well, wasn't actually me. this came out of a '83 Brat I bought and parted. only had 86k on it.... I heard it run briefly, but with a bad exhaust leak. it had gas tank issues, so I had it towed home then stripped it, so I never heard it run again until I put the motor into the 87 wagon I used to have, then had to pull it back out because of the knock.

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I blew up an 84 EA81 - I'm convinced that what does it is a combination of bad oil pressure, and insufficient cooling. The rod bearings go if the oil pump's aren't replaced about every 100k - 200k it seems. Depends on maintenance of course, but after 200k, I've not seen an oil pump that can hit decent pressure - even after a reseal. The 84 developed a rod knock, and shot the rod through the top of the engine... unfortunately it had a digi-dash, and once the oil pressure was low enough to light the idiot light (started flickering at idle), the damage was already done. I resealed the pump and the light went out, but about 5k miles later the rod went at about 170k. In my case the problem was made worse by flooding the engine with muddy water on several occasions, and then driving home before changing the oil. I am 100% sure that had I simply replaced the oil pump when I got the car at 145k, and possibly the radiator as well, it would still be going.

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