buru Posted September 30, 2005 Share Posted September 30, 2005 Fairly new to the board, and I need all your all's soob expertise. Ok, so I got a 92 Loyale that's had code 34:banghead: since I got it a few weeks ago. Car runs really good except for being a little sluggish now and then till you hit about 35 mph. It's almost not even noticeable. But I'm one of those people that just has to fix it. So I've read about a thousand old threads on the EGR Valve and solenoid, and there seems to be a lot of conflicts on this issue. Has anyone ever fixed this problem by replacing the solenoid and/or valve? I didn't see anything about the problem being solved. So far I checked all the hoses for leaks, checked the connector to the solenoid (although I don't have a meter to test the solenoid), did the test on the valve (ok, and valve is clean), and removed the valve to check for buildup. The ports looked almost completely clean. The car only has 104,000 miles on it, and most everything on the engine is in emaculate shape, even still shiny in some places. So before I replace the solenoid and then the valve if need be, I wanted to know if anyone has had success if solving this problem. If so, I'm hitting the PAP this weekend to find a couple of s/noids and valves. Anybody have an extras if I can't find any? Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted September 30, 2005 Share Posted September 30, 2005 I drove my Loyale for 2 years running a code 34..finally fixed it this Sat..by replacing the EGR sylinoid. I tried used ones and they didnt work so I broke down and got a new one...WOW what a difference.The EGR valve almost never goes bad BTW...only the sylinoid . I temporarily fixed my check engine light with a trusty piece of electrical tape:lol: ..worked for 2 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted September 30, 2005 Share Posted September 30, 2005 I've been told it's usually that vacuum solenoid that goes bad. Put 12v to it and see if it clicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted September 30, 2005 Share Posted September 30, 2005 Code 34 will only come up if there is a problem with the vacuum solenoid or the wiring to it. A bad egr valve wont give a code 34. So unless you suspect bad wiring, change teh solenoid. Be careful if you find one at a wrecker, the hose nipples can get very brittle. If you have to use much force at all to remove the vacuum lines from it, just cut the lines and carefully cut them off the solenoid later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephenw22 Posted October 4, 2005 Share Posted October 4, 2005 I fixed my code 34 with a 68 ohm resistor. (No emissions standards in Saskatchewan, Canada) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted October 4, 2005 Share Posted October 4, 2005 I fixed my code 34 with a 68 ohm resistor. I'd like to try that - does it require a big high wattage resistor, or just a little regular one that you pick up at the electronics store? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted October 4, 2005 Share Posted October 4, 2005 Ohm's Law can help us with the answer to that question. Power can be stated in the formula P= Volts(2)/ Resistance or E2/R= 144/68=2.1 watts. Getting a 5 watt ceramic resistor would probably be your best choice. Radio Shack or a good electonics store should have that value or one close to it. It doesn't have to be exactly 68 ohms. If you used a 120 ohms you could use a 2 watt carbon resistor safely but the physical size will be about the same as a 5 watt ceramic. I don't think the system would alarm using a 120 ohm resistor but I can't say for sure. It would be interesting to see where the alarm threshold is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msteel Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 If you replace with a used one, be aware that they can check out good, but fail when they get hot. My purge control solenoid did this. I took it out with the engine hot, and it wouldn't do a thing. Some minutes later it worked fine. Put it back in with a vacuum pump on it and it konked out after the engine ran a few minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephenw22 Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 I just went to the electronics store and bought some 4W, 68 Ohm carbon-film resistors. I used one in the egr solenoid, and one in the purge control solenoid. A ceramic resistor would be ideal, but we'll see how long these ones last. Right now, they're just stuck into the wiring harness clips. If I get around to it, i'll crimp them in permanently and use a little heat shrink to make it look nice. 120 Ohms might be a little too high, but I'm not sure. I think what the service manual said was that 50-100 ohms was "normal". Resistors are cheap, though, so you can get a few different types and see what works best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill90Loyale Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 so I broke down and got a new one...WOW what a difference. Bucky92- Please describe the difference. Thanks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 I tried the resistor idea last night. Radio Shack didn't have a 68 Ohm, so I got a couple 50 Ohm and a couple 10 Ohm. This should let me try a lot of different combinations. So far, I only had time to try one combo. To try and get rid of the 34 code, I stuck in a 50 and 2 10's in series for 70 Ohms. Code 34 is still there, even after clearing, but the car runs smoother. I had two spots where there was a lot of hesitation during acceleration that have almost disappeared, and the idle isn't as rough as it was. Will try some more combos over the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted October 8, 2005 Share Posted October 8, 2005 That should have worked. I suspect that you may have a wiring problem to the ECU for that circuit. Did you measure the resistance of the coil to see what the resistance is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephenw22 Posted October 8, 2005 Share Posted October 8, 2005 you'll probably need to clear the ecu codes. check the subaru repair manual for instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted October 9, 2005 Share Posted October 9, 2005 Have already cleared the codes, didn't help. The resistance reads 37 Ohms. I packed my manuals away for a move, but would bet that 37 Ohms indicates that it's ok, so Cougar, you may have something there. Dropping 12 volts across the reisistors, so the circuit's complete. I just stuck the resistors into the connector, so I'm going to put them in a little better and see what happens, maybe they're losing contact sometimes. (update) No luck. Soldered resisters to a spare plug, cleared codes and confirmed the 5 flashes. Drove about 5 minutes and code 34 is back. Next step - check the wiring back to the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 I'm not sure how the circuit is wired but if you measure 12 volts on both sides of the resistors with the meter common referenced to ground then that would mean there is no current flow through the resistors and a possible open wire in the circuit back to the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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