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EJ-series water pump longevity


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Hey everybody, I'm still pretty new to the EJ subaru engines, so this may be a stupid question, but here goes...

 

In about two months, I'm going to be doing a bunch of service on the EJ22 that's in my 86 wagon as well as the EJ25 in my mom's 97 Outback, including timing belt changes and replacing most of the seals on the front to the engines. I had heard somewhere that the water pumps on these engines like to go out at about 150,000 miles. Is this a common thing on these cars, or do the pumps usually run longer than that without any trouble? Both cars are creeping up on that mileage, so I'm wondering if I should replace the water pumps while I'm in there, rather than having them fail in a few thousand miles and having to take everything apart again. I would especially be worried about the EJ25 since their head gaskets are so sensitive, and overheating might cause them to go.

 

Thanks!

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For the amount of work it takes to get to the water pump, usually as long as your there, you replace the water pump, timing belts, seals and oil pump and oil seals, then you are good again till the next 150 K.

 

 

It sounds like alot of expense as you are doing it all at once, but just imagine having to do that labor to get to the parts three tims (belt, seals, and water pump) al of which usually require some maint in 150K

 

nipper

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Hey everybody, I'm still pretty new to the EJ subaru engines, so this may be a stupid question, but here goes...

 

In about two months, I'm going to be doing a bunch of service on the EJ22 that's in my 86 wagon as well as the EJ25 in my mom's 97 Outback, including timing belt changes and replacing most of the seals on the front to the engines. I had heard somewhere that the water pumps on these engines like to go out at about 150,000 miles. Is this a common thing on these cars, or do the pumps usually run longer than that without any trouble? Both cars are creeping up on that mileage, so I'm wondering if I should replace the water pumps while I'm in there, rather than having them fail in a few thousand miles and having to take everything apart again. I would especially be worried about the EJ25 since their head gaskets are so sensitive, and overheating might cause them to go.

 

Thanks!

 

Anytime I rip into an engine, I replace anything that is surrounding the parts I replace. I.E. Belts, gaskets, hoses...I'd say for the small cost of a new WP, and seals, I'd replace it while I'm in there. It does not add much to the time involved, and the peace of mind is worth it.

 

Plus, it REALLY sucks when you have to remove EVERYthing you took off 2K miles later. Not saying it WILL go, but It usually seems like that:)

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For the time of what its worth, you're better off replacing the water pump at the same time when you replace the timing belt.. because if in within 10,000 miles the pump goes/leaks etc then you have to take the timing belt off again!!! just not worth it, and for less hassel is to replace the pump and belts/seals at the same time. Pump aren't that expensive, its AU$104

Cheers

AP

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and oil pump?????

 

Tthe oil pump should last the life of the engine, but you should service it when you change the timing belt. That means new front crank seal, O-ring, tighten the five screws that hold the backing plat onto the pump, and reseal it when you put it back on. You can do this every time you change the TB, or every other time. Your choice. The oil pump lasts so much longer than the water pump because there is no torsion on the drive for the unit. With the WP, the drive is a shaft that is pressing sideways against the back of the TB. with the oil pump, there is no sideways pressure. It is driven by the flat spots on the crankshaft, against matching flat spots on the drive gear in the pump itself.

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On my 95 EJ22 Impreza, the water pump SIEZED at 58k.....For what it's worth :)

 

Oh yeah, I am surprised I didn't cook that engine. I simmered it pretty really good though, and it never felt quite right afterwards.

Kevin, curious as to whether you'd done a water-only type cooling system flush at any point prior to the failure?

 

I've been reading stories about pump/seal failure shortly after water-only type flushing. Apparently running the pump (even for a short period) without the lubricating agents of the coolant does a number on it.

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Thats interesting blitz.

 

I usually drain about 3 litres of coolant and refill with demin water. Drive for a day and drain and refill the full volume with fresh coolant. Ain't that flush enough?

 

Not much of fan of the caustic flushes - unless there is a real problem.

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Out of lazyness, I've always just done a regular, frequent petcock drain followed by a refill with 50/50 (demineralized of course) ...never had any cooling-system related probs with that schedule.

 

Growing up, I used to watch my dad do the whole shebang with the prestone valve spliced into the heater hose, then check the concentration. Seemed like a lot more work than necessary.

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Add another vote for changing it now. A word of advice: use OEM parts for the water pump and belt. We just did the belt and water pump on our '91 Legacy (153K miles) and found a couple of the idlers noisy so we replaced those too. Also, if you have the black cam and crank seals replace them with the brown ones; I've heard the brown seals last forever so if you have them already, no need to replace them. www.1stsubaruparts.com will allow you to replace whatever parts you don't use (you'll still need to pay the shipping, but that's no big deal). Ask for Jason if you call them.

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