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lift q's


Island Roo
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BYB 3". Great kit; sloid and it's had decades of proven usage.

 

Only things not included are a lengthend pitch bar ( I just took mine to a local shop and had it lengthend ). Radiator hoses that fit ( made a custom coupler for the lower hose and I think the upper hose stretches to reach ) An acceptable skid plate adjuster. ( Mine came with nothing to make the skid plate fit but that's an older model; it now comes with a 3" drop block which is unacceptable to me. I'd end up ripping it off on rocks. I think bracket at the bottom where it bolts to the crossmember brace would be a much better design. )

 

Wish I had skids from unibody upto the rear subframe holding brackets. They tend to bend when smacked against big rocks.

 

carnage_crawl4cure_006.jpg

 

Brackets get chewed up also.

carnage_crawl4cure_007.jpg

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It's true, the BYB/PKD lift has been proven over years of use...but speed and ease of contact was by far the deciding factor for me. If PK had been easy to get ahold of, and half as fast as AA is, I would've had a BYB lifted wagon back when we first heard of this guy in oregon making lifts through Les (previous owner of one of AA's test vehicles).

 

bottom line, AA lifts are awesome! the company's great to work with, easy to get ahold of etc. BYB just can't compete, not here in the US, unless he's made some drastic changes in the last 9 months.

 

don't forget SJR! I bought a diff shim from him so I can go higher...also very fast, great product, all easily done through paypal on his website: http://www.sjrlift.com

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I've got a Ozified 3/3, and it's pretty ghetto. I was unfortunate enough to get one of the first aluminum kits, which consisted of aluminum bar stock run through a chop saw. All the bolt hole were haphazardly drilled and frequntly off center. None of the blocks were finished in any way; ie rough edges/sides. Almost all of the blocks had to be ground down or reamed out to fit the car.

 

Then there's other factors like the sheer imposibility of reaching PK, or the lousy intructions. It also took nearly 3 months for me to get my kit, and I have not yet recieved my steering shaft deposit.

 

Now, all that said my lift does what it's supposed to. It's great that PK was making lifts in the US when no else was. But times change, so buy a AA kit.

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I've got a Ozified 3/3, and it's pretty ghetto. I was unfortunate enough to get one of the first aluminum kits, which consisted of aluminum bar stock run through a chop saw. All the bolt hole were haphazardly drilled and frequntly off center. None of the blocks were finished in any way; ie rough edges/sides. Almost all of the blocks had to be ground down or reamed out to fit the car.

 

Damn; gald I got an old steel version.

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My 4" Ozzified kit was very well done, no issues what so ever. The directions were a little short but adequate. Drop subframe insert blocks bolt up, done.

 

Some people just aren't all that good at/willing to figure things out.

 

Island Roo I'll "loan" you my spare lift kit if I can get one ordered from PK for January

Those AA kits seem to have good support but I can't stop looking at the rear tire clearance to close to the wheel well for me. I would wait a year or so till they get past the R+D stage.

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anyone have a pic of the rear clearance issues?

 

nope, no issue....

 

ok, I know what you're talking about, but I don't know why people still think it's an issue. so I'll post this pic again, it makes it pretty obvious.

 

Yes, the rear tire is closer to the front of the wheel well than the back. but it can't get any closer...I've put a big red dot right where the trailing arm pivot point is, the hub cannot get any closer to this point, therefore the tire clearance doesn't matter there.

3242PICT1772-med.JPG

 

and here are a couple articulation pics of the two rear tires of my car right after the lift.

upflex:

3242PICT0442.JPG

 

and downflex:

3242PICT0441.JPG

 

notice how the tire never get's any closer to the front, I have rub marks on my mudflap, and a few nicks in the tire from the top of the fender, but it's never touched the front, and it never will.

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believe it or not, i had rubbing in the back, still do. It's not from the front though, its from the rear of the fender. I trimmed a inch off of it, and it still rubs, but not that bad and only on the really ruff stuff. i havn't got it to rub on the front of the fender, but its not going to so...

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believe it or not, i had rubbing in the back, still do. It's not from the front though, its from the rear of the fender. I trimmed a inch off of it, and it still rubs, but not that bad and only on the really ruff stuff. i havn't got it to rub on the front of the fender, but its not going to so...

 

I went wheeling a couple weeks ago with 7 people, 2 dirtbikes, 1 ATV (with a picky driver....didn't want a passenger) and my wagon....4 people, plus extra gas for the bikes, tools, spare parts/tire....I was rubbing like mad, but only in the back

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it's right there in my sig...;) I measured them as just shy of 27...some tire calculators call 'em 27.7, some sites say 215/75/r15 = 28...so I call 'em 28s

 

yes, I realize it's not the biggest tire anyone's ever run, but I haven't done any trimming, just a little bashing.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Hey numb,,,

Ever have your front tires rub when you turned in cornering?

 

I just got 28.2"= 225/70R15 tires,, I know I will regrett it, impuse buy thing.

Anyway I can tell just by looking I will have to mod the rear fender, maybe the front too.

 

oh yea...all the time, but not hard, just a little noise, hasn't done any damage yet.

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